1 ... 6 7 8 9
buzzboy
buzzboy Dork
12/29/20 8:47 p.m.

Interesting little infusion rig you've got.

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
12/30/20 7:13 a.m.

In reply to buzzboy :

Cheap little harbor frieght pump and a cheap BacoEng Resin Pot. Works surpisingly good actually. 

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
1/6/21 9:31 a.m.

Got some more progress done.

Made flexible intercooler mounts that allow the intercooler to move a bit
Got turbo's chassis mounted
CFD checked my design. Its optimized around distribution rather than pressure drop. This is more effective in lowering Compressor work in my cycle calculations.
Got intercooler bottom half welded up.
Got HD clamps welded up to the compressor discharge.

Also I got two more valve covers made with the CORRECT hardener... so these will be about to be post cured in my curing oven im going to build.

Video with all the deets is here:

https://youtu.be/79YEnK28dDM

https://www.youtube.com/embed/79YEnK28dDM?wmode=opaque

Name:  20201127_195426.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  317.5 KB

Name:  20201219_144536.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  257.8 KB

Name:  20201219_151629.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  288.5 KB

Name:  20201219_182151.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  316.4 KB

Name:  20201219_185341.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  294.0 KB

Name:  20201224_105154.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  255.3 KB

Name:  20201221_162125.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  360.3 KB

Name:  20201221_163828.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  444.7 KB

Name:  20201231_152732.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  218.3 KB

Name:  20210104_205541.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  252.0 KB

rustomatic
rustomatic Reader
1/6/21 12:01 p.m.

That is one truck-sized intercooler!  The bracketry looks great!

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
1/27/21 8:03 a.m.

Started working on some carbon fiber brake ducts. Worked through some trial and error making some.

The winning combination used Soller Composites 12k Twill Sleeves and their shrink wrap method. I used the same 450F Tooling resin from RDR for the tubes to make sure they can handle the indirect heat exposure of the brakes. The brake shrouds will have temp sensors monitoring the rotor temps and ducted Detmar fans to cool. The shrouds shouldnt get too hot even on shut down thanks to the temp sensors and controller. Ill control the fans based on what pads im running and run a PID control with the fan motors. On shut down the fan blowers will be on a time delay shut down to ensure that the brakes dont overheat the shrouds.

https://youtu.be/DYfSIxgENH8

https://www.youtube.com/embed/DYfSIxgENH8?wmode=opaque

Name:  20210119_174700.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  396.9 KB

Name:  20210117_222352.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  203.9 KB

Name:  20210109_214502.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  125.0 KB

Name:  20210124_215337.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  212.4 KB

bluej (Forum Supporter)
bluej (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
2/12/21 12:42 p.m.

Awesome build! What cnc plasma is that?

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
2/12/21 8:05 p.m.

https://youtu.be/M9duHRrHhUQ

https://www.youtube.com/embed/M9duHRrHhUQ?wmode=opaque

Slowly getting this thing tricked out bit by bit...

Got the passenger side brake duct finished.
They will get Detmar 4" Nascar takeoff blower fans piped inline. The ducts are made for an inboard feed rotor, which my eventual two piece rotors will be, hence why it looks goofy the way theyre ducted.

Name:  20210127_220111.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  361.5 KBName:  20210201_213946.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  409.5 KBName:  20210202_165715.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  345.3 KBName:  20210208_212121.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  327.9 KBName:  20210209_221923.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  194.1 KBName:  20210209_221931.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  244.1 KBName:  20210209_222005.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  199.8 KBName:  20210209_222817.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  174.4 KBName:  20210209_222841.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  150.1 KBName:  20210209_222841.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  150.1 KB

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
2/12/21 8:08 p.m.

In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :

Homemade jobber. 

Chinesium and PokeyCNC setup. Runs like a champ.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r4pAt0Vl7w

 

 

loudandproud
loudandproud New Reader
2/25/21 9:22 a.m.

Got the exhaust from the turbo to the cab done.

Ended up doing half of the job with a bad bottle of argon. I was getting alot of color and was frustrated thinking i was just doing something wrong. Sure enough... changed the bottle... and I didnt suck anymore. Jeeeshhh.
Welp the exhaust is going to be cerakoted anyway so whatever. Just hoping i dont have too many cracking issues. If I do... Ill redo it in a more robust wall thickness for the first couple feet.

Next up is making my intake tube from the inter cooler to the throttle body.
https://youtu.be/woq4NaPAkrU

 

 




Name:  20210204_193505.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  182.5 KBName:  20210206_180614.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  234.0 KBName:  20210221_174627.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  237.7 KBName:  20210224_132227.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  155.2 KBName:  20210225_080723.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  274.9 KB

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
2/25/21 9:23 a.m.

A little teaser for the next parts... 

nocones
nocones GRM+ Memberand UberDork
2/25/21 10:32 a.m.

That looks really nice.  Your carbon parts are turning out great.  

rustomatic
rustomatic Reader
2/25/21 1:56 p.m.

Ditto--those brake ducts are beauts!  Nice work!

