1st and foremost - its entirely possible to get an A series spridget engine into the trunk of a model 3.
This is a "race" engine with a fancy 7.25 quartermaster clutch.
I dont know the history of the flywheel and clutch, but I do know the ring gear sits back about 1/4" beyond where the bendix can engage it:
If you know spridgets then you know the ring gear normally sits very close to the oil pump cover.
Anyway, replacement tilton setup is probably a grand. I dont want to do that. I think these are my options -
- Find a used setup (working on this)
- Weld an OEM ring gear on the engine side of the flywheel (This seems super janky with welding / balancing / etc on I'm assuming different metals)
- Try to find a longer bendix or weld an extension on the current bendix (slightly less janky but still probably a no-go)
- Cut away the backing plate an mount the starter right to the trans bellhousing. There are still 8 bolts that connect the engine / trans together, I think this might work but I'd have to hack up my only backing plate (and its a racy aluminum one). This would move the starter back about the 3/8" I need.
Anything else I'm missing?
Based on the location, and the back cut on the flywheel teeth, I bet that is designed for a starter that comes in from the transmission end. What did it come out of? Some sort of pure race car kind of thing?
Late models with tiny clutches often have the starter back there out of the way of headers and dry sump pans and such.
Long term simplest is probably finding a close to stock setup, becuase you won't need weird stuff when it breaks at the track.
1) Is there a spacer between the flywheel and the crankshaft?
B) What happens if you cut the starter mount off the plate and bolt the starter directly to the bellhousing?
There is no spacer between flywheel and crankshaft. I'm tempted to cut the aluminum backplate but was hoping to hear from a voice of reason. I've got to double check my measurements but I think the thickness of the backing plate is exactly the offset I need to get it to the ring gear. Replacement back plates are $140 + shipping from UK in case I F something up.
The normal spridget starter actually has the same mounting point but the bendix extends PAST the ring gear and "pulls in" towards the starter - these starters are no longer use for racing as they will crash into the ring gear under braking. I dont know the history on this setup - Imma little irked that I got this, but lets not get into that ;) I do agree that making this a one off makes it harder in the future.
thanks all.
I understand the aversion to cutting the bearer plate. I think I would research other starter options pretty hard before I cut! The modern "super starters" are all a similar core with different mounting ends screwed to the electric motor, so there may well be one from a F.Ford application or such that will bolt on and work. Someone had something on here that started it without cutting the bearer plate.
Thanks, I've got a super starter but I think it will be a can of worms trying to find a bendix that will work. I wish there were still mom & pop starter shops these days.
Fyi, the bendix looks like this.
If the gear extended to the retaining ring I'd probably be all set.
I think an Isuzu trooper starter was a gear reduction replacement that has a standard "push" arrangement that might be worth looking at?
edit:
https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/mg-midget?_pos=1&_sid=d935428c5&_ss=r
http://www.mg-cars.net/mg-midget-sprite-technical-bbs/isuzu-trooper-starter-motor-2013040218300510170.htm
don't know if this solves the problem
