Again, I love watching your cruise videos.
Again, I love watching your cruise videos.
In reply to de80q:
thanks man! I always think the videos are getting stale. . . need to get more video equipment. . . I have this vision of filming red mountain pass with a high quality camera drone someday
so the last few days Ive been scrambling to get the car ready for battle born quattro 7. my wife decided we should go since it falls on her birthday this year so I have been busy. did new front wheel bearings and new rear control arm bushings. after replacing all my CA bushings I finally have a system down for these cars. no press required. . . infact, the press only made things more difficult so here is one proven method for anyone out there struggling with these...
first step and this is an important one. . . put a couple "gusset tac welds" on the control arm where the stamped pieces almost wrap around the bushing and meet each other. the reason for this is, every time I tried to remove a bushing with out doing this the 2 tabs would just bend and the whole control arm would fall in to the supporting press cup. 1 small tac on each side of the split gives it alot more strength and keeps everything nice and flat/straight inline.
next is to find a suitable sized washer, catcher cup and a good strong 10mm bolt. I used a couple gutted audi wheel bearings (only need one, 2 welded together not required) and an old datsun head bolt for the "press" along with a thick washer just small enough to fit down the bore.
here is one about half way out.
its worth noting that I own a 50 ton press, tried multiple times and everything just wanted to kick out. this bolt press method is way easier for these stubborn things.
going back in was very similar, used a different cup for better support but same principal. tried all thread but it stripped out so I went back to the head bolt. no tac welds required but I do reccomend a little anti-sieze
as nice as it would be to have VW tool #4815162342 most of us dont have that luxury.
What you made there looks awfully similar to a standard bushing press. I've used a friend's several times, and they work great. Was the all thread you tried to use hardened? I've stretched, and snapped hardened all thread, but never ripped the threads off.
In reply to de80q:
thinking back, it was the nut that stripped out first but the all thread wasn't far behind. highly doubt it was hardened or of any decent quality though.
here is another press question, have you ever seen or used the special tools for the sway bar bushings?? those seem impossible without the tool or just cutting them in half for install. if I ever saw a picture or some key dimensions Id like to re-create those
There was a post on motorgeek about that. The guy used a piece of tubing to compress the whole thing, and then into the control arm. Seemed pretty easy that way.
and the obvious question is. . . do I make it run and sell a turd?? or do I continue preparations for the biggest project of my adult life?? I think I choose option: swB
You sir have much greater ambition than I do.
I may actually be selling my 80q soon. Wife said no, but need more money for downpayment on a house.
I love these old Audi's. I'm in Denver and they're just tanks in the snow. There's an Audi 90Q and an Audi 200TQ (20v) on Craigslist now. I've had bad thoughts about buying both and doing a 20VT swap into the 90...
In reply to de80q:
I feel where your coming from (though I hope you dont sell it) if I do take option B, I will likely have to sell all the toys just to afford the body panels for it. 
In reply to docwyte: they really are the best car to have in the snow. almost impossible to get stuck. and the old ones are as you said, all around tanks. I'm tempted to get the black car running just to use as a winter beater this season before taking it apart.
It's funny, after dealing with my LS swapped 951 for 6 years I vowed no more big projects/engine swaps. It's really hard to get the cars out of "project" status and into "normal use" status.
However I would really like a 20VT swapped 4000/80/90Q. The best bet for me is to buy one that's already running/driving. Sometimes sorting out someone else's project can be a nightmare but if I'm careful in my choice hopefully it'd save me a bunch of time.
You know of any nice ones for sale here in Colorado? Working AC/HVAC is a must...
In reply to docwyte:
Here's a cheaper one up in Northglenn. Not familiar enough to know what "no spark" means though... Wagoooon
I saw that one sobe_death. I kinda want to find a car that's already been swapped. So a 4000/80/90 that already has a 20VT or MC2 in it...
If I wanna get a wagon there's a VW Quantum Syncro for sale in the Springs I think. That'd be a pretty cool chassis to drop a 20VT into...
docwyte wrote: If I wanna get a wagon there's a VW Quantum Syncro for sale in the Springs I think. That'd be a pretty cool chassis to drop a 20VT into...
I think the answer is clear. you know what you must do. 
