TVR Scott said:Looks fantastic!
Base/clear or single-stage?
Unclear on that point. The plan was to do single stage, driven by both frugalness and for it to have a period correct presentation. Today, though, the painter mentioned doing a clear coat as she was walking me through it. I will clarify when I get to speak to the manager next. Either way, I'm happy with how it's turning out.
No consideration for epoxy based? I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with. It takes a lot of potential problems off the table. Not cheap though.
CoolHandMoss said:No consideration for epoxy based? I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with. It takes a lot of potential problems off the table. Not cheap though.
Epoxy top coat? Tell me more?
Awlgrip is the big name in epoxy top coats. Fantastic products. Very pricey though. You can save some if you know someone in the marine industry. It's a single stage coating that has little to no problems with surface prep and even more importantly, post cure. Once it sets, it is what it is. I am no pro with it, but I've seen enough to know it's a good product. I'd say that other than the cost, the biggest drawback is that it really needs to be sprayed by a talented painter. You don't want to resort to the sand and buff method with this stuff. It's not impossible, but you'd rather get it right on the first go.
There are other options as well. I believe martin senior has a an epoxy line?
TVR Scott said:CoolHandMoss said:No consideration for epoxy based? I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with. It takes a lot of potential problems off the table. Not cheap though.
Epoxy top coat? Tell me more?
I have never heard of an epoxy top coat. That said, there is no reason you cant use your epoxy primer as a top coat since it is weather proof.
I thought about Imron, but that was a Urethane.
So who sells a Urethane top coat?
Maybe I'm wrong. I sprayed awlgrip multiple times thinking it was epoxy based. But who knows.
CoolHandMoss said:No consideration for epoxy based? I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with. It takes a lot of potential problems off the table. Not cheap though.
Hmm, all I can say was it wasn't brought up and I haven't heard of this branch of products so I wouldn't have asked.
In the end it's best to go with what you know. Single stage poly still seems appealing to me because I've used it the most.
Yeah, Awl-Grip.
When I worked with rowing shells (like Olympic rowing boats) one of the manufacturers used Awl-Grip. Chemically nasty stuff. Doing any kind of sanding or polishing compromised the coating integrity. Didn't really seem to stand up as well as advertised, but that brand of boats was not known for their durability.
Essentially any repairs required either a bad paint patch or a total respray.
Just my experience.
Yeah I don't think you're wrong there. It's not the kind of thing you want an amateur to spray. But if you get it right, it is amazingly durable and every bit as good looking as any single stage poly in my opinion. I painted a racing boat with it and went and rubbed rails for a whole season and everyone else's gel coat was all messed up and the awlgrip looked like new.
I was hoping to have a big update with the bodywork being done this weekend. Unfortunately it's not to be. One of the things I was getting done before collecting the car again was having the windshields installed.
Apparently the person they have do glass for them came in on Thursday and spent 4 hours on the front windshield and couldn't get it in. He said with the bottom of the windshield installed in the gasket there's a good 1" overlap with the roof at the top. I've heard getting the glass installed on these is a pain but I didn't think it would be that bad.
The body guys will be finished buffing on Monday. I've ordered a new set of windshield seals from Andrew Gray, which are potentially more correct than the ones I bought a few years ago from the TVR parts company Motoclan bought out. We shall see. The car will be going somewhere next week, just have to decide if it's coming back to my house or directly to the auto glass shop, which is what I'm leaving towards. More to come as it develops.
Collected the car today! Paint job came out really nicely. There's been a few issues crop up with the process that have become more annoying recently, but overall things are pretty positive.
We flatbedded it directly to the auto glass company where they will work on windshields. I showed them the new seals and from Andrew Gray and they were at least a little more optimistic. No idea how soon it will be ready so in the meantime, more pictures!
Beautiful!
That looks fantastic! I cannot wait to get to that point. I am seriously considering French blue myself. Looking forward to seeing it more assembled.
Love it! A+
CoolHandMoss said:That looks fantastic! I cannot wait to get to that point. I am seriously considering French blue myself. Looking forward to seeing it more assembled.
If it helps you, the codes for Triumph French Blue were 126 or JAA depending on year. That's what I provided my painter.
Looks amazing. Good luck with the glass and the rest of the reassembly.
Thanks everyone! Just a note on the 2 stage vs single stage paint since it was asked. I confirmed it is base clear. Apparently the TVR is so small that the minimum order for materials to do this color made it about the same price as a base and clear coat which would have better longevity. So that's what they did. I should be getting some updates from the auto glass company today or tomorrow if they've been more successful.
The TVR is still at the auto glass shop so here's a little big of context in case it helps the others when it comes to be glass time for them.
The seals that I bought were from the TVR Parts group, which eventually became Racing Green when they lost the licensing rights to the TVR name and soon after sold to Motoclan. I bought them in 2020 when I first started working on the car knowing I would need them. Compared to the seals I got from Andy Gray they are much stiffer which makes working them into the the corners (and keeping them in place) difficult.
The other major difference is the channel that goes over the body of the car is deeper and wider. According to the glass company, the first seals I bought are designed to only really go over thin sheet metal pinch welds like in a more conventional application. The problem in our case is the fiberglass is thicker and there's vinyl roof/headliner wrapped around the edge of the body, so the seal was not taking to the body at all. This is where the revised profile of the seal provided by Andrew provides its benefit.
So for any of you looking to acquire new seals for their projects yet, get them from Gray's. Looking at Motoclan's website they say their seals are revised, but it's the same part number as when I ordered 2 years ago. So maybe they are getting them from Andrew like they are with other components, but I have not verified. I did order a new seal spreader strip very recently, and it was the same as the old one I had (and different from Andrews), plus both were wrinkled from being packaged too tightly. Andrew's came in perfect condition.
Hope this info helps avoid some headaches for all of you.
That's good to know.
There were some unused seals in my car when I bought it, but I'm guessing they're probably aged-out or of this incorrect design that you're describing. Will probably order new from Grey's when the time comes.
Gotta say, that is looking very nice. I am pretty set on a medium-light blue for my 2500m, and am leaning toward Land Rover Marine Blue or the more recent Arles Blue. Similar to your French Blue, but toned down a bit, with maybe a bit of gray in it. It will be interesting to see how they compare side by side... if I ever get mine done!
I'm really liking that Arles blue. I was going back and forth. One day I was thinking the lighter shades and another the slightly darker ones. At the end I went with my gut knowing there was no "right" answer and I was going to like it either way.
It definitely would be fun to get these TVR's that are being built at the same time together for a celebratory beer. Maybe they'll all be blue! I know of one mostly local to me as well that recently came out of paint in Grabber Blue.
Grabber Blue, huh? I also considered BMW Laguna Blue, the M3 color from a decade ago. Decided it was too "modern" for my taste.
I'm down for the get together. Dallas Texas in October 2028?
CoolHandMoss said:I'm down for the get together. Dallas Texas in October 2028?
That might give me enough time to finish my car.
Though that date was very specific. Some event you have in mind?
You'll need to log in to post.
