spitfirebill wrote: #1 You don't lay concrete, you pour concrete. #2 You lay pipe.
I worked for a home builder as "the cleanup kid" in high school. Some guys would mention "the cement truck" and others would ream them out.......it's concrete......LOL
Datsun310Guy wrote:spitfirebill wrote: #1 You don't lay concrete, you pour concrete. #2 You lay pipe.I worked for a home builder as "the cleanup kid" in high school. Some guys would mention "the cement truck" and others would ream them out.......it's concrete......LOL
I work with a bunch of civil engineers. Cement-concrete is one of their favorite rookie reamers. Also, its not dirt, its soil.
For a driveway, cut or tool Control joints every 10', place Expansion joints every 50'. Water cure (after it is placed and finished, setup sprinklers to keep it wet for several days) for maximum strength.
Expect some shrinkage cracking.
Hal wrote:SVreX wrote: This thread is interesting. Curtis73 actually never asked for advice on how to do it, nor opinions on whether he should. Which is why I didn't offer any (although I've placed thousands of yards of concrete). He asked for websites with tutorials.And he needs to look for info about two problems he will have. Based on his other post about the driveway he has a slope that is steep enough to cause erosion problems. And from living in the area for 20 years I know he will have a problem with what we used to call "frost heave". about two times a winter the ground will freeze to a depth of 6-8" and then thaw fairly rapidly.
I agree. Well, almost. He will have more than 2 problems! 
I was just noting how anxious everyone was to offer their opinion, when he didn't actually ask for it.
SVreX wrote: I agree. Well, almost. He will have more than 2 problems!
Wouldn't be GRM without it 
I learn to temper my questions based on the predicted outcome
I think I can accomplish it if I have the proper resources; e.g. a friend who knows how, a website or book to give me the hard info, and guys like you who point me to those resources.
Fortunately, I want it done "right", but not necessarily pretty. It doesn't need to have a flawless finish, it needs to be durable, drivable, and plowable. I often marveled at how true masons know exactly when to trowel, when to cut edges, and when to milk up the finish. I basically want a straight place to drive that doesn't wash out onto the road when it rains (like what happens now.)
SVreX wrote:Hal wrote:I agree. Well, almost. He will have more than 2 problems!SVreX wrote: This thread is interesting. Curtis73 actually never asked for advice on how to do it, nor opinions on whether he should. Which is why I didn't offer any (although I've placed thousands of yards of concrete). He asked for websites with tutorials.And he needs to look for info about two problems he will have. Based on his other post about the driveway he has a slope that is steep enough to cause erosion problems. And from living in the area for 20 years I know he will have a problem with what we used to call "frost heave". about two times a winter the ground will freeze to a depth of 6-8" and then thaw fairly rapidly.
Well yeah. What did you expect?
Nice vest, McFly.
I just hope the real reason isn't just a convenient way to get rid of a few "people problems."
Appleseed wrote: I just hope the real reason isn't just a convenient way to get rid of a few "people problems."
I tried that before on a garage footer. The body decayed, the wall collapsed, and that whole side had to be re-poured.
In reply to curtis73:
That's why you need to plan ahead.
Dump the body first surrounded by lots of lime, give it about two weeks, then pack and pour. Or use the Margie method: drill with an earth auger and stick 'em in vertically.
'Shoot, Shovel, Shut Up'. 
Curmudgeon wrote: In reply to curtis73: Dump the body first surrounded by lots of lime, give it about two weeks, then pack and pour.
Read the book. Interesting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Wayne_Gacy
Zhit rollz downhill. this may be helpfuil
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