Well... It's staying darker later
I crawled underneath to look at that balance bar. As Dark Monohue mentioned "bushings imply movement" so I made a mark on the diff with my finger and set the brakes. It didn't move...
The best I can tell, when I pull on the e-brake handle it basically provides a direct input to the left wheel. It's that tension applied to the left wheel that should move that arm and pull the right brake. Seems interesting, but if the arm isn't moving then I think it's safe to say that the right side was never releasing.
So I sprayed the beans out of it with WD40
Ok, with the WD40 applied (and a bit of wrench movement) the arm is free moving again. Unfortunately "balance" wasn't restored. As you can see, the left side is still resting in its "released" position and the right side is still pulled.
I know the e-brake can be adjusted at a point just forward of the fuel tank, so that's my next stop.
I backed that nut all the way out and locked it in place.
When I went back to check on the drums, the situation hadn't changed much (visually). Except when I pulled on the cables slightly with my fingers, I noticed that there was a bit of slack now. After playing with things a bit I kind of learned that neither drum is ever going to have its arm completely resting on it, but as long as the cable isn't tight then those arms will balance themselves out and neither brake will be applied.
To test this, I clicked the e-brake handle out one click at a time and came back to check to see how freely both wheels spun. The e-brake begins to engage around the 5th click and the left side started to apply first. By 9 clicks there was significant tension, and by the 12th click, neither wheel would move.
This is a VAST improvement over yesterday (where I could force the right wheel to spin when I pushed on it hard enough).
I pried on the adjuster in the right brake and brought it up two clicks. Afterwards, both brakes applied evenly.
WIN
Back in the driver's seat I was met with a firm pedal, but when I started the truck I found I could still get my foot to the floor if I applied enough pressure. This lead to more thinking. The back brakes are adjusted to what i think is correct (based off of previous experience). But this pedal seems like it needs another centimeter of travel if I'm going to keep it from hitting the floor under hard braking...
I crawled up under the dash to have a look
My initial instinct was to adjust the pedal height up a bit, but it looked like it was adjusted up as high as it can go... That led me to looking at what could be stopping it from going up a little further. Which led me to seeing that the brake switch was adjusted deeper than it needed to be.
It's nice that it was still dark out because I could see when the brake lights would activate. I was able to get that centimeter of pedal travel I wanted and drove the truck up and down the driveway to test things.
Backing up, I had no problem dragging the brakes in my driveway (it was raining)
Going forward I could lock them up at 1st gear speeds.
ok, WIN! (I'll drive it in to work today to test things further)
I had a few minutes left, so I went after a few other issues. First was that hose that kept bursting:
Yeah, that was long overdue. I can see another hose near the same area that's going to suffer the same fate shortly. Luckily all parts are on order through Toyota, but I don't have an ETA yet (I only had this one because Rock Auto is flippin awesome).
Next up was the oil pressure sensor.
If you remember I scrunched it a bit with the transmission install. I don't remember what I smashed it against (the starter, probably) but it hasn't worked since and I was worried I had damaged it, or at the very least needed to repair a wire...
luckily it was something much more simple"
The list is getting shoooooooorterrrrrrr!