1992 Jeep YJ, the Wrongler

Cough, cough.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4985639-yj-ford-8-8-swap-kit.html

The amount of sin in most jeeps is high, this one is right on par. Thank you for making it right. 

I can't (but really can) believe the sleaziness and junk found at actual 'car dealers'

Glad you are saving it.   Looking forward to the transformation

I love your threads. Seeing the amount of hackery you fix is inspiring. 

ClemSparks said:

Boy...I sure do like to talk about me and my projects.

 

 

I mentioned the low oil pressure. I haven't explored that too much but have already started keeping an eye out for either a “good used” engine or a core to rebuild.

Before you dive into this engine: put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to confirm. The stock sending unit is easily damaged during oil filter changes and the aftermarket replacements are very poor quality. When I had a 4.0 I put a mechanical gauge on and wired a resistor to the dash( to center the gauge) after dealing with numerous bad sending units and confusing readings.

Ya, that old girl is glad you took her in. Great thread and even greater workmanship.

Lee said:

Cough, cough.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4985639-yj-ford-8-8-swap-kit.html

Oh, that would be cool.  I'm trying to keep this a driving project (not a while-I'm-at-it fest) so that might have to be a future upgrade.  Though, I hope it won't be necessary (or do I?)

Dusterbd13 said:

I love your threads. Seeing the amount of hackery you fix is inspiring. 

 Wow...thanks!  the feeling is mutual (with your threads and inspiration and the dehackening).

Daytonaer said:

Before you dive into this engine: put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to confirm.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.  I'll still likely try to come up with a core engine to build up and swap in at some point.  Something tells me this one has led a hard 92,000 miles...maybe some of that idling on its side, lol...who knows.

FMB42 said:

a, that old girl is glad you took her in. Great thread and even greater workmanship.

I guess the great thing about buying such a hacked up mess is that anything you do to make it better looks like great workmanship ;)

Thanks all for the kind words...I really appreciate it!

So tonight I wheeled the rear end out of the no-spark zone (but not too far, it was raining) and went to work cutting and grinding the spring-over perches off.  Ultimately, I took the brake hard lines off because they were going to get incidental grinder damage.  But the tubing was seized up in the tube nuts at the wheel cylinders, so I just lopped them off and will bend up some new Copper-nickel hard line before I reinstall. 

So then the cutting.  Oh Boy.  There was a LOT of filler used in splattering these perches on.  I ran the grinder through an entire GhostBusters movie before I was done! 

Ready for brake lines!

I also got the rear springs completely removed.  One of the "main eye" bolts had seized up to its bushing sleeve.  Fortunately that was on the far side from the hay stack so I proceeded with caution and a cutoff wheel and made short work of it.  

This isn't helping my resolve. I have an exclusive offer for an 89 that needs minor attention and tires. Keep having fun. Jeeps are fun. 

The last couple days of wrenching have gone well.  Last night the rear end went in and hung from the springs.

Today I bled brakes, tightened all the rear suspension bolts, put the wheels on, and set it down.

Then things got...I don't know...not disappointing, but expensive, anyway.  The short story is that neither driveshaft is going to fit.  The rest of this post many may want to skip unless you're a nerd about mechanical minutia or are working on your own YJ

...

I already knew the front driveshaft was too long.  That's pretty simple.  I can have it shortened locally, no big deal (famous last words, right?).  

The big deal part is the Rear driveshaft.  I have been banking on the rear driveshaft still being the correct length after this spring change (but not banking on it being able to live in the new setup due to angles and such).  Upon trying to install it today it's clear it is also too long.   This sounds like no big deal...but it is.  See...the rear driveshaft is so short (the one I have is 15 inches) in a Wrangler that you often need to take measures to keep vibrations at bay after a lift of even 2 1/2" (according to many, many folks who have way more experience with this than me...and 10 fold more than that who parrot the same advice).  The cheap and easy thing to do is drop the transmission/transfer case a bit to reduce the driveline angle (this has already been done on the Wrongler).

The more elegant and expensive way to ensure proper driveshaft operation and stave off vibration is to do a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit.  This changes the output yoke on the transfer case from a standard "slip yoke" to a yoke that does not allow for any movement fore/aft.  You join the now-fixed (fore/aft) output yoke on the Transfer Case to the pinion yoke on the rear end with a telescoping driveshaft.  Another key component of the new driveshaft is a "Double Cardan" style (or Constant Velocity) joint assembly at the front of the shaft.  And these...these parts get expensive.  It appears a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) kit is around $250.  The driveshaft seems to often cost nominally the same.  

