In reply to 4cylndrfury:
it's a taper fit, yes that'll hold it on, if it won't go on like said, clean all surfaces well, retry
In reply to 4cylndrfury:
it's a taper fit, yes that'll hold it on, if it won't go on like said, clean all surfaces well, retry
4cylndrfury wrote:Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:when I worked at the bike shop, we often had to deburr and ream bearing surfaces in steel bike frames, which left a lot of shavings around...steel shavings and inner tubes dont mix well. One day, the owner bought an obscene quantity of condoms for the shop: Place a large, powerful magnet inside a condom, wave condomey magnet over the work area to pick up shavings, turn inside out to remove magnet, tie off the condom keeping the metal bits inside, throw away. Kinda weird, but works great4cylndrfury wrote:I thought I was a genius for sticking my chuck to the side of the press with a magnet until I set it on the bench for a second and it collected all the metal filings from all the E36 M3 I just drilled. Disregard if all you do is non-ferrous hole-making.Grtechguy wrote: my key is on a big magnet on the side of the pressgenius...I have some hard drive magnets just laying around that would be great for this
a ziplock baggie works also, just with fewer odd looks
Re. Morse taper chuck installation:
Clean the male and female tapers with solvent. I usually use lacquer thinner, brakleen or acetone. Fit the chuck over the taper. With the chuck jaws retracted into the body, I give it a solid whack with a big chunk of lead - like 5#. A lead hammer is good, a deadblow hammer is OK, a big steel hammer and a piece of aluminum is very good.
Chuck should stay on.
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