A good day for testing the Sure-Grip?
No, not really.
Swapped the master cylinder and bench bled it. Started bleeding the system with the Motive Products bleeder.
I didn't finish bleeding the brakes though as the weather is seriously miserable today.
More brake bleeding, and at this point the brakes are soft, but consistently soft. I can force the brake pedal to the floor if I really put my weight on it, although it really takes some force to do that, more than a normal real world brake application would take. Sometimes the pedal seems to be too spongy and I think I shouldn't need the pedal down so much. There is no sign it's leaking fluids, at least not that could be observed. I'm not sure if I need to adjust the rear brakes (I tried riding the brakes down a steep hill backwards to see if that had an effect... maybe), if I need to replace something, or if I just need to recalibrate my foot.
To adjust the rear brakes back off the parking brake so that the cables have slack then tighten star wheel until the brakes have just a slight amount of drag. Then adjust the parking brake cable.
Thanks, I will try that soon.
I've had this Sears Craftsman jack for over 20 years.
Today I tried to lift the car to get the rear drums adjusted properly, and all the jack would do was leave puddles of oil on the floor. Well, at least it outlasted the company that sold it by a good margin.
Probably the coldest day we'll have this winter, so - it's time to see if I can tweak the cold start settings a little.
Unfortunately once it cranks off, even badly, you don't have much of a shot at repeated adjustments. Hopefully next cold start will go a little better.
I made some adjustments to the rear brakes and the pedal is a bit firmer. Now I'm pondering if I should try getting braided lines to really get it dialed in.
I do that All the time in the cold season with my MS-II'd '79 Volare.
One shot per day in the cold lab, sometimes 2 if it is very cold during the day at work too.
Oof... the cooling problem seems like it may be back, and I'd be interested in ideas about how to fix it. Came back from a grocery run to find this.
Yep, secondary cooling fan has left the chat and is hanging by its power cable. My guess is that it contacted the crank pulley on a hard bump.
I decided to see if it would cool OK on one fan. Results (note that this is a 180 degree thermostat, IIRC): The coolant temperature during a non moving idle test rose from 177 to 217 degrees in 4 1/2 minutes, at which point I shut down the test. I don't really like this although I'm not sure just how large a problem this is. This was in about 80 degree weather.
Trouble is, there isn't much room for a good fan option in there. I'd like to get more airflow, but I'm not sure just how.
In brighter news, this new voltage regulator is regulating:
With only one fan, the air can circulate forward through the dead fan and then go back through the live one. Sort of Direct Exhaust Induction except with cooling air.
This is why OEMs that have two fans set to run staged will have an array of three relays to run both fans at the same time in series for "low", then use the other two relays to switch it to powering them in parallel for "high". It's a lot more effort than just running one fan then two fans, but running one fan just won't work.
Im running a dual fan setup from an intrepid (?) On mine. Had shroud built in, the fans spaced right to clear the water pump pulley, and only needed some trimming of the shroud to fit the afco radiator.
Run off a single relay for both when ac and ect demands it.
May be able to do similar for yours.
Dusterbd13 said:Im running a dual fan setup from an intrepid (?) On mine. Had shroud built in, the fans spaced right to clear the water pump pulley, and only needed some trimming of the shroud to fit the afco radiator.
Run off a single relay for both when ac and ect demands it.
May be able to do similar for yours.
Thanks, do you have any pictures or measurements of how that fan fits?
The other option looks like it may be to run a mechanical fan. No room for a clutch setup though; it would have to be direct drive.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Ill grab some when I go downstairs today.
I don't think a direct drive fan will be ideal. The fan has a limited speed range where it actually works effectively, the fan clutch helps to keep the fan in a limited speed range.
The electric fans should work better since they run at one speed.
If the fan runs at too high a RPM, it isn't moving much air.
Ducting in front of the radiator might help with cooling while the car is moving, is air getting around the radiator.
I do not like a direct drive fan from an efficiency standpoint at all. But it offers a big advantage in packaging when I don't have much clearance.
Still battling cooling issues.
Trying to figure out if I need more airflow, less idle speed, or if I need to investigate a mechanical issue with the motor. I definitely need a bigger overflow tank.
Do you have a oil cooler? The oil going thru the turbo gets heated, even at idle, oil going thru part of the exhaust. That could be adding heat. Is the turbo water cooled?
I used a large 3/4? Gallon Gatorade Bottle with a hole drilled in the cap it for my '77 D200 as it did not come with a factory overflow tank. - Non AC / Non Towing package truck.
I have found when upcycling old drink containers for overflow bins that the plastic chemistry matters - some of them shrivel up when exposed to 190°F Coolant.
This one however works fine, and has been zipped next to the radiator for well over years, with lots of montain towing etc.
I also Have used a few of the 70's -80's Mopar RWD overflow tanks as well - I have a 1981 (RWD) M Bodyt Chrysler LeBaron overflow Tank affixed up and in the RH Fender of the '64 Dart (behind the headlight bucket - I forget it is there sometimes. and I have never filled it enough to puke coolant.
TED_fiestaHP said:Do you have a oil cooler? The oil going thru the turbo gets heated, even at idle, oil going thru part of the exhaust. That could be adding heat. Is the turbo water cooled?
Oil cooled turbo, no oil cooler.
Slantsix, thanks for the note on which bottles hold their shape. I had a larger overflow tank in the fenderwell but it was getting brittle. I know it's nicknamed a puke tank, but it shouldn't projectile vomit.
Right now I'm contemplating either using a direct fit radiator to see if I can get clearance for a much larger fan, or moving the transmission cooler up and putting two pusher fans below it.
The turbo is heating the oil..... Might work without a oil cooler, but I would add a oil cooler to any turbo set-up. I had a Maserati bi-turbo, two turbo's, no oil cooler. I added a oil cooler, it never ran hot. Of course it had other issues, they do have a interesting electrical system.
Measured what I have clearance for and what parts I have on hand. Here are the options I can see.
1. Replace the small electric fan with a beast of an OE 7 blade engine driven fan. Unfortunately, there's no clearance for a clutch, and if I guessed wrong on the engine movement under braking, it could take out the radiator.
2. Move the transmission cooler up, install two small pusher fans on the lower half of the radiator while the puller fan pulls the upper half.
3. Switch to a direct fit radiator with transmission cooler, and put a 17" electric fan (or the previously mentioned OE fan) behind it. Downsides: A cheap eBay special aluminum radiator is $165, and good radiators are significantly more.
Which do you think is likely to give the best cooling?
Option 2, but add a oil cooler.
Mechanical fan without a clutch, not a good option.
I'm leaning towards the pusher fans too. For now, I might add an oil temperature sensor for the ECU to log.
Let's see what I can fit here ...
Got a pair of cheapie 8" fans on order.
My wife suggested getting a picture with the Japanese cherry in the background while the flowers are at their peak.
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