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GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/29/16 7:33 a.m.
Knurled wrote: Old thread, but: How large/small are these things?

Here are the dimensions of the Davies-Craig EWP80:

https://daviescraig.com.au/media/735/1427107750.EWPSelectionGuideTechSpecs2009.pdf

This pump doesn't need to be big...it's just the impeller part of a traditional pulley-driven water pump with an electric motor on it. That C-MAX electric pump is interesting.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/29/16 7:34 a.m.
Knurled wrote: In reply to DaveEstey: I used to overheat my RX-7 at track days if I kept revs over 6000rpm. Later, when rallycrossing, I noted mass overheating at high revs. Went to a little 3" crank pulley and overheating stopped. Pumps have efficiency ranges, past their effective speed they just make vacuum bubbles rather than moving coolant.

Another thing you can do to reduce cavitation is increase system pressure with a higher-PSI radiator cap...you need all your coolant lines to be in real good condition for this!

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/30/16 7:44 p.m.
GameboyRMH wrote: Another thing you can do to reduce cavitation is increase system pressure with a higher-PSI radiator cap...you need all your coolant lines to be in real good condition for this!

Not so much as you'd think. I used to think that water pumps would make 50psi or so of head pressure thanks to an old Circle Track article on water pumps. Then I got some hard data from someone who measured it, who had found over 100psi before the thermostat opened.

I'm not thinking that 15psi or whatever is going to make much of a difference there

The Ford's water pump impeller is tiny. Really tiny. Like, smaller than the compressor of the Subaru EJ255's turbo that I just replaced.

bentwrench
bentwrench Dork
3/30/16 8:42 p.m.

Warmup requires full flow to distribute the heat to the cold parts and prevent hot spots.

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