Yes, I've used both glass and bondo over scuffed por15.
We're all here to have a good time. No need for hero worship.
How close to mountain city are you? Cause me, the wife, and the drivabeater will be there sometimesoon.
Yes, I've used both glass and bondo over scuffed por15.
We're all here to have a good time. No need for hero worship.
How close to mountain city are you? Cause me, the wife, and the drivabeater will be there sometimesoon.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Maybe just a little? You're very attractive, I,m not good looking...
I'm really near Nashville, TN. Have to look up Mountain city.
Today, I mostly seam welded, and worked on various and sundry patches. Nothing to see there. I did, however tackle a small, but somewhat worrisome patch. I cut out three layers of metal here to make sure I got every bit of rust. This is just forward of the passenger's rear wheel. I used 1/8" plate, because well, its easier to work with, and to replace some of the strength of those 3 layers. Our old friend the bead press came back . Maybe I'll call it the curve press, or bump press. Whatever Outside ground down ready to rust. Today, I ordered more cookies, a face shield (despite good safety glasses, I keep getting crap in my eyes), and a Quart of SILVER Por-15. Happy, Diesel? Its still going to end up black. This way, it will just be easier to see where I have, and haven't been.
Any thoughts on going straight from Por-15 to Rustoleum thinned and applied with a brush/roller?
Never tried that. However, scuffed por15 to undercoating or bedliner or seam sealer works fine....
And spray paint.
In reply to Dusterbd13: Eh, should be fine. I just finished the el Camino thread. Loved every word. Other than what you started with, that's just what I want to do with this car. Mild resto mod. The S-10 read will have to wait for another block of free time.
wheelsmithy wrote: Today, I ordered more cookies, a face shield (despite good safety glasses, I keep getting crap in my eyes), and a Quart of SILVER Por-15. Happy, Diesel? Its still going to end up black. This way, it will just be easier to see where I have, and haven't been. Any thoughts on going straight from Por-15 to Rustoleum thinned and applied with a brush/roller?
YES! Actually it made sense with black after I thought about what you said with the wheel wells would look odd in white or silver, so I'm ok with grey or black since that's what the factory uses. Although originally back then wasn't it just the wheelwells coated in black and the actual floor body color?
In reply to DirtyDiesel:
I'm guessing it was all body color until it got (optional) undercoating. Whatever I do, it will be better than it was. This car took a beating.
My factory undercoating has worked so well I think I may leave all I can and just redo around where I have modified
banzaitoyota wrote: I have tried POR15, and was not pleased with the results
EGAD! How so? I've tried ERF from JC Whitney and been impressed.
wheelsmithy wrote: In reply to DirtyDiesel: I'm guessing it was all body color until it got (optional) undercoating. Whatever I do, it will be better than it was. This car took a beating.
I don't think there's a Starlet left in the world that hasn't been rode hard and put away wet. Most of the examples I've seen (including the one I eventually owned) have been flogged mercilessly. They were owned by people who could barely afford them and had no money left over for upkeep.
In reply to Jerry From LA:
Yeah, definitely true, but this one was more akin to when Steve Austin came back to earth.
On with the tiny updates:
I've been seam welding,grinding, making patches: Imagine like that in various shapes, sizes, and locations. I rolled the rear fender lips-no pics, boring. I am consistently getting 2 hours in a day, more on the weekends, and every day, sweep up a sizable pile of grinder dust and metal. I continue to vacuum blasting compound every rotation, and I began this: On the advice of many, I'm rusting my freshly cleaned metal so the POR-15 will stick. Insanity. Anyone have any idea how far I need to rust it?
Little more than that. Good even light coating.
Then hit it with the metal ready and cheap 2 inch paint brushes full of por15.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Again, Thank You for the advice. But, umm, metal ready? I've got boxes of chip brushes at the ready.
POR Metal Prep, AKA Prep & Ready, AKA Metal Ready.
From what I can tell it's basically a brushable self-etching primer to try and set up a nice interface layer for the incoming POR15 to grab onto.
Its a thin, blue, runny liquid that you get from por. Saturate the metal with it, keep soaking for 20, and rinse off.
Like I say, folks, sparse updates, and they look no different. Seam welding: My next problem. The rusty bit under the cowl. Both pictures look odd because up is not up, if you catch my drift. It looks off kilter because it is. Top of pic below is top of underdash bit. Left 8 o'clock is the master cylinder mount. 7 o'clock steering column pass through. There's rust through in these regions that must be dealt with. Specifically, 10 o'clock I'll touch base on how I plan to handle all that when I have an actual plan.
I know how you feel about it seeming like things are going slow but you're moving along. If most people knew how much time stuff like this takes they would think we were crazy...and they are probably right! I know a lot of times I get an hour or two in the shop and sometimes I spend that making a bracket or something and it seems like I will never get done but the little stuff starts adding up at the end!
In reply to Lomaxmotorsports:
Yeah, Man, I do believe if anyone understands, it is you. An inordinate amount of effort for a econo box with 110 or so horsepower, that's us. I love it. I see the Tercel as friendly competition in the best possible way.
In reply to wheelsmithy: I love a little friendly competition! When we are both done we should meet up at the tail of the dragon and check out each other's cars!
Me, wife and drivabeater will be in mountain city tomorrow night. Wanna meet up and get something to eat if you are close enough?
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Man, I just studied up on Mountain City. It looks like a great place. My uncle is up in nearby Jonesboro. Alas, my special lady friend and I already had plans for the weekend outside McMinnville Tn. You and the wife have a great trip, and I'd like to meet up at some point that works for all involved.
Mini-update time. I reinforced the rear jack pads. and repaired rust holes (really only one), but figured I'd reinforce this area between the rocker and 4-link mount on both sides. The seam welding continues, as do the patches for holes. Oh, and it's rusting nicely. The other side is about the same. Well, welds are cool. Back at it.
wheelsmithy wrote:banzaitoyota wrote: I have tried POR15, and was not pleased with the resultsEGAD! How so? I've tried ERF from JC Whitney and been impressed.
I stripped down the undercarriage of a Porsche 914-6; applied all products per label instructions in a temperature/humidity controlled shop. Within 3 months it was peeling off in sheets. Also observed lots of corrosion starting underneath
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