OjaiM5
OjaiM5 HalfDork
2/25/21 2:46 p.m.

This build makes my work look like I made a pinewood derby wedge. 

Amazing

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
2/26/21 7:13 a.m.

Thanks guys. Theyre not perfect (like all the rest of the build) but I'm happy with everything since its my first go. 
The project is on a slow burn... just trying to work on one thing at a time.

Maybe it will be done in like 2 years. I think thats a reasonable estimate at this point. 

I have some BIG plans on the interior, wiring and the ECU/TCU/Modules on this truck. 
Im learning as much about Python and CANBUS as i can right now. Hoping to integrate everything and have some serious telemetry abilities on this thing.

Im a mechanical engineer by trade and build commercial and industrial centrifigal chillers. I specialize in the system modeling and design side... so I'm a big test data kind of guy. I plan on mapping this entire truck out like none of you have probably ever seen lol. 

A physics based thermo model built into a ratings program for the truck is extremely useful because I can monitor the entire truck and through red flags in my software if something is going south. 

With enough pressure and temp measurements, you can basically build the entire thermo model for the engine, turbine, compressor. The rest for the driveline is simple, and since i have temps and pressures for cooler control planned, I should be able to build a very accurate loss models (2-3% error is decent).

These things arent that complicated if you break each chunck down.

rothwem
rothwem Reader
2/26/21 7:45 a.m.

So with the chassis mounted turbos, are you not worried about overstressing your headers/bellows?  Those suckers are going to get REALLY hot and there's going to be a lot of vibration/fatigue stress on them due to engine movement.  

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
3/1/21 9:13 a.m.

In reply to rothwem :

They're more flexy than youd think. 
The engine isn't "solid mounted" per say, but its in a hiem joint with a .125" of HARD durometer Polyurethane. Its very solid. Just to test, we hooked the cherry pick up to it on one side and lifted the entire engine, trans and chassis off the table on that corner and the measurement point on moved 3/16" (measured from header flange to bottom of frame rail). Im sure a fair amount of that was chassis flex, and that should be reduced with the coilover tower supports and cross bracing. 

If you look at the exhaust and turbo mounts, theyre oriented differently (on purpose) and are pretty thin to provide some degree of freedom. 

The Engine can rock along its axis. Between the Engine and the turbo have a bellow which help axial and translational stress (caused be the engine twisting, puts tubes in shear). 
The Turbo mounts themselves are 1/8" material and long. This makes them strong in the axial direct (which has room for thermal growth because of the bellows) but flexible side to side. With all the pipe on, I can grab the turbo and bend it side to side almost 3/8" without a ton of force which I think it pretty flexy. For the waste gate, due to space, I went with a slip joint over a bellow. My buddy Jason recommended this.

I'm not saying this is all "right" or even that its gonna work... but I'm more saying, yes I agree with your concerns, had concerns as well and this is what I did to handle it, and how I think its gonna work. 

It may break, who knows. If it does ill be revamping the whole thing. 




 

rothwem
rothwem Reader
3/1/21 10:35 a.m.
loudandproud said:

In reply to rothwem :

It may break, who knows. If it does ill be revamping the whole thing. 

Ha! I guess that's the fun of it being a project.  If this was something for work, I'd be super worried about not knowing what the stresses are prior to design, but like you said, its a pretty low penalty for failure on this one, and it'll probably come out fine.

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
4/10/21 8:54 p.m.

[url]https://youtu.be/eLjXB6PEgKs[/url]

 

 

How many of you guys are running cats on your build? I just got wrapped up with welding up a set of midpipes with 100 Cell metallic cats.
I installed cats mainly because I need to pass inspection, but also because I hated smelling gas anytime I drove the truck.

Im not worried about the power... i should have plenty to break almost everything in my driveline lol. 

I place the cats a good way back in the exhaust to try to keep them alive. 

Who's melted their cats? What power level did they fail at? How far were they from the motor?

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
4/10/21 9:08 p.m.

Mid pipe is in. Shes tucked in there pretty nice. Im happy with it.

I almost currently going back and fixing up the weld on the hot side that were contaminated by the bad weld gas. I ground the welds flushed with a 120 Flap disc, then 320 grit DA, then a 4.5" scotchbrite, then a wool polish pad with black polishing compound. It brought the pipes up to full luster. Then i clean the piss out of the and started to cap the previous weld. LOOKS WAY BETTER. Now i just have to do it to all of it... lol

Name:  20210411_160010.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  236.0 KBName:  20210410_161417.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  272.7 KBName:  20210410_164045.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  234.9 KBName:  20210411_153440.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  207.3 KB

Next up im finishing the Carbon Fiber intercooler to intake tube.
Then im gonna take with dual 3" mid pipe and merge to a 5" collector. Then it will be a 5" single out the side of the bed.

Name:  20210404_193550.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  175.5 KBName:  20210403_230551.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  211.4 KBName:  20210404_193718.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  207.8 KBName:  20210403_230936.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  141.8 KBName:  20210404_205306.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  262.5 KBName:  20210403_231050.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  200.2 KB

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
4/28/21 10:51 a.m.