2K4Kcsq wrote:docwyte wrote: If I wanna get a wagon there's a VW Quantum Syncro for sale in the Springs I think. That'd be a pretty cool chassis to drop a 20VT into...I think the answer is clear. you know what you must do.
Seconded
LOL. I've already got the build mapped out in my head. Do nothing to the exterior, leave the patina. Mk2 GTI recaro front seats and recover the Quantum rear seat to match.
20VT motor with RS2 bits, upgraded suspension, brakes and exhaust. Sleeper for the win!
I know of 2 quantums (one turbo diesel, one syncro) here in grand junction sitting in a field of dreams. . . our local group has already saved 2 vw's off of this property so I know they can be had. . . just a little more 
on your shoulder
yesterday I spent some quality time with the audi. replaced my sagging motor mount fix from earlier this year. replaced a broken headlight lense for a slightly less broken one that wasnt full of ice. and began replacing my muffler.
While I was in las vegas for battleborn quattro, my wife took a video of the audi on a 2-step launch, you can literally watch the muffler blow out! it was just a cheapo from the exhaust shop and was never intended to handle backfires of this magnitude. luckily my friend had just purchased an old toyota truck with an oversized stainless magnaflow muffler that he removed and gave to me. score!
just had to cut off the shotty pipe adapted welds and its good to go.
glad my little band saw was able to grab the muffler. made things easier and now its the proper size pipe for my exhaust. should be more durable than the old tin can.
as you can see its leaking. what you cant see is how the sides are swollen to the point that my tailpipe isn't centered with the bumper cut out. . . drives me nuts.
We really need to see the video of that! I haven't dared use my launch control yet... I'm too afraid of blowing out my unobtainium "real" stainless stebro system.
When the new exhaust is fabricated with easily replaced mufflers, that will be a different story.
cant belive I forgot to post the battle born quattro 7 video on GRM. the amount of power that comes to this event is staggering. makes my budget build feel a little under-dressed
Hey 2K4Kcsq,
I'm new to this forum and stumbled upon your posts. Wow,talk about motivational. I have a South African T3 that came with the Audi 4000 engines though bored out. It is a 2.5 Audi engine with CIS. I am in the process of swapping out the CIS with EFI using also an Adaptronics ECU(i hope it works out well, don't know much about this ECU but i have read some good things). I didn't know i could also swap out the distributor and replace with a coil pack and all the necessary parts. My question is, what would i need in order to do a similar swap to eliminate the distributor and start using the coil packs? What parts would i need and what would be the process involved? I noticed you modified the distributor housing after you stopped using it, why not just use a blanking plate, isn't it easier? sorry if the questions sound unmechanical!!
Cheers in advance In reply to 2K4Kcsq:
In reply to monkslayer:
I know I'm not 2K4Kcsq, but him and I have very similar setups on our Audi 10v turbo swaps.
The reason for keeping the distributor installed is because we are using it as a cam position sensor. With megasquirt, we need the trigger wheel on the crank damper, and the single window hall sensor in he distributor to sync the engine with the ECU.
Other parts needed would be 5 coil packs, correct spark wires for the coil packs, and the harness pigtails to connect the coils. Here in the states, LS2 coil packs are cheap and plentiful, so most of us go with them. You can also use the VW/Audi coil on plug coils if you want to build a bracket.
As for what would be needed with you choice of ECU, I can't comment on that. I have no first hand knowledge of that particular one.
Hope that helps.
In reply to de80q: Hey de80q, your answer has been quite helpful.Besides the LS2 coils what else would i need? I see that a trigger wheel was installed. Any brand or type i should look out for in particular? Also would be the LS2 have an advantage over the VW/Audi coil on plug? Apologies in advance for the newbie questions. Also my engine is a 10V NA, my assuumption that the sequential coil conversion would still work, i'm not sure if that's correct.
Cheers
Yes, the sequential setup will still work on the NA engines, but you may need to find a distributor from a turbo engine. Most of the NA engines used a 5 window trigger wheel in the dizzy. This will not work as a cam sensor.
As the the crank trigger wheel, you just need to make sure it will be larger than the diameter of where you will be mounting it. This is so the sensor will pick up on the teeth, and not the damper.
Other than wiring, LS2 coils are pretty much ready to go. As for using the VW coils, I heard the computer has to be setup a little different for them.
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