I’m new to the forum and thought I’d share some of the experiences I’m having with my project. I have a 90 base truck (previously reported as a '91 - I bought it new in '91, but it was a '90 build) that I’ve had since new. It’s been in my son’s garage since the motor failed for the second time back in 2006. The truck is in very good shape body-wise with a very clean interior. Anyway, in late November 2020, I decided to pull the old engine and build a project LS swap truck. I’d read a ton of posts and spoken (chatted via text mostly) with a couple of folks who had done this with a couple of trucks. So, although I thought I’d stay with a manual transmission, T56 or the like, but decided on a 4L60e after speaking with a number of rod builders and seeing, at least from posts, that it’d fit with minimal to no tunnel “hammer mods.”
So far I have a 5.3 that’s been built for me. I just didn’t have the space or machine tools. The builder ensures that it’ll be putting out 375-400 hp, more than enough for the little truck. The motor has been sitting in my shop (son’s garage) for several weeks now while I have been sorting out fuel system mods and some bushing replacements. The transmission is being built, but it’s in queue. I tried a first fit try and see that the stock frame pads are going to need mods (I knew that). I was loaned an aluminum LS bare block for a fit try, but it just doesn’t give me all the dimensions I need to make sure things fit.
First fit showed me that I had the motor setting too low as the front of the oil pan was resting on the steering center link. After checking with some other successful swappers, I was assured that all I’d need to do is space the motor up in the mounts. Other than that, the motor looks like it’ll fit, although it’s going to be tight (I’ve already read that several times too).
I need some help in many ways still. Headers seem to be the only way I’ll be able to go. Recommendations? Also, exhaust routing will be a concern. Has anyone gone with a dual exhaust? How about single? Pros, cons?
AC and heater plumbing. Thoughts? Initially it looks like the heater inlet and outlet are blocked at the firewall. Ideas?
One more thing, I used the original fuel tank with some mods. I’m using the original 5/16 fuel feed as a return and have modified the aft vent fixture (top of tank) with a new fuel draw (6AN) to a pre-filter and then to a Walbro 255 LPH external fuel pump.
Lots for now. Here’re some photos of the truck and, yes, we did cut the top of the front radiator frame. Comments and recommendations are welcome.
84FSP
UltraDork
2/11/21 5:52 p.m.
Awesome! I had two of these as a kid running a lawn business. Nearly indestructible but powerfully slow with some of the last car hearted engines offered. Looking forward to this.
In reply to 84FSP : Thanks. I'll post progress as it happens. For now, I'm waiting on the transmission. Once I get that I'll begin fitting everything in.
Yes, looks like the motor will need to be moved an inch or so - I don't know of much in the way of oil pans with extra front clearance.
I used 5th generation Camaro manifolds in a '72 C10 engine swap; they have a straight down exit close to the block. I suspect they'll work well here too.
In reply to MadScientistMatt : Thanks. You're right, the motor needed some tweaking. See my post below. I think we have a lot figured out. I was able to borrow a 4l60e case to further the fitting work. Everything fits very well, after we decided to bring the tranny up from the bottom. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about exhaust. I'm not a welder and may just have to bite the bullet and have a shop do that for me. Anyway, thanks for the input. Any is always welcome.
By the way, there appears to be a good bit of room in the tunnel for linkage. I'm hoping to put in a simple yet sturdy shifter. I'll post which I used.
This is great. Thank you so much for all the pictures and info as I'm also looking to put in a LS into a 92 Isuzu Pickup.
Is the oil pan sitting below the frame? I ask because currently my truck is bagged and bodied.
Time for another update. I finally wound up using 1/2" plates (went to a local weld shop and was able to get 2 - 5" x 7" x 1/2" and 2 - 5" x 7" x 3/8" pieces for $20. I recommend doing that instead of a metal sales shop) on each side frame mounts to adapt the swap mounts to existing original mount position. I placed studs into the plates and welded them flush, aligned with the original holes for the stock mounts. I then drilled and tapped four holes on each plate to accommodate the Trans-Dapt swap adapter mounts (pictures should show more clearly). I used ICT Billet SBC to LS motor mount adapter plates, reversed the Trans-Dapt engine mounts to attach to the ICT plates and put the Trans-dapt adapter plates on the 1/2" plates I built for the frame mounts. I expect there may be a much simpler way to do this, but it's what I did. I did a trial fit test and then removed everything for a paint job. I just put everything back together and am waiting for the transmission (should be ready any day now).
