This car was my daily driver until the radiator blew a chunk out of the end tank in September 2015. Fortunately(?) it was just as I was pulling into work so I got it shut down before it overheated. I picked up a truck and this car ended up sitting for quite a while. I finally finished the radiator, started the car up and smelled coolant. The heater core had started leaking while the car was warming up after replacing the radiator :facepalm:
I replaced the heater core, but I really wasn't able to get the pins to sit as well as I would have liked them to. I've driven the car a few hundred miles since then, but I'm not comfortable with calling that part of the car 'good.' As such, I'm selling this as a parts car rather than a project.
I am willing to separate the dog cage and roof rack, but they will go with the car if they haven't sold by the time it sells.
The good:
Manual transmission.
Car runs and drives.
Windows, seats, radio, mirrors and other electronics function perfectly.
Price is a thousand dollars!
The bad:
Nearly 250,000 miles on everything.
Body damage.
Leaky passenger front caliper (replacement included).
Spring seats and mounts are in bad shape, one of the sway bar links is broken and the whole of the suspension is fairly tired.
Timing belt way overdue for replacement (replacement included)
Sticky stuff from tint and tape on the rear windows.
A/C does not blow cold.
Coolant temp sensor is not working. So far two replacements in a row have lasted one day each. They seemed cheaply made, so my inclination is to blame the supplier. I believe this is causing the engine to run in a low boost mode.
Airbag light is on.
One tire has a bubble in the sidewall (replacement included).
No physical title. The car is e-titled in my name in Florida. If you plan on getting this car back on the road, I can make sure you get a physical title.
The full gallery of pictures can be found here.
Just a word to the wise if this stays within GRM, I had a string of coolant-carrying failures which all turned out to be the radiator car allowing overpressure. Fixing this could be easy!
GLWS
Assuming Dallas Texas since I don't know of a Dallas Florida?
Awesome deal. I'm a few thousand miles away. What do you mean by not being happy with how the pins sit when doing the heater core?
Yes, Dallas, Texas.
I don't think the failures were caused by anything but age and use, but that's worth looking into.
I tried to make it a pretty good deal, it's just sitting in storage costing me money right now.
As far as the pins in the heater core, I'll try to take pictures. The pins I'm talking about secure the metal tubes to the plastic tank. The ones in this picture are straight and go all the way through. Mine do not. I went through three sets of pins and finally got them "good enough."
That's my car. I just couldn't get those pins in further.
I'm too far away to be in the market for this car, but did this come from the factory with the manual transmission or was it converted.
Also, is it possible that those heater core tubes have a groove between two rings? Maybe they are pushed in too far, thus preventing the clips from sliding into the proper groove.
This is a factory manual car.
I tried a bunch of things when I was putting it all together. I'm sure it's not impossible to fix, but I ran out of berks.
This and a 960 subframe would allow for white block 240 awesomeness. Someone needs to be a herom
In reply to captdownshift :
I have access to a 960 subframe. Are you saying that a 960 subframe bolts into a 240 and allows you to mount whiteblock engines?
I don't know much about the RWD cars, but if so you could have an epic 240 AND you could STILL sell the components to convert an automatic P2 to manual for nearly the full asking price of my whole car according to what I've seen on Swedespeed.
Further research seems to confirm that you could swap this engine into an RWD car.
Anecdote: I took the exhaust off to be repaired and drove around with nothing after the downpipe for about a week. The car sounded absolutely incredible. Full-blown group b Audi noises. An RWD car with this motor could be a beast.
In reply to dculberson :
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=96618
Unfortunately there appears to be quite a bit more involved than I recalled. Definitely nowhere near bolt in and much more involved than just the subframe :( but it's a starrist point.
Car is sold!
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