In reply to glueguy (Forum Supporter) :
Yes, you spotted it!!! lol. Lifetime penalty assesment of 151.8 seconds.
In reply to glueguy (Forum Supporter) :
Yes, you spotted it!!! lol. Lifetime penalty assesment of 151.8 seconds.
Ideally it is just the gasket or a bad valve, either would be a fairly simple fix. But even if the head is damaged, they made a lot of these, but replacement head could affect challenge budget.
Have to get the head off. With the head still on, you could look at the top of the valves, if one is bent, then the top will be a little lower. Of course it 's hard to tell much until the head is off.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
Agreed.
Head must come off.
That's a decent sized job, so I'm waiting until the weekend to tackle it!
I hope that's enough to solve the mystery and get you to the Challenge.
I wasn't so lucky, but my luck turned around when I got invited to join Team Stampie.
Stampie said:In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Don't tell anyone but we're Zebra Butt Racing now.
Threadjack but I’ll be really disappointed if that Buick doesn’t get the full Daktari treatment with team name like that.
a_florida_man said:In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
What were you working on?
Build thread?
I bought the 350 powered Morris Minor on an S-10 frame that competed in 2013. I'd hesitate to call this a link to a build thread, as that would imply progress.
Stampie said:In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Don't tell anyone but we're Zebra Butt Racing now.
Won't tell a soul. Except my wife, we don't have secrets from each other.
Getting There... had to take a break for dinner, back at it now.
Can confirm now with the exhaust manifold off that the driver's side #1 exhaust valve is not closing.
That is good, because if it closed and leaked, that would mean it was broken and there would be a large chance for collateral damage. A bent or carbon blocked valve is much more recoverable.
Stay tuned for the final head reveal later this PM!!!
In reply to Mr_Asa :
It certainly is. If this wasn't a challenge car, there would be an arm long list of preventive stuff to do "while I'm in there".
The 1k budget goal says otherwise.
How long does it take to remove the front half of the car? Certainly makes it look a lot more pleasant for wrenching.
The book I have says it takes about 30 minutes to put the front of the car into the maintenance position, I say, not the first time you do it. Most intense alternator replacement I have ever done! Wish I had tested the AC first, since the compressor is under the alternator. I am interested to see how much work it is to remove the head, seems like a lot of extra work for these...
So, I didn't use the true service position.
I actually removed the whole front end.
As I understand the service position, you actually leave a lot of stuff attached, and move the front end out like 8 inches.
I wanted more room, and I wanted to be able to clean and inspect a LOT.
Probably took a 3 hours of slow methodical, let try not to break 13 year old plastic stuff to get it accessible.
After that another 2 hours of carefully doing the same with all that held the head on.
Which resulted in finding this:
NO piston or piston bore damage of ANY KIND, and no apparent head damage.
I'll tear the head down tomorrow to be sure, but at this point it looks like a low buck valve replacement and challenge flogging is in the near future, all in at under 1k. I'll detail the recoup magic tomorrow as well.
Lets just say I'm happy with what OEM jacks and tool kits go for used on ebay lol.
That was a lot of work, but a fairly cheap repair.
So how difficult was it to deal with the timing chain to get the head off, seems like very little room to work with?
Wonder if it would be a good idea to replace all the valves, looks like the valve seals have stopped sealing the oil flow.
This thing should be great fun once you get it running again. One cheap way to add power to any turbo set-up, free up the exhaust.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
Access was great, because I removed far more than what was technically required. Im not trying to make money as a mechanic, so no need to try to beat the book rate on this one lol.
I will probably replace all of the exhaust valves. The intakes should be fine, and used OEM intake valves are probably better than aftermarket. As to the seals, while I will likely replace them, what you are seeing is in a large part due to the direct injection. These engines are famously dirty. The carbon deposits were almost certainly the largest contributor to the exhaust valve failure by creating hot spots on the valve and reducing its ability to transfer heat to the head when closed. Google R56 N14 broken valves. VERY common.
For this year, my goal is to be in the $1,ooo class, so the car will get the engine repaired and the cosmetic issues addressed. Decarbonizing the head and valves should go a long way to taking it back to the power it made new.
Im going to save any "stage 2" mods for next year (if there is one for this car) so I can better plan the mods budget wise, and hunt for deals.
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