I just got caught up, great work on the project, keep it up!
Worked on it a little today. Reran the harness, didn't like how I ran it before. Got the throttle body and elbow bolted on. Also put the new plug wires on.
Now it's been so long I can't remember what one of the lines are for. I left the old fuel filter on to remember which one was inlet. I know one is the return but what's the other? Does the charcoal canister tee into that line then run to the evap line on the tank?
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In reply to bigfranks84 :
If you are using push loc hoses
Please don't useclamps..the inside of the hoses will be cut. If you must use a hose clamp use the Japanese spring hose clamps
They will expand and contract with the heat cycles
This includes the fuel lines. I use the push lol on my ecotec Alfa Romeo spider conversion
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In reply to bigfranks84 : cushion on hard lines also
Vibration on hard lines to hard clamps= work hardening..fuel leak
Did this swap with my Beetle a couple years ago. Haven't regretted. Always wanted to swap a Ghia, impressed that there's as much room as there is in the engine bay.
Alfaromeoguy said:In reply to bigfranks84 : cushion on hard lines also
Vibration on hard lines to hard clamps= work hardening..fuel leak
I only have about a 4in piece of push lock hose on and that's coming off. The the lines before pressure are just tygon and I don't see how putting a clamp on that is any different than any over hose on a barb.
I also never heard of hardline being hard clamped being an issue. Pretty sure thousands and thousands of American cars have been doing that for decades.
But I've been wrong more than once, so feel free to correct me on this guys.
Before I put the push lol fittings/ hoses on my car
Tested a size 8 hose at 100 psi
With no clamps
Me and my freind could not pull it ofF
Seems the more we pulled the more the hose clamped onto the fittings..sort of like that you Chinese finger trap.
In reply to NOHOME :
Yeah I'm ready to. Got a bunch of stuff still to do before that though.
I just needed to hear it run to get motivated again. Its easier when it makes vroom vroom noisey. I haven't heard that motor run for about 5 years now, and that was when it was still in the legacy.
In reply to Alfaromeoguy :
I think I might try and build a new pee shooter "muffler". I think I can hide most of the oil pan and header.
Worked on rerouting the wires. Wasn't happy with the way I had them. Ignore the giant battery, the ghia is dead and that's out of the truck. Still need to tuck the taillight wires on the firewall. Trying to decide if I should buy a correct vw harness (350ish) and strip out what I don't need and add a blade fuse block. Or just put in a universal harness. Open to suggestions on that.
Think I'm going put the ecm in the qtr. Build a false panel to hide and protect it. I had a spectra cold air kit laying around. So its hooked up, I'll have to make an adapter for the maf so I can hook up a filter. I'll eventually make a tube version to get rid of the accordion tube.
Universal harness fir new fuses, color coded circuits, and ease of making it neat and clean with a minimal amount of effort.
American autowire is the nicest ive used.
Ez wiring is ok, painless a step up.
Stay the hell awayfrom ron Francis.
Dusterbd13 said:American autowire is the nicest ive used.
Ez wiring is ok, painless a step up.
Stay the hell awayfrom ron Francis.
I've never used Ron Francis. What's bad about them?
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Thanks, I hadn't heard of American auto wire. Their power plus 20 looks like a good setup and not that expensive.
In reply to XenaFordPrincess :
Their fuse panel design is horrendous, directions poor, overpriced, and gauge of wire for circuit loads are not quite right.
In reply to bigfranks84 :
I was all set to become an autowire dealer before closing shop. Used to be a painless preferred shop, but autowire is head and shoulders above them.
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