I was hoping to use tomorrow to do my first front end alignment but that'll have to wait for Sunday PM or next week.
I was hoping to use tomorrow to do my first front end alignment but that'll have to wait for Sunday PM or next week.
Stainless steel ball valve plumbed in to supply line to heater core. This should reduce cockpit temps by preventing heater water from getting to the heater core.
So ham fisted guy that I can be at times I damaged the fan controller sensor last night. It's a thermocouple that is trapped between the hose and radiator outlet tube. Consultation with buddies including Angry hisself leads me to believe I can repair this pretty easily. 
It appears to be a twisted pair stuffed in to the brass well then crimped, siliconed, and shrink wrapped in to position. I was expecting a soldered connection to two terminals that I may have damaged but I see no evidence of that at all.
And yes, safety flops and safety squints were used at all times for this job.
Well damn. Further autopsy review of failed sensor shows a resistor in place between wires. It was damaged and I can't make out color codes on the body. Supplier won't have new ones available for 2 weeks. I can run fans on HI with failsafe switch in the short term.
For the electronic geniuses here, if the sensor is to have a resistance of 40-60k OHMs when cold what resistor would that be? Also, am I oversimplifying this?
Rad back in place so time for hose and electrical connections plus upper mount then fill 'er up. I was going to get new coolant but this looks beautiful so a quick strain and then fill the system back up.
In reply to wawazat :
Research thermistor on Mouser or similar electronic component supplier and you will be able to find what you need by temperature range and assume a very low amp load. Then you can buy a bag of a thousand for pennies each. For one alone wait for the OEM and pay the same for certainty on spec.
I'm headed down that path tonight and tomorrow with my Dad. I wish I was more comfortable with electric and electronics. I don't want to destroy anything on the controller though I don't know that an incorrect resistance level could do much or any damage.
I've ordered two new sensors-one for the car and one for reverse engineering. I won't be beholden to this company again.
Wrapped up, refilled, plugged in, cleaned up and run until thermostat opened and coolant circulated thru the radiator. No leaks! Letting things cool down and I'll top up the rad tonight.
20 mile test drive this evening went well. Everything was dry at about half way and again when I pulled in at home. I triggered the fans to run full speed about 5 miles in. Tomorrow I'll investigate resistors to make the thermistor assembly. I'll also look thru my FiTech system literature for controlling the fans. I've used it long ago for a single fan but not dual fans. I'm comfortable driving it as I've been using it.
20 mile test drive this evening went well. Everything was dry at about half way and again when I pulled in at home. I triggered the fans to run full speed about 5 miles in. Tomorrow I'll investigate resistors to make the thermistor assembly. I'll also look thru my FiTech system literature for controlling the fans. I've used it long ago for a single fan but not dual fans. I'm comfortable driving it as I've been using it.
In reply to wawazat :
Success!
I really like how you continue to just dial in the car, making one improvement after another.
Thanks Brian. It's still got soooo far to go too! Every time I pile in for a drive I'm reminded of this quirk or that odd noise. Swapping the motor this fall will allow me to address some things past owner and past me did that I know can be done better now. This forum and build threads continue to inspire me to improve.
Now on to the alignment!
Last night and most of the day today were tied up with house and DD stuff-blech. When those were finished I was able to get my ME Wagner adjustable PCV valve installed and tuned. The car has never had a PCV system in place using dual breathers on the valve covers. It's always been leaky and the breathers were always oily. I'm hoping this may help keep things a bit cleaner
First step is to verify engine vacuum. Harbor Freight vacuum gauge showed me at a 17-18" Hg at warm idle.
Here is the PCV itself
I followed the simple steps in adjusting the spring compression per the videos on their website and wrapped things up pretty quickly. Test drive next.
Test drive showed no bad habits. On to the next task on the list!
In reply to wawazat :
I would be interested in your experiences with the Wagner PCV valve, once you've got some miles on it. I'm contemplating throwing one at my 440 when I redo the top end.
Will report back. Quick drive tonight showed reduced oil burn on the exhaust while driving. Lots of miles coming up in the next week or two.
Tomorrow will finally be alignment v 1.0. I checked my driveway with a 6' piece of bar stock I had and it's very close to level. Good enough for this first attempt. I'll get the turn plates in place and have at it. After that a machine polish and wax.
Alright changing my estimate on the weight of these turn plates to 70lbs each. Damn. 
Today's Work wear provided by Angry!
Nice!
So baseline values are established and now the fun begins!
Caster
DS +4.30
PS +1.10
Camber
DS -0.9
PS -1.25
Toe
1/8" total toe IN
Tweaking caster on PS can be accomplished with shims under the front UCA bolt (harder) and with the adjustable strut rod (easier). Strut rod changes position of the wheel-fore and aft-within the wheel well whereas UCA shims do not. So shims it is! This change also changes caster value so gotta verify that but it should help me match side-to-side values of camber.
Go home and get your shim box!
Ey, I don' know, you been away a long time, maybe you haven't heard I don't shim no control arms no more.
Tweaking the adjustable strut rod a bit got me up to +2.7 caster. Today is my Dad's birthday so we're gonna stop in and bring him dessert and a card so I'm done for tonight.
It's not as dramatic as when adjusting the strut rod but shims also move the wheel fore and aft in the wheel well and assuming you're starting with zero shims any that you add are going to move camber more positive. Also, if you have any significant difference in shim thickness between the front and rear of the control arm you're going to impart a bending moment on something when you tighten the bolts.
I think you're going to have to do at least some of your adjusting using the strut rod to get rid of your caster split.
Do you have target alignment settings? I believe I have a factory service manual that covers that car if you'd like me to look up the stock specs.
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