So I'm at a bit of a crossroads.  I have planned to eventually upgrade to the SYE setup just because it's the right way to do this.  The way the factory really should have.  I like that kind of solution.  I'm OK with spending the money (though I wasn't wanting to do it right now).  But the time is a bit of a bummer.  I was hoping instead of typing this post I might be out breezing around a bit (without a front driveshaft installed) to check out the ride of the new springs.  If I do the SYE setup now, it's going to be a few weeks of waiting for parts, tearing down the transfer case to install the kit, measuring for the driveshaft and then sourcing one.

Another wrench in the works is that I realized my transmission mount is shot.  Like, separated into two distinct pieces.  So I have a set of Engine mounts and transmission mount on the way.  

So...in the interest of wishful thinking here is my current plan:

Install the new engine/transmission mounts when they arrive and put the skid plate (which doubles as the transmission crossmember) back on WITHOUT the prior-owner-installed spacer washers.  I'll try to match up the rear pinion angle with the new (stock) transmission output shaft angle and cross my fingers that that gains me a little bit of length in the setup.  Maybe...just maybe, the current driveshaft will fit if I do that.

IF it does fit (quite an "if") then I can drive a bit and see if I have issues with driveshaft vibration OR with the driveshaft angle being too extreme for the u-joints.  

If it doesn't work I can do the SYE kit and ask my local guy if he can make a matching shaft, or order one online (I also hear folks use an XJ front shaft...not sure if that's a viable option for me yet or not).

I took the front driveshaft to the local specialist this week and he shortened it up for me.  While I was talking to him I asked if he was familiar with the type of shaft I'll need for the rear after I ultimately do a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit.  He's willing and able to build or modify a shaft for me (he immediately picked one or two out of a pile that would be good starting points for me).  Sounds like he'll be less expensive than ordering online and faster to boot.  

So I went ahead and ordered my SYE kit.  Unfortunately they aren't in stock and it'll be a couple weeks before it (hopefully) arrives.  

So In the mean time I'll chip away at some other issues on the Wrongler while I try to take advantage of the weather to take care of some brush clearing that I need to do.  I also want to find my inspiration to work on the Fairmont Wagon again.

Last night I installed new engine mounts on the Wrongler.  I'd say they were definitely due for replacement (the top of the motor mounts as installed are to the right of this photo).

Tonight I changed the oil.  Baby steps.

Also it seems like when you buy drive shafts locallys they fit better and don't vibrate

Today was a wheel day.  

Yesterday I wore out half a green scotchbrite pad cleaning up 7 of my 9 wheels (I just. got. tired. of scrubbing).  I misted them down with phosphoric acid to let that do its thing overnight.

Today I went to town with hammered black on the back side of the wheels.  

After that cures for a few days I'll hit the front side of 5 of them with some sort of silver paint (Hammered, metallic...haven't quite decided).

The reason I'm painting these up now is because it's warm enough to paint.  And because I don't have an immediate need for the wheels.  In my experience, the longer you can let rattle can paint cure before you start handling it, the harder it gets and better it sticks.  Ideally, these will have many days to bake in the sun/heat before I come up with a deal on some tires.

Duplicolor silver wheel paint and ckear works really nice, honestly. Done it on a dew and been impressed. 

Sounds good.  I might try that out.  I've been defaulting to "Hammered" because I'm usually painting wheels with nicks, scratches, dings, etc.  The texture it leaves (or is supposed to) is good at not accentuating these underlying flaws, lol.    The set of 5 that I'm going to do in silver are not too beat up, but not perfect.  They'll probably look fine with the duplicolor.  

I might try some Olive Drab Green or such on the other set (of 4...the ones with tires still on them).  I was thinking about prepping them for some alternate use (mud tires, maybe.  Studded snows, maybe, lol...whatever comes along).

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the hammered paint for imperfect surfaces!  Ive been keeping it in the cabinet for awhile.  

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

Duplicolor silver wheel paint and ckear works really nice, honestly. Done it on a dew and been impressed. 

I used this exact combo on my truck wheels with great success.

Yesterday was nice and warm and I knew the rain was coming today.  So I spent some time "in the booth"

I did end up going with the Duplicolor Silver and then Clear.

The paint is a bit nicer than appropriate for the wheels and prep.

