Yes, and that's me sweeping
Yes, and that's me sweeping
I have come to watch a few of the races and am looking to build a car for either the 2017 or maybe even the 2018 season. I was wondering where your rules for classification are (I plan on not fitting into prepared)? I can only find the rules for unprepared and prepared, what class do you, Super chicken and the other modifieds fit into?
The Modifieds are generally in P1. Super Chicken is in Formula Libre.
PREPARED 1 – Cars with a displacement of 4501cc to 8000cc.
PREPARED 2 – Cars with a displacement of 2201cc to 4500cc.
PREPARED 3 – Cars with a displacement of 1601cc to 2200cc.
PREPARED 4 – Cars with a displacement of 1600cc and less.
Full classing rules here: http://hillclimb.org/rules_regs/hillclimb_rules/16class.pdf
Thanks Dave. Sorry for the thread jack Kevin. I misunderstood the rules thinking prepared and street prepared were the same. I plan on having a buggy style vehicle so I wouldn't fit under "still has production appearance" rule in street prepared.
I'll say that there's a fine line between Street Prepared and Prepared, and I had been trying pretty hard to keep dancing on the Street Prepared side of it. Classing in Prepared is worlds simpler than Street Prepared though, now that I've finally forced myself out of SP.
How's the transmission coming, Kevin? All done yet?
Transmission is supposedly on the way.
Just saw this thread for the first time and read the whole thing cover to cover. As someone who spent way too many Saturday nights at various roundy-round tracks in New England from the mid-80s to about 2002 I am always curious about the lineage of race cars. Do you know the history of yours? Anyone notable who drove it? I get a kick seeing Rusty Ball show up in your thread as that's a name that probably doesn't show up in GRM discussions very often. I know he ran a lot at Claremont, which I didn't get to very much. I spent most of my time at Riverside Park and Monadnock.
In reply to Claff:
I don't really know. I bought it from a guy who bought it from a guy and neither raced it. Al Napier (from CT) is all the info I have for the first owner that didn't race it. This would have been before 2005. From what I can find on Ross Tire and Auto it looks like a small shop which most likely means someone with a last name of Ross drove the car when it was last raced. John Ross is listed as the owner of the business.
This was the sponsor on the back of the car when I got it.
And this is another picture of the car when when I bought it.
Xmas has arrived. My Jerico is finally here.
Pretty!!
The season of placing orders has begun. I realized tonight that the shifter arms are different on the Jerico. They are at a 45 degree angle vs the Muncie arms. The GM/Muncie style is the lower left. I ordered three of the lower right. That seemed about the same size as what I have and I reasoned making the long ones shorter is a lot easier than making the short ones longer.
And since I was already going to have to adjust linkage a lot I also ordered 4 feet of aluminum shift rod from Coleman. It is 5/8” outside and the inside is sized for a 3/8-24 tap. (Which reminds me I may have to order a left hand 3/8-24 tap. I’m not sure I have one.) From Speedway I ordered some aluminum rod ends to match.
When I'm done it will hopefully looks something like this.
I love this thing. It makes me miss my bb super though.
sesto elemento wrote: I love this thing. It makes me miss my bb super though.
Well who wouldn't miss a BB Super! They're awesome!
This is my Hurst Competition Plus shifter in pieces. It was dirty. I know it hasn't been apart in more than 20 years since I've been using it more than that long.
I don't shift much do I really need all these pieces?
Got the shifter back together painted the mount that I also trimmed a bit to make it lighter.
The spring in the photo is the reverse lock out for the gate. It keeps the gate always pulled forward so the reverse gate won't ever engage. It has to be a spring because it still needs to move.
Reverse is engaged by the separate lever mounted on the back of the shifter. This has three advantages. 1) You can't ever get reverse accidentally. Launching at high speed in reverse is no fun. I haven't done it but others have. 2) You can use the reverse lever as a parking brake. Put the shifter into first and then pull the reverse level to engage reverse and the transmission is now locked and the rear end won't turn. This is handy when parking in staging at the top of the hill at Okemo since it's a steep slope and I don't want the car to creep forward into the car in front of me. 3) You can't get the reverse gate when downshifting from 4th or 3rd to 2nd. Sometimes I would get the shifter caught in the reverse gate. It wouldn't go into reverse since that would be over an up but it would prevent it from going smoothly into second.
Looks great! I like the parking brake
This means you will need to be significantly faster this year to justify the expense! 
bentwrench wrote: This means you will need to be significantly faster this year to justify the expense!
Lol, If I have to race on speed per dollar I've already lost. We've had people show up and race in an old beater they received for free. Hard to beat free. Still my speed per dollar ratio isn't bad. Driving any type of sports car would be much worse. But I have to admit there is also something cool about making a very fast race car that is still street-able. We've had some rocket fast cars at NEHA events that still have full interior and working heat and AC.
The Jerico is definitely adding some expense but the Muncie was about $1000 and I've broken it twice now. With the rebuilds the total cost was inching closer to that of the Jerico with no end in sight. If I'm going to keep racing this is probably a good financial move. Which is kind of a scary thought.
The FexEx guy brought me a present! New clutch internals are here.
The clutch internals I'm running now have been in the car for many years. I got them with the clutch on EBay. The friction disks were near the minimum thickness. I've since pulled them out a few times and checked and they are still above the minimum. But I'm getting tired of worrying about it and since I have to replace the disks anyway for the 26 spline Jerico I opted to just replace all the internals. Then I probably won't have to worry about it ever again.
Thank you McMaster-Carr
Anyone building a car should have this link. They are constantly saving me. Need a special spacer, washer, thin nyloc-nut. etc, etc. Last night I ordered some thin nylocs and some low profile grade 8 allen head bolts. The local hardware stores don't have these kind of things. Even seemingly ordinary bolts can be a problem. Try to find a 3/8"-16 grade 8 1-3/4" long bolt in a hardware store. I can't! They have 1-1/2" and 2" but no one had 1-3/4". The rear end on my car needs 1-3/4". McMaster-Carr to the rescue!
Got the last of the parts from McMaster-Carr and the linkage is done.
This got rid of some slop and bending I had with the old linkage. I didn't even know I had any slop or bending. The old linkage felt fine but with this new linkage it feels like you are grabbing hold of the gears and moving them. It's that direct! The Jerico engages gears with a clunk that you can really feel and hear. It is strangely satisfying. I find myself shifting it back and forth just to hear it. 
Almost time to buy race tires for this season. This is how I used to do it with my friend John Reed. We could get take offs but the deal was you had to take them all. So we would end up with a trailer load of tires to get a couple sets we could use. This was practical when I could get rid of the tires for free at some transfer station/dump but now every place charges $5 or so a tire to dispose of them. If you have to get rid of 50 tires that's $250 which right now is almost enough to buy two new tires. So given the hassle and expense to get used tires this way it just isn't worth it anymore. Sometimes you can still find someone nice who will let you just pick the tires you want but that's harder to find.
This thread is awesome, Kevin. I wish we had hillclimbs here. Of course it would help to have some hills rather than farm land.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Time for a new distributor cap and rotor. The old one was working fine but it's been on the car for many years and was showing some wear.
First mark the wires and take a blurry picture.
Then upgrade to a new red cap. Red is faster right?
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