¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 9:34 a.m.

I've been snowboarding on the icy garbage that passes for snow here in PA for about half my life now (oh E36 M3 I'm old!) and my trusty Burton Indie 158 has been with me for 8 years of that and it shows- a cracked edge, lots of dings and gouges in the base, etc. It has gotten to the point where I can't push any faster because the board is too far gone.

Is replacement, or repair better here? In proper GRM fashion, we're looking for best performance per dollar. I like my bindings, I'll keep those regardless, but I can't imagine fixing this thing will come cheap. Intended use is mostly for riding after work once a week, so it's always going to be icy hardpack for the most part.

rob_lewis
rob_lewis GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 9:44 a.m.

First of all, I'm a Texan who's been snowboarding a few times, but not regularly like you. So take my advice with a grain of salt.....

Sounds like with the conditions you are usually in, it'll be rough on a board regardless. As a result, fixing your current board rather than buying a new one, since it'll get torn up, would theoretically be the better option.

However, boards can be bought cheap. Especially if you have your own bindings. How stuck are you on the Burton? How quickly are you looking? If for this season, that would be harder, but at the end of the season, I'm willing to bet you could find a heavily discounted board for well under $200. Most of your big box sporting goods places (Dick's, Oshmans, etc) will blow them out to get them off their books. The smaller shops might have last years still in stock that they're willing to sell cheap.

If you're looking for this season, find out how much it would cost to get yours fixed vs. replacement. That'll be the biggest factor.

-Rob

RossD
RossD UltimaDork
1/29/16 9:45 a.m.

I'm in the same spot. My wife wants to go snowboarding but my mid 90s wood core Burton board maybe keeping me back.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 9:51 a.m.

Preferably I want to go one way or the other by next Wednesday

I need to find out what it costs to fix, you're right. I like the way this board handles a lot, and obviously I'm very used to it at this point, but I'm not going to pay $2xx to fix it if good lightly used or new stuff can be had for a similar price. I guess my main question here is how good the current cheap end of the market is? The Indie wasn't exactly a top quality board when it was brand new.

rob_lewis
rob_lewis GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 9:51 a.m.

For example:

http://www.boardsforless.com/15sn1.html

Looks like you could get a whole package (board, boots and bindings) for as little as $99....

-Rob

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 9:54 a.m.

In reply to rob_lewis:

Sure, but most of that cheap stuff is (I assume) flexy garbage that isn't going to do a damn thing for me other than chatter off into the trees when I'm trying to make a turn on an icy double diamond.

rob_lewis
rob_lewis GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 10:01 a.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: In reply to rob_lewis: Sure, but most of that cheap stuff is (I assume) flexy garbage that isn't going to do a damn thing for me other than chatter off into the trees when I'm trying to make a turn on an icy double diamond.

Haven't had a ton of boards. I assume, however, that boards have advanced like skateboards have. There are a lot more "companies" out there that end up utilizing the bigger guys and just slapping different graphics on them.

However, sticking to more name brand stuff wouldn't be a bad idea. I did a quick search for closeout snowboard PA and found quite a few shops with 2014/2015 models (like K2) for under $200.

Sounds like you don't like your current board all that much. If it's more than $50-100 to fix it (and it'll take time), might be worth biting the bullet and going newer.

-Rob

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 10:19 a.m.

Fixing is easy in this case.

If the crack is on the side, open it up a little (with a butter knife or other). Squirt in Elmers glue (this glue is used to hold the screws for bindings). Clamp. Let sit overnight. Should be good as new. The white elmers glue will maintain flexibility and still hold the crack from spreading.

The base is easy. Get yourself a stick of P-Tex. It is a base repair polymer. You light the end of it with a lighter and melt it into any gouges in teh base. Cut off the excess with a razor blade.

Get yourself a cheap iron. Buy some all purpose ski wax. Melt the wax by dripping it onto the base. Then melt the wax unifomly with the iron.

Use a piece of plexiglass to scrap off the uneven layer of wax. Find a medium strength brass bristle brush. Brush the board from one end to the other.

Boom done.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 10:26 a.m.

http://www.amazon.com/STAGE-STGT-011-Stage-Ski-Tuning/dp/B00P45HZBS/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1454084467&sr=8-18&keywords=ski+tune+kit

Get this kit. It has the best reviews and has all the basics (including the Ptex).

Just use a cheap CLEAN iron from goodwill or wherever.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 10:27 a.m.

P.S. Send pics of cracked edge. Is it the actual steel edge or just a slight delamination of the top "cover" of the board?

If it is the steel edge, that is a little more difficult. However, there are youtube vids on how to do it.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 10:30 a.m.

In reply to wvumtnbkr:

Steel edge- there's delamination along with it, on both the top and bottom layers.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/29/16 10:31 a.m.

Poop. That's a little more difficult. Youtube has some cool videos on how to fix it. However, that might be time for a new board....

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 10:37 a.m.

I think I'll drop by the local ski shop and see what they think and what they've got on the shelf. I could use some new boots too, mine are even older than the board

DanyloS
DanyloS Reader
1/29/16 12:49 p.m.
  1. Since you like the board so much take it to a shop for an estimate. (Though since it's the season they may have a long backlog of repairs to get through) if you decide to keep it consider a boot/binding upgrade it will make a huge difference

  2. If you can make it through this season on your current equipment wait until summer to buy new things. Right now you're easy fodder for buying at marked up prices

  3. Consider a rental package for the remainder of the year. (It's only two months February & March). This gives you a chance to test drive new equipment and possibly switch out boards and bindings to see what you like best (it could also work towards a credit on new equipment)

  4. If you're going to get a new board get boots and bindings. 8yrs is a long time and technology has moved on. While it doesn't seem like it boots wear tremendously and bindings weaken. Old-new boots/bindings won't interact nearly as well with each other than a matched new set.

  5. Check for demo days at local mountains too.

Good luck and if you can hold out wait until summer to make your purchases

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Dork
1/29/16 1:09 p.m.

In reply to DanyloS:

I can definitely hold out until summer if I need to- I'll just continue having the excuse of "my board is beat to E36 M3" when I get my doors blown off in the race league, that's all

DanyloS
DanyloS Reader
1/29/16 1:33 p.m.

The tough part is remembering to buy during summer. By then your mind has forgotten snow and is thinking about spending $$ on warm weather fun

NGTD
NGTD UltraDork
1/29/16 1:37 p.m.

Don't forget that skiis and boards get "cycled" just like the airframe of a plane. Over time the core will lose strength and get floppy.

I would be looking for a new board. Closeout season will start anytime now. It's almost February. Most people buy before Christmas.

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