Anyway, here are some photos (more available if anyone is interested). Questions, comments, and recommendations are welcome.
- plate details
- plate line-up with stock frame mount
- driver side mount assembled
- view from passenger side down to show oil pan clearance
In reply to UrMom :
Yes, here's a photo. I'm going with the Holley 302-1 LS swap oil pan. https://www.improvedracing.com/holley-302-1-gm-ls-retro-fit-oil-pan-dimensions
In reply to Racebrick : regret not responding sooner. The pan I had really needed to be replaced. I found a Holley clone that worked very well. I appreciate your recommendation. Thanks.
Update from 05 Apr 21:
Good work this weekend. Got the motor and transmission into the truck as a single assembled unit. There’s still some more to do to accommodate the intake manifold. I’ve had to do a little bit of hammer mod work, and it’s still tighter than I’d like.
I’m stuck trying to figure out what exhaust headers/manifold Will be the closest fit. Still need a floor shifter; there seems to be plenty of room between the transmission and tunnel. Still need to place the tail mount. Still need to figure out a parking brake workaround. Still need to find a 96 Rodeo instrument cluster.
Advice and recommendations are always welcome, as are any questions.
ATTACHMENTS
Driver side
Still too tight in the back
Another oil pan view
No more oil pan below forward cross member.
Pretty, much in place.
Honestbroker
Drives on Pavement
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What's the issue with the parking brake? Why do you want to swap to a rodeo cluster?
I've always wanted one of these Izuzu pickups just so I could grab all of the Honda branded parts from Passport and bolt them on. I just want to watch people be confused at the sight of a Honda pickup-that's not a Ridgeline.
Another update:
Got the motor and transmission mounted. I bought a stock transmission mount (see photo) and modified, slightly, the original mounting plate. Once all that was done, the engine and transmission were assembled (pinion angle looks great) as it will be from here on out... except that I'll need to pull everything out one more time to facilitate some fuel, brake, and transmission cooling lines' installs.
Still need headers, heater line setup, 97 Rodeo instrument cluster, radiator, and probably something else. I just ordered TCI FAST-GATE Shifter (616541). Should be simple and reliable.
Here are a couple of pics. As ever, comments and recommendations are welcome.
Mount and plate for fitment illustration.
Transmission mount part number
Mount bolt through modified mounting plate
Mount bolted to transmission
All bolted up
In reply to Racingsnake : The parking brake is in the way of headers for now. I'm trying to figure out how to keep it and still have an exhaust fit. Most folks who have done these swaps into the pickups say they just got rid of the brake. I don't want to do that.
The Rodeo cluster (94-97, or so) will accept the feeds from the LS PCM. I'm told, and have read, that all the gauges will work when wired up correctly and the fit is the same.
In reply to jimbob_racing : You know, I never knew that Passports and Isuzu pickups were so similar. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome. I was working for a Honda dealer when the Passports came out. The story at the time was that Honda needed an SUV and Isuzu needed a minvan.
So Izuzu made the Passort for Honda while Honda made the Oasis for Izuzu.
In reply to Honestbroker :
Personally.. I would ditch the 4L60e and look for a 4L80e... The 4L60e is known as a glass transmission in my silverado group.
In reply to Honestbroker :
That's cool that the Rodeo cluster will work with the LS PCM.
Is the parking brake mounted under the dash? If so, it ought to be fairly easy to swap to a tunnel mounted lever (possibly from a Rodeo) to get the clearance.
cool project
In reply to jimbob_racing : You know, now that you mention that again, I seem to remember the early Passports. Thanks again.
In reply to Kasstastrophy : Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, it's too late this time. The 4l60e was rebuilt by a shop specializing in GM automatics. They have built this so it can handle 500-600 hp. Not sure what they did, but these guys have good cred here.
And, the 4l80e is bigger dimensionally (girth). I don't have a cavernous tunnel.
Thanks again. I appreciate all these inputs.
In reply to Racingsnake : Thanks. I've thought about the tunnel mount parking brake and haven't ruled it out yet. One problem I have is a bench seat (still trying to keep costs down as much as possible). The other problem is the new shifter has a bigger footprint than I'd like.
What about a floor mounted parking brake handle between the door and seat like a c4 Corvette or some of the street rods?
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