Anyone we've set points on a motorcycle? I've got 20,000miles on a 6 volt Honda twin. I've never replaced the points. Don't have a clue. Any YouTubes clips ? Suppliers that aren't crap? The Murdercycle need your love
Anyone we've set points on a motorcycle? I've got 20,000miles on a 6 volt Honda twin. I've never replaced the points. Don't have a clue. Any YouTubes clips ? Suppliers that aren't crap? The Murdercycle need your love
sanyarcosean said:If its anything like a car, a matchbook cover should work tio set the gap...
That's how i always did it...uh, do they still make match books?
It would probably help to know specifically what bike you're talking about.
As for parts, Honda is one of the better manufacturers for supplying parts for older models. It's always worth checking first to see if OEM parts are available. If not there are a number of dealers in NOS parts, David Silver Spares is probably the leading one for Honda: https://www.davidsilverspares.com
Is Dennis Kirk still a thing?
I used to buy parts from them 30 or so years ago.
And Clymer manuals? Probably available on line these days.
Matchbook spacing will get you close enough to run for sure.
Eyeball is about as good as matchbook. Look up the spec and use a feeler gauge. At 20K, yeah, you're beyond time. Also throw a new condenser (capacitor) on it too.
You may want a Clymer manual or similar - on a lot of Honda twins, settings the points also affects the ignition timing on both cylinders and you have to get that somewhat close to right between the two.
Spec for the twin star is .012 to .016 so gap them at .015 this will allow them to run a while before needing readjustments. You'll need to check the timing afterward but it you're in the 14 to 16 range it will be close enough unless last guy timed it with narrow gap.
In reply to 44Dwarf :
How does one check a Honda twin's timing. I've done it on a car, never on a bike.
Same timing light used on a car but you'll need a power source cause most use 12v and your bike is 6 volt so you'll need a car battery. you pull the lower left side cover on most honda twin there on the flywheel you'll see three lines marked TDC, F and Adv for Top Dead Center, Firing (idle speed) , Adv (high speed advance 2800+rpm)
Note i did say most some have oil in the lower left so find a manual or be prepared for oil to leak out.
Found a online word document with pictures! the link will take you to a forum post the download is in 1st post.
As for parts... If you can find OEM NOS points they will last the longest, Both ND and NGK used to sell "Tune Up Kits" plugs, condensers and points both are better then no name kits. Anything made in 2000's will have lower life due to the removal of lead in the alloy that the points are made of. Be happy you don't have carbon brushes in this bike, the removal of lead in those makes them wear out quickly.
Massive thanks. I believe I found some OEM originals on Ebay. Besides the points, and possibly the condenser, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?
Dwell-meter for the win. Gap can be less than precise. Never sand the points as they are coated with a very thin layer of platinum. The sanded points might get you home but the newly exposed substrate is going to erode quickly.
Pete
In reply to Appleseed :
Yes, check the advance unit to make sure it twists and returns. They get neglected and often are found stuck in static position and people think they have carb jetting problems. Checking Valve lash at same time would be good too. You'll need a tappet tool with Square drive i belive and 10mm.
This set is nice it has the common sizes in one package you'll never wear it out. Mine close to 45 years old now.
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