I'm probably the only person who will ever give the wheels a second look.  When installed, they will detract a bit from the sketchiness vibe the Wrongler has going on.

Speaking of sketchiness.

I decided that maybe the power steering leak was from the hose between the reservoir and the pump.  I picked up a length of 5/8 ID hose and today I decided to install that new hose.

Upon installation the inlet tube pulled out of the power steering pump.  "That's odd" I thought as I started to fish the tube out of the hose.  I guess it's time to get another pump.

I didn't know until a few moments later how odd this situation was.

Once it came out...

Is that...    wait,  what?!

That is a gol-darned 7/16" deep socket ground down and jammed into the power steering pump.

What.  The.  ????.

Dip$hits, I tell ya.  Dip!  $hits!

Here's the pump after removal, giving a better idea of the actual sin here:

Looks like time for a $70 remanufactured steering pump.

That right up there with WTF hackery!

Ive owned enough Jeeps to know, and my CJ5 is a perfect example, that nothing brings out creative hackitude quite like a Jeep!

Alright...so when I last updated, I was in a holding pattern while waiting for my Slip Yoke Eliminator kit to arrive.

I was poking around doing some other stuff during that time.  Things like steering leaks and painting wheels and such.

The heater blower wasn't working so I dug into that.  To replace the blower motor, you remove the entire heater box.  That starts with removing the battery tray.  Sounds rough but, really...it's pretty easy.

Once I got all the fasteners loose on the engine side of the firewall, I went under the dash and realized the heater blower was unplugged.  Huh.  And the resistor connector was dangling with corroded remnants of resistor terminals rust-welded in.  Oh well...I'm in this far.  So the heater box assembly comes out for inspection and cleaning (undoubtedly it will be full of gross stuff).

It was kind of gross in there (not terrible) so I cleaned it out.  The blower motor powered up and ran quietly when I put 12 volts to it so I rolled the dice on the working motor (versus who-knows-what-quality of a replacement one) and put it back in.  The heater core had obviously been seeping, so I replaced it and felt like I accomplished something.  I did a quicky cleanup and sealed the heater box back up, ready to go in.

One thing that drew me into the Jeep world is stuff like this.  This defroster duct (between the heater box and the defrost plenum) is available.  

I'm not accustomed to this type of part being available with my other project vehicle platforms (fox body fords, G body GMs, etc).  It's nice.

So I bolted the heater box back in knowing I have a working blower motor and a new heater core.  There are lots of repairs related to the ventilation system that need to be made still, but they can hopefully all be done with the heater box installed.  I'll get to those eventually.

I put some paint on the battery tray (and also relay/fuse panel mount bracket that is interconnected with the battery tray).

After phosphoric acid:

POR-15:

Random "Wagon Red" 20-year-old discount-brand spray paint I found in the barn:

The paint booth (for perspective, since otherwise it looks like I either lay these in the weeds to paint or have telekinetic powers):

I don't think the Mrs. is thrilled about my alternate use of her hitching posts.  But she tolerates it.  I've got a keeper :)

​​​​​​

Since I had the cooling system open I decided to take the opportunity to flush the cooling system.  It was after April 15 (my personal, "It won't freeze anymore here" date) so I drained the old green coolant, filled it up with water, and started it and let it run up to operating temperature.  I did this over and over figuring I'd do it until the water came out clear.  Well...let me tell you, THAT took a while.  I wouldn't swear that I flushed it 20 times...but I'd bet a nickel it was more than 15 times.  

And then we got a cold snap where we had about 3 nights that got into the 20s last week.  So I raced to finish this up and get some antifreeze back into it.  (Normally, I take the summer time to drive around with straight water in there for a few heat cycles and let it flush the scaly crud out).  

I did finally get the water in the cooling system pretty darn clean.  It wasn't until after that when I brought the expansion reservoir into the house to soak/clean that I realized...this thing might have been full of a stop-leak type substance.  There was quite a bit of "mud-like" stuff in the reservoir.  Hmm.  I might have just unplugged a bunch of holes in the cooling system.  Oh well.  I hate stop leak.  If it leaks now, I'll fix it right.  

As of now the system is full of modern "long life" antifreeze.  Albeit with old hoses and thermostat.

ClemSparks said:

 

I don't think the Mrs. is thrilled about my alternate use of her hitching posts.  But she tolerates it.  I've got a keeper :)

​​​​​​

You gotta spin it different.  Tell her to ground tie the horses and stop using your painting posts!