The rituals have been performed. Sacrifices have been made. The Demon carb lives!
The rituals have been performed. Sacrifices have been made. The Demon carb lives!
In reply to KevinGale:
Looking good! Like the vintage Edelbrock valve covers. 
Stang_guy03 wrote: In reply to KevinGale: Looking good! Like the vintage Edelbrock valve covers.
I have to raise them to clear the stud girdles, which is why they have a extra piece underneath. I could probably save a few pounds with something lighter but I like them.
KevinGale wrote:Stang_guy03 wrote: In reply to KevinGale: Looking good! Like the vintage Edelbrock valve covers.I have to raise them to clear the stud girdles, which is why they have a extra piece underneath. I could probably save a few pounds with something lighter but I like them.
I doubt that adds much weight to your feather weight frame car any how, LOL. Hey they look good that counts for something anyhow.
Out with the 5.04s and in with the 3.93s for Okemo.
In reply to KevinGale:
That just looks way to easy! 
I have a whole evolution planned to change out gears and LSD unit. 
Good luck on your runs!
Stang_guy03 wrote: In reply to KevinGale: That just looks way to easy!
It is easy. Drain the oil. Pull off the cover. Slid the old gears off and the new ones on. Bolt the cover back on and pour the oil back in or replace with new. I do love the quick change. The ability to swap gears to match the course is really nice.
In reply to KevinGale:
Well you ain't gotta rub it in, LOL! 
Also did some header work yesterday.
The car has custom built headers. Designed by my friend John Reed from advice from Headers By Ed. Like most engine things they are more about creating a wide power band rather than peak power. I did the welding on the headers. I'm not a welder! I can stick pieces of steel together. I have lots of welds on the car and many have been stress tested in crashes. They all held. So I can stick relatively thick pieces of steel together in a strong manner. Welding thin header tubing with my MIG welder is a whole different beast. If I get the weld to where it looks nice I usually burn through too much. So I end up welding on a lower setting and building up a thick bead then there is endless grinding to smooth it all down. It works in the end but sometimes I grind off too much and leave some thin metal that looks fine until later a hole forms due to corrosion or whatever. The right side header had developed a good sized whole. When I let off the gas (usually on bring downs) it would suck in some air and with unburnt fuel it would make a nice bang. The bangs kept getting bigger and when a worker told me he had to cover his ears when I went by on the way down I decided it was time to find the holes and weld them closed. Did that yesterday.
This is the other side back on the car. Getting close to ready for Okemo in a couple weeks. Can't wait to see how the new carb performs.
Spent an some time today crawling under the car and laying down some sacrificial weld beads. The car sits low and touches down on many runs. That is the way I want it since I figure if it never touches it is too high and the touch downs are not bothering me handling wise. But it does grind away at the tubing. So every now an then I crawl under the car and lay down weld beads in half a dozen spots where the car usually touches. I figure that way I'm less likely to find holes in the tubes over time.
With the new carb in place, gears swapped and a few other minor things done like adding fuel, the car is pretty much ready for Okemo.
Ever thought about just adding a skid plate in the those areas. I know F1 cars have a plate/board that is right under the cockpit, but can only be worn so much w/o a DQ. I know you don't need to worry about the DQ part.
In reply to Stang_guy03:
I'm planning on adding an aluminium skid plate under the front. Have the piece but just haven't got around to it. That is more about protecting the motor and oil pan and dry sump than anything else. I don't really need a skid plate in the rear since there isn't much to protect. But I suppose I could create some bolt on sections that would just protect the frame rails. It's a thought. Bending some aluminum plate and around the frame rails and bolting them in place wouldn't be that hard. But adding some weld bead once a year or so isn't that hard either.
You'd get better life welding some rebar on where you are putting beads. IIRC the steel used likes to work harden, so it will last a long time, will also help keep the tube from getting dented if it gets hit hard.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: You'd get better life welding some rebar on where you are putting beads. IIRC the steel used likes to work harden, so it will last a long time, will also help keep the tube from getting dented if it gets hit hard.
It's a thought but the weld beads last more than a year and rebar sounds like it would stick down a bit. I don't want to have to raise the car I just want a little protection from grinding on the pavement. I'm not hitting hard enough that I'm denting tubes. In that case I'd raise the car a bit. It just occasionally touches the pavement.
The only place I hit really hard is long course Ascutney. That is where the picture of the car airborne is from. We only run that course once every few years. At one point we went almost ten years without running it. That jump is hard on the front end and I could see it denting things but it hasn't happened yet. That jump is one reason why the radiator support had to be changed from the standard Troyer setup.
Today we are hunting the rare and elusive North American Modified Tire.
They are very fast and hard to catch on film. 
This one is a captive specimen that tried to escape into the wild while it was being loaded onto a trailer. It managed to get 50 yards into the woods. This is the second one that has tried to escape this way. We may have to resort to tracking devices.
Loading up for the Mt Okemo Hillclimb this weekend.
In reply to KevinGale:
LOL!!! How about a leash? 
Forget the tracking devices. Gather up all the tires in a circle, soak the most worn one in gasoline, and set it on fire as a warning to all the others. Problem solved.
Jerry From LA wrote: Forget the tracking devices. Gather up all the tires in a circle, soak the most worn one in gasoline, and set it on fire as a warning to all the others. Problem solved.
Harsh, very very harsh! LOL 
In reply to KevinGale:
Rebar goes down to 1/4"(#2), but it sounds like overkill now.
Jerry From LA wrote: Forget the tracking devices. Gather up all the tires in a circle, soak the most worn one in gasoline, and set it on fire as a warning to all the others. Problem solved.
LOL, I like it. I wonder if I can get a burn permit for that.
Brief Okemo update. We had a great event. The car ran OK with the new carb. Didn't notice a lot of difference. The road was slow for some reason. Everyone was down a bit on time. I placed second overall since the Super Chicken was there. He is supposed to make the rest of the events this season so I'll be having fun racing for second the rest of the season unless I buy his car. It is for sale. I threatened to show up with cash at a future event.
KevinGale wrote: The road was slow for some reason. Everyone was down a bit on time.
How hot was it?
Jerry From LA wrote:KevinGale wrote: The road was slow for some reason. Everyone was down a bit on time.How hot was it?
Hot, Not sure what the exactly temperature was but everyone was looking for shade and no one really wanted to get into a driving suit! The road also had a heavy layer of dust from construction. We were mostly blaming the dust for the slower times but traction felt good.
Sunday was high 80's. Saturday was mid 80's. With about a 5 degree swing from the bottom to top of the hill. Grip seemed ok once past the construction area.
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