Do the dash lights don't work. Nothing comes on with the head lights. I had to prop my phone up in the gauge cluster to see the speedo. It is likely just a fuse but no more night driving before that gets fixed.
Do the dash lights don't work. Nothing comes on with the head lights. I had to prop my phone up in the gauge cluster to see the speedo. It is likely just a fuse but no more night driving before that gets fixed.
Got the Grunt Box installed last night. I will have to see if it worked tonight. It looks like it can take up to 100 miles to reprogram itself so we will see how that goes.
Grunt box helped a LOT! Once it is moving, it drives like a normal car. No bucking below 3500. However, it is now more likely to die while returning to idle. There is an adjustment period that may help this but I am having to restart at every light and stop sign. I am terrible at left foot braking so that isn't working out. This is the next thing that really needs attention.
Man, this exhaust is obnoxious. It came with a resonator that must be installed.
Subarus use TD04 turbos on most of there turbo models. The upgrade fiundvon Sti's are the IHI VF series. Very nice turbos. I ran one for a while before going gaudy
Hey look! An update!! I had to swap the hot cams out a couple years ago do to the lobe angle being too sharp for the shim over bucket lifters. I am going to put them back in at some point but need to get it running right as it sits first.
The update: I have actually started wiring the microsquirt to the DIYPNP N52 adapter board. I am going cross-eyed trying to figure out what wires go where. Anyone know a good way to control the stock "open" "close" type 3-wire, air control valve? I am starting to think that the Microsquirt can't do a three wire IACV like the stock unit and I will need to swap it out for a PWM style.
Looks like I can pull some parts from pile of random stuff to fix the IAC issue. Replace the IAC with Ford Taurus SHO unit that I have on the shelf. It is only 2 wire and should better with the Microsquirt.
One cool part is the light on th dash when the clutch on the supercharger engages. Thats the reason to keep the supercharger.
In reply to RossD :
That is cool, I will admit. I do have a solid pulley though so that light will probably not work much longer.
I have since decided to not worry about anything other than making it a fun driver so no turbos.
Ordered some eBay rx8 yellow injectors. These are high impedance and somewhere between mid 300ccs to mid 400 ccs depending on who you believe. These will replace the 365cc low impedance factory units. Both are denso units and appear to have the same connector. Next up is building and grafting in the COP ignition system. I have some newer Toyota units that should be work out well.
singleslammer said:Hey look! An update!! I had to swap the hot cams out a couple years ago do to the lobe angle being too sharp for the shim over bucket lifters. I am going to put them back in at some point but need to get it running right as it sits first.
The update: I have actually started wiring the microsquirt to the DIYPNP N52 adapter board. I am going cross-eyed trying to figure out what wires go where. Anyone know a good way to control the stock "open" "close" type 3-wire, air control valve? I am starting to think that the Microsquirt can't do a three wire IACV like the stock unit and I will need to swap it out for a PWM style.
What you can do with a 3 wire IAC valve is to ground the close coil with a resistor - typically around 50 watts and 30 ohms or so - and then run the opening coil to the MicroSquirt. This lets you control the valve with just one output.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
So it has been 3 years since I bought these but some googling leads me to believe that they are used by miatas and DSMs for COP conversions. I suspect that at some point I had a better answer than that. Still researching.
DSM diagram for my coils. Putting here for safe keeping.
So I changed some stuff up. I decided that for this car I wanted to go a different direction and got a Haltech Elite 1500 (sorry Matt) as this is my first ECU swap and that seemed to have the most support for dummies. The MS2 and Microsquirt I have will get used somewhere else. Maybe on my XJR6.
Anyway, I have been tearing apart the stock harness and finished up the plug ends of my COP wiring harness. Injector harness is next up. This it will be merging the new and old before working on getting the E-throttle installed to replace the factory TINY cable throttle. The e-throttle will be able to handle idle control and maybe cruise if I bother.
The intent of this car is to be a 3 season car and having it be really usable is the name of the game at this point.
Also, the tires are 15 years old so they have to go. I did not realize that until Clem Sparks pointed out that they were from the Bush era.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Let me know when you want to join in. Also, Lake Garnett is in a couple months. I want to go. That is the goal.
Injector harness finished. Here it is in place with the ignition harness. All crimped connections with open barrel crimps.
Glad to see this car in your hands. I can't wait to see how well it runs on the Haltech. The stock ECU was always a bummer.
In reply to beaterku :
Hey, I was just talking with my wife about updating you! I spent too long with it sitting in the garage but kids do that. We are excited to get it back on the road.
Did some engine bay cleanup. 4 vacuum activated switches were located and determined to no longer be needed. No need for an AC idle up valve if the AC doesn't. Big brain right there.
I ordered a set of Hankook rs4s in 225/45/15. They will replace the ancient rs2s of the same size. There is a little rubbing at full lock but the deal was good enough that I will live with it.
Also, I signed up for the challenge unlimited budget and the Firm track day the following Monday with this car. There is some motivation to get it running right there.
You'll need to log in to post.