Clean, Removable Anchors for Garage Foundation Block Wall

My garage is also my basement and the foundation to my house, and it's also a major entryway into the house. 

It's fairly tall (11' or so) but also pretty narrow, so it's be great to be able to use more it's height to keep things up off the ground. Thing is, 2 of the 3 available walls are concrete block, acting as the foundation to my house. 

1) I think concrete anchors can be unsightly if they haphazardly placed, so I don't want to just go around drilling holes for whatever suits my fancy. 

2) I'd like to install a gridded cleat system to match the ceilings joists, ie 16" on center or whatever. I can use the ceiling for support, but I don't want to cut away drywall if I don't have to. Current I'm using this for a set of cantilever shelves, and the screws into the ceiling only prevent the shelves from falling out, not unnecessarily down (they are supported from the bottom).

3) I'd like to install threaded sleeves, so I can remove the cleats when I move out, leaving only the threaded sleeve with bolt head in the wall. Something like Powers Snake+ Threaded Anchor or drop in anchor with removable bolt. I want to be remove the fastner so I can pull off the 2x4s to swap out different storage ideas. 

My concerns are that installing threaded sleeves may create cracks (some of which are already appearing as the house settles) in the block wall. 

I could use an option like this: 

The problem being that my ceiling is finished, so not only would I need to find this hanging shelf system, but I'd need to cut away my ceiling drywall in order to fasten it to the sill. 

The advantage being that such a setup wouldn't harm the concrete block at all. 

Thoughts comments concerns?

What are your fab skills like?  I would be tempted to roll my own shelving system with a piece of angle iron and flat bar.  Then just anchor it in to the very top of the block and let it hang down.  Hell you could even hang cabinets from that.  

Sounds like what you need are Wingits.  They're similar to a toggle but have a steel u channel with your threads, and a plastic cage that holds it into the wall leaving you a threaded hole.  They work very well and i buy them by the 100 pack at Lowes for work.  They are extremely strong and just require a 1/2" bit

Wingits look like they are designed to penetrate the wall completely and open on the opposite side.

Will they work in a solid wall?

Can you hang from the ceiling with the joists as "studs"?

I guess probably only one (maybe two) walls would have that as an option.

pheller said:

Wingits look like they are designed to penetrate the wall completely and open on the opposite side.

Will they work in a solid wall?

They will work if you hit a void in the block.  Just shoot for the 1/3 or 2/3 of the block and you should hit a void.

I have no problem using redheads in a concrete block wall.  They are designed to work by providing minimal expansion force; that is to say, for every 100lbs of tensile force you put on the bolt, they only provide a fraction of that as expansion force.  That's how they can take the torque of a bolt without splitting the block.

I like your idea of the ripped 2x to extend the sill plate, but you will be limited by the flexibility of the lumber in between the lags and also limited by the strength of the wood itself.  I also suggest against straight up lag screws.  Regular lags are mostly shank and not much thread.  Get HeadLok screws.  They're smaller profile than 1/4" lags, but are a direct replacement for 3/8" lags.  They're self-drilling too.  I use them all the time at the theater and they are amazing.  All of my volunteers know them as "orgasm screws" because I always say I get an orgasm when I drive one in.  They're that good.

If you have the need for more weight capacity, you could tie into the first ceiling/floor joist, obviously at the expense of having a vertical obstruction.

So, what I would honestly suggest:  Redheads in the block near the bottom of the brackets and HeadLoks in your ripped 2x at the sill plate.  The Redheads in the block will take the vertical load and then the sill plate will basically prevent it from tipping.  If you hang it from just the sill plate it will take all the load.  If you hang it from just the block you're asking it to take all the load.  I would prefer to see shear load in the block and tensile load in the wood.  Make sense?

Edit for pretty picture of orgasm screws

Tapcons are another solution. I just used them to put up shelving in my office.