NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
8/1/16 8:23 a.m.

So, buddy picks up a 69 Mustang Fastback project.

Serial # tag on the dash behind the windshield is missing.

The tag can be re-made if he can show that his paperwork and the Vin stamped into the front inner fender match.

Problem is someone in the past replace the front inner apron in the engine compartment. The new panel was brazed in place.

The bad news is that the braze bead covers the last 3 numbers that are stamped into the inner fender.

Trying to think of a way to retrieve the last few digits. Other than some very tedious sanding is there a chemical way to do this?

Is the front inner fender really the only place that the serial # is stamped on these tubs?

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy UltraDork
8/1/16 11:01 a.m.

does he happen to have the metal data plate

bmw88rider
bmw88rider GRM+ Memberand Dork
8/1/16 11:12 a.m.

Here are the 3 locations on a 69 mustang. If it's typical brazing, they should be able to heat it and try to wire brush it off if it's truly brazing.

Woody
Woody GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/1/16 12:21 p.m.

Check the bottom of the front and rear seats to see if there's a build sheet. There was also a metal tag under the burlap on one of my '65s.

dean1484
dean1484 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/1/16 5:04 p.m.

Is it stamped on the rear frame somewhere?

Ojala
Ojala GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/1/16 10:00 p.m.

If your friend cant find any other tag, there is an acid technique to retrieve the vin even when it has been ground off or otherwise defaced. It is not something that you should try to do yourself. The impression often only lasts for a few seconds while its wet. Fortunately that is all I need to sign off on the paperwork so the DMV can reissue a vin tag or issue the vehicle a whole new vin. Here in Fort Worth we just charge a flat $40 fee for the auto theft inspection and we absorb the cost of any acid test or extra work in that fee. I would recommend that your friend contact the auto theft unit or task force to have an inspection performed.

foxtrapper
foxtrapper UltimaDork
8/2/16 4:57 a.m.

Brass has a lower melting temperature than steel. Melt the brass off.

Or carefully use a sander/grinder to remove the brass down to the steel, revealing the last numbers. It's really not that hard nor does it take that long. Well, with the fender removed that is.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
8/2/16 6:56 a.m.

The only one I see is the one on the inner fender. Grind and sand to see if it can be retrieved is the answer. Torch would have been nice to just melt it off and wire brush.

I do have a plumbers acetylene tank and torch, might give that a try.

Gasoline
Gasoline SuperDork
8/2/16 12:02 p.m.

Get under the dash and see there is a build sheet taped to the wiring harness.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
8/2/16 12:36 p.m.
Gasoline wrote: Get under the dash and see there is a build sheet taped to the wiring harness.

Noting like that is going to be found. This car has been rode hard and put away wet by several hack owners and "restoration" shops. There are actually two serial numbers on the car. One on the LH inner fender that corresponds to a big block torino, and the one on the RH inner fender that looks like it matches the paperwork.

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