In case you never new, thisis a wankel...or rotary...or 89th wonder of the world lol
http://www.animatedengines.com has a ton of different engine types - IC, Steam etc. Theyre all animated.
Sorry if this is a repost is a repost is a repost
Enjoy
In case you never new, thisis a wankel...or rotary...or 89th wonder of the world lol
http://www.animatedengines.com has a ton of different engine types - IC, Steam etc. Theyre all animated.
Sorry if this is a repost is a repost is a repost
Enjoy
hmm. i watched it for a while, but didn't see it spit out any apex seals. When does that happen? And where is the graphic of someone continuously adding oil?
aussiesmg wrote: None needed at the 24 hour where they won again....
I usually requre the car to last more than 24 hours between rebuilds, however.
Chris_V wrote:aussiesmg wrote: None needed at the 24 hour where they won again....I usually requre the car to last more than 24 hours between rebuilds, however.
You mean more than 24 hours at full throttle don't you?
I've never had a rotary engine problem and I've had several - all under boost.
carguy123 wrote:Chris_V wrote:You mean more than 24 hours at full throttle don't you? I've never had a rotary engine problem and I've had several - all under boost.aussiesmg wrote: None needed at the 24 hour where they won again....I usually requre the car to last more than 24 hours between rebuilds, however.
I've had several, as well. R100, RX2, 2 RX3s, an SA RX7, an FB RX7, and an FC RX7. Fun cars, and if you're single, you can rebuild the engine on your dining room table..
But the thing is for racing use, the lack of internal stresses on the engine means it's really doesn't care if it's spinning at high or low rpms. But in street use, they tend to put a lot more stress on side seals and cooling systems as you make more power out of them. An overheating rotary is an unhappy rotary. And even one small ping is more deadly than a bunch of pinging in a piston engine car.
I've seen stock 12As and 13B N/As go a couple hundred thousand miles. And I've seen modded ones barely make 20k miles. My last one luched an apex seal at 100k miles, and it was stock. Shut it off when I stopped to visit a friend and when I went to start it, it woudn't even turn over. Push starting it only locked up the rear tires when the clutch was let out. Turns out an apex seal had come apart and shoved itself into the rear exhaust port and in the process destroyed the rear aluminum housings, the rear iron housing and the center housing.
Chris_V wrote:aussiesmg wrote: None needed at the 24 hour where they won again....I usually requre the car to last more than 24 hours between rebuilds, however.
I'm calling you out, never owned one have you?
I have owned 16 rotary powered NA cars, none ever blew up even with in excess of 200K miles, raced a BP NA 13B for 5 years without a single problem, steel seals regularly revved beyond 9K, try that for 24 hours in your boinger
BTW unless my math is wrong, 24 hours equates to somewhere over 2500 miles at 2 minutes a lap and all were running sub 2 minute laps. Also many more boingers blew up than did rotaries.
aussiesmg wrote:Chris_V wrote:I'm calling you out, never owned one have you? I have owned 16 rotary powered NA cars, none ever blew up even with in excess of 200K miles, raced a BP NA 13B for 5 years without a single problem, steel seals regularly revved beyond 9K, try that for 24 hours in your boingeraussiesmg wrote: None needed at the 24 hour where they won again....I usually requre the car to last more than 24 hours between rebuilds, however.
Look one post up from yours. I also crewed on an SCCA Pro rally team that ran an RX2 and RX7, as well as an IMSA RS team that ran an RX3, as well as occasionally campaigning a rotary powered Formula Libra.
My last RX7, an FC with a stock engine, managed to last an entire season of autocrossing. But it STILL toasted an apex seal with no warning at 100k miles. After putting the Ford V8 in it, it lasted 5 more years on the street and track with no rebuilds, even though it was putting out almost 400 hp.
I can guarantee that none of the 24 hour racers HELD 9k rpm for 24 hours, either. Even a '60s Chevy DZ302 will rev to 9k regularly in reliable, streetable form. Color me no longer impressed by glorified oil pumps or rotards.
my last race RX3:
my '84 RX7:
And my FC in it's original, rotary/autocross form:
I probably spent nearly 5 years of my racing life almost exclusively with rotary cars. I don't have pics on the computer of the R100, RX2, second RX3, or the first bonkers 13B powered SA RX7. I should probably scan them in, to go along with the pics of most of the other hundred cars I've owned in the last 30 years...
lol, preaching to the converted bro, I have two FBs both of which have small blocks now, but I wanted the power not concerned with reliability
I just converted because mine broke, and it was going to cost more to fix it back to it's 145 hp stock form, or WAY more to make it have more power, than to swap in the small block Ford I already had. Even back in the early '90s, the days of the $300, all-new-parts, rotary rebuild on your dining room table were long gone. But also in the early '90s, there was no such thing as a reliable 300 hp rotary street engine.
with all this talk of spinning triangles, it has me hankering for a 1st gen rx-7. doing a search for rotary rebuilds found this:
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/
not sure if its a repost, but looks like a cool site. NO affiliation :)
Just FYI that the FB I posted is still available. It made 279 timed autocross runs in the last 24 months (and we have 5 month off-seasons) and never even hiccuped. Also, it has 243,xxx miles, never been rebuilt...
In reply to P71:
I know, i know. i can't do anything about it though. still paying off last seasons racing bills :(
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