I realized I should put the link to more pictures in the ad itself
https://www.flickr.com/photos/159999126@N07/with/26776227279/
Edit to add VIN WBSDC9308J2791093
I should apologize. I threw this ad up in a hurry and hadn't put much thought in it besides to get it out there. So, let me add more detail so you don't have to go through several links to find out
compression numbers cyls 1-6 in order-165,184,172,174,170,175. Leak down test all cyls in green but no exact %'s given.
I bought it in September 2010 with just over 91000 miles on it. It has been stored winters but driven regularly throughout the rest of the year.
It currently has just over 132000 miles on it. It runs perfectly well, but I never drive it anymore since I now have a work van that I commute in every day and have for 12 months
When I bought the car, It came with zero previous paperwork. I asked. It was being sold at a mazda dealership in St Louis and I was told it was from a collection of the owners friend that was selling a couple cars for money for a missions trip.
The SLS was deleted by a previous owner. At some point adjustable swaybars had been installed front and rear. It already has the conforti chip. The front seal on the transmission went out so I had the independent shop I use for this car replace all the transmission seals as well as the clutch (though the clutch was strong) while he was in there(at about 100k miles)
It has a small oil leak near the front of the engine that my mechanic traced down to the oil pan gasket. I have never had it repaired because it has not gotten worse since I bought it and it leaves about a half dollar sized spot when it sits for a month.
The odometer gears went out during my ownership and I replaced them myself, with about 200 miles at most driven without the odometer working
I am not aware of the timing chain and components being replaced. When I had the valve cover off at 120k miles to adjust the valves I looked over the upper guides and the chain itself. Everything looked and felt solid and there was no discoloration on the guides.
I did replace the strut cartridges with spax adjustable pieces, as well as springs, but I ended up with dinan knockoff springs because the spax springs were so low I couldn't get in my garage without scraping my converter.
The fuel tank was replaced with an oem one because I was underneath the back of the car and I reached up and busted a piece of the seam off of the fuel tank(due to rust).
The passenger front door has some rust bubbling the paint at the bottom front outside corner. The average person doesn't notice it until I point it out.
The license plate lights have the typical rust, three of the four screw taps still exist. I have the passenger outside one rigged up so the light doesn't fall out on that side. After that happened I brushed it with evaporust and I quit taking it out in the wet.
It has a billy boat exhaust, and an aftermarket free flow catalytic converter and stock exhaust manifold. The a/c operates and has R134a in it. I had it charged and is now ice cold.(4/15/18)
The front seats could use recovering, but there are no rips or tears. the drivers seat has about a 3 inch long spot where the cord has worn off it leather covering. The handbrake cover looks as if someone always rested their hand on it.
I have replaced all of the vacuum lines under the hood as well as most of the hoses. I replaced the ucas and lcas as well as the center link and end links and the idler arm. I replaced the heated washer nozzles and the hose with new washer hose. I also replaced the windshield washer fluid tank and the coolant tank.
It has a short throw shifter installed by a PO. still has the G280 tranny, and is strong. I have used Mobil 1 15w50 in the engine every 3000 miles and redline MTL in the trans every 30k miles and redline diff lube(the weight escapes me atm) every 30k in the diff starting when I brought it home at 91k miles.
I had the injectors sent to MEPEH LLC and cleaned at about 118k miles.
The dash is completely uncracked and is in great condition.
When I replaced the front control arms and other pieces I used lemforder parts. when I replaced the heater valve I bought the BMW one so it would last.
I have also replaced the heater blower motor so it is quiet. The brake and clutch fluid was fully replaced with synthetic dot 3. I had the panels off the doors and regreased the regulator slides as well as replacing the rubber window surrounds in all doors. The plan was to always have it running its best so I could jump in and drive wherever, whenever, and that's how it sits now. It's just time to let the next enthusiast love it
nice shot man! " />[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZogDQg][img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/37664352635_63d1aac355_z.jpg[/img