preach
preach GRM+ Memberand UberDork
12/29/24 8:36 a.m.

So, I got a compressor a few months back:

Not much of one but suits my needs I guess.

It's about 10' from my hose reel currently connected by a plastic coiled hose.

Red arrows show where the compressor goes (on the right) and the crappy coiled line to the reel.

Hose reel reaches everywhere in the shop but do I want to have a localized connector with or without a regulator (not Warren G nor Clutch) at each work bench? Do I hard line it? PVC or copper?

I am betting that 90% of my power adder tools will be 18v or 12v Milwaukee but air is nice. And I have a whole 50" drawer of them in my toolbox.

Show me your hose!

Apexcarver
Apexcarver MegaDork
12/29/24 9:09 a.m.

Everything i have seen discourages PVC, largely due to shrapnel concerns. The PO of my house/shop put in sweated copper. When you do, ensure you have some angle to it and valves to drain any moisture accumulation. 

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane GRM+ Memberand UberDork
12/29/24 9:31 a.m.
preach said:

Show me your hose!

Giggity!

There's a lot of us here that use the Maxline RapidAir setups.  

I have my compressor up in the upstairs attic of my garage, and run the main drop down by my workbench where I've got the Regulator (as well as Mr. Warren G hanging out often), and a drop. 

DILSYI Dave reviewed here.

A bit more discussion

One more, for flavor

And one thing to note, make sure you get some Milton V type connectors instead of parts-store M type air fittings.. These will make your air tools ~20% more powerful, and the connectors themselves are top notch. 

JMcD
JMcD Reader
1/1/25 1:53 p.m.

+1 to the rapidair stuff.  I installed the 1/2" kit at my prior house with drops at the lift and tire machine and a stationary 60 gal compressor.  I connected everything after the regulator. When I needed higher pressure, I adjusted it (and disconnected other stuff as needed). I even took the rapidair stuff down before I moved and brought it with me to the new house. 

Good choice on the compressor itself. I sold the 60gal to a buddy when I moved and bought a 30gal 120v similar to yours. I don't expect to be doing tires as often at the new house, so didn't really need the extra volume and flow. The portable 30gal is really nice to be able to roll out in the driveway or to other parts of the house for misc projects. 

Two other suggestions:

1. Put a shut off valve immediately downstream of the compressor tank and use it. Lets you keep the tank pressurized and not worry about tiny leaks downstream. It's an extra step when you need air in the shop, but saves you from having to disconnect/reconnect or the compressor having to build air from 0. 

2. Put a ball valve on the tank drain (and use it frequently).

ShawnG
ShawnG MegaDork
1/1/25 4:25 p.m.

I rearrange my shop often enough that I know I don't want permanent plumbing. I have a 100' length of 1/2" rubber air line running along the ceiling of my quonset from the compressor to the heated shop. That's about 50', the rest of the hose is coiled up.

The shop has a reel in the ceiling connected to the rubber air line. The compressor being far away keeps the shop quiet and the 100' of big air line makes an extra reservoir for when I break out the air hammer or the big impact.

If I had to hard-plumb my setup, I'd probably do it in Pex so I don't have to buy into a system designed by some company that may discontinue it by the time I need more parts.

Just my thoughts.

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