I'm getting ready to put in a scissor lift and will need to build wood around it so I can use it for the mustang. I've looked at another set up, but figured I'd see if y'all had some better ideas. My big mustang is going to be parked over it and that is our lowest car.
I just thought I'd throw this question out!
Thanks
At my grandpa's tire store years ago we had hydraulic scissor jacks to lift cars.
We had two 2x10's to lay down next to the jack on each sided so lower cars could be put on the lift without hurting the undercarriage.
No reason you can't just leave them there for parking the Mustang.
jharry3 said:At my grandpa's tire store years ago we had hydraulic scissor jacks to lift cars.
We had two 2x10's to lay down next to the jack on each sided so lower cars could be put on the lift without hurting the undercarriage.
No reason you can't just leave them there for parking the Mustang.
For sure, I am going to leave them. I was just wondering if any one had done anything more creative than I was planning. Thanks for your input!
I'm using two 2x6s stacked and screwed together on each side with some ramps made out of some 1x6s to stair-step onto the big boards.
Once I had the boards and the lift sized correctly for the car, I cut up some 2x4 scraps I had to use as spacers. I use two spacers on each side - one at the front of the lift and one at the rear - and then snug the big boards up to them. That way I know the boards are straight and square with the lift, the car will be centered on the lift, and the boards are spaced far enough apart for the tires. I need to make a couple more sets for different cars, but I haven't quite gotten around to that yet.
Something that I need to do, but haven't yet, is to use some old ratchet strap webbing to make some handles so the boards can be moved a little easier.
This was my solution with my Bendpak lift. The wood platforms are approx 4" tall - they're made from old ocean packing cases for rolling mill equipment. This allows easy transition over the lift, and means that when I feel the front drop from the steel to the wood, I stop and then manually position when I'm out of the car. I like the extra width to give me more tolerance on "missing" the planks
In reply to glyn ellis :
Thanks for the pics, this is excellent
In reply to thedoc :
One small additional comment - you need to space the entry side platform away from the lift otherwise it will catch on the way up and down due to the car pushing it against the lift when you're driving on to it. Not a problem at the other end. I used the bolts for the Bendpak ramps but another option would be a piece of 2 x4 to stop the platform sliding when you drive on to it.
I used 2X10's, but my scissor lift is made differently than the one above......in that it has arms that swing out to lift the car. So, my 2X10s run the length of it plus about 4 ft on each end, that way I can position different wheelbase (FWD vs RWD for example) cars on it without running out of board. I spaced it up with 2X4's about every 2 ft or so, so I'm a total of 3" of extra height over the floor.
The only other problem I had is that I have the lift reversed so to speak....normally they show the lift cylinders at the front end of the lift, I have them at the rear as I mostly do front wheel drive cars and that gives me more room to work up front. On my lift there is a tab welded on the cross tube that you use to move the lift around (rollers on the other end) and a really low (race car) sometimes will hit that tab.....I slide a big piece of sheet metal over the tab so nothing hanging down will catch on it.
I have mine set up similar to MiniDave - Two stacked 2x12s on each side. Screwed together and overlapping in the middle to make moving them a bit less cumbersome (I'll roll the lift into my driveway when I need to lift something like my minivan that is too large to work on in my garage) and with staggered with a chamfer at the drive-on end.
Another addition is a telescoping bar that goes into slots cut into the lower 2x that is positioned against the rollers of the lift. This prevents the ramps from trying to slide forward when you drive on to them.
Picture:
Hey Guy
So excited, got the lift, a friend scored it for me for a great price! I'm working on not scraping when I drive over it. I have to extend my planks. More pictures to follow.
Excellent!
Yes, I added 3 ft to the back end of mine, that allos the car to raise up before it goes over the lift......made a difference on really low cars - now they don't hit the moving tab on the cross bar anymore. Also, lengthening the boards allows you to put cars of different lengths or wheelbases on, and adjust where they sit on the lift for better access.
Adding something so the boards don't scoot forward as you're driving onto the lift is a good idea......I usually have my classic Mini on the lift, so I get a decent run at it, so the front wheels don't move the boards.
Mine have a 30* chamfer on the front edge so that also helps keep them from sliding as I drive on.
Do these lifts mess up your concrete as they go up and down?
You'll need to log in to post.