Lots of work going on in multiple work streams.
Intercooler top is welded up. Carbon Fiber intake tube is roughed in.

Just got the machining on the billet intake flange done...

Name:  173206933_10159696462688888_1494657892495360947_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  85.1 KB

Name:  20210328_123518.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  345.3 KBName:  20210328_161423.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  218.2 KBName:  20210402_072608.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  137.6 KBName:  20210408_203529.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  242.9 KBName:  20210408_210606.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  233.1 KBName:  20210414_215859.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  265.9 KB

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
4/28/21 10:51 a.m.

[MEDIA=youtube]wJ35WDQrbMU[/MEDIA]

 

 

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
5/18/21 7:25 a.m.

Got a bunch of stuff in to start working on the dry sump system.
All ex-nascar bits.

These BMRS hoses are super light... Im digging them as well.Name:  20210502_141949.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  232.4 KBName:  20210506_232126.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  239.2 KBName:  20210510_164511.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  193.1 KBName:  20210509_223940.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  229.4 KB

New Video is up covering the details.

https://youtu.be/dgU-ZqaOpPQ

 

 



 

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
6/1/21 1:19 p.m.

I've been doing some CNC programming work for a buddy who recently picked up a really nice Haas VF2.
In return, hes been helping me out with some machine time. I got the billet intercooler flange modeled up, programmed and machined. Turned out great.
Im very pleased.Name:  20210420_232532.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  331.6 KBName:  20210422_224119.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  324.6 KBName:  Billet.JPG
Views: 0
Size:  56.1 KB

I then made a thin, threaded sandwich ring that fits inside of the intercooler. This is going to be fixed inside the intercooler and is actually what the flange bolts to. This keeps nuts out of the intake and prevents anything from vibrating loose and into the engine.

Name:  20210422_224135.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  204.1 KB

After that,

I tried my hand at home anodizing. This was my process:
 

  • Clean part and scrub with degreaser (wear gloves the whole time to not get finger print oils on the surface)
  • Soak part in lye bath (lye and distilled water in a bucket) for 3-10 minutes unit surface turns grey (its the aluminum oxide coming off the surface). This is $6 powdered drain cleaner from walmart. This is "de-smutting"
  • Rinse (tap water is fine for this and scrub off smut until part is pure white. Should almost rinse off like dust. If its not, it needs to be in the lye longer
  • Rinse with distilled water to remove any residual minerals from using tap water (i use a $1 spray bottle from walmart.
  • Put clean cathodes into acid bath. Sodium bisulphate or Sulphuric acid (20-30% molar concentration, ratios found online to avoid doing chemistry math lol). Cathodes should be at least double the surface area of the parts being anodized. Apply to negative terminal of power supply (i tried a battery charger but had to break down and buy a $60 power supply because the battery chargers are too smart now and shut off). Suspend part in bath on Aluminum or titanium wire. I recommend titanium wire because the aluminum errodes quickly and as it erodes the current density per surface area sky rockets. Then you charge the postive to the part. Use the 720 Rule calculators online for needed time and amperage. Voltage falls wherever it falls.
  • Pull part out after it is anodized and rinse it and nuetralize the acid with baking soda solution in a spray bottle. Then rinse with distilled water again. If you have any remaining acid, it wont take the dye.
  • Soak in a dye bath (dye of your choice and distilled water) at 140F. I used Rit dye to practice in a homedepot bucket with a "bucket heater" from amazon. It was like $24 and worked perfect. Soak until you get the desired pigmentation
  • Pull out and rinse off excess dye with distilled water.
  • Seal the part by boiling in distilled water for 20 minutes. (Again, bucket and same heater from step 7. Hope depot buckets are made of HDPE and can handle the temp of boiling water fine).
  • Done



Name:  20210515_153629.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  243.7 KBName:  20210516_190843.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  309.5 KBName:  20210516_194939.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  297.7 KBName:  20210516_210626.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  169.3 KBName:  IMG_20210514_215451_252.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  114.0 KB

Really happy with how it turned out. I need to finish my PID controlled curing oven and get this stuff baked. Then i will get some Tamco High Solids clear coat and be bonded together.
The metal parts were anodized strictly for electrical isolation from the carbon fiber to prevent galvanic corrosion. They will be cerakoted prior to final bonding.



 

 

loudandproud
loudandproud Reader
6/17/21 10:31 a.m.

Cranking along on the Dry Sump piping. Got a lot of Suuppppper nice BMRS hoses and im really digging em. Got all the Turbo feeds and drains finished up in stainless hard line and made up a little scavenging manifold for the turbos since they are low mount.

Name:  20210526_220907.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  294.8 KBName:  20210526_230551.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  307.8 KBName:  20210529_162246.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  146.2 KBName:  20210530_152209.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  310.9 KBName:  20210531_150502.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  223.0 KBName:  20210531_150513.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  148.2 KBName:  20210603_224825.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  190.9 KB Name:  193744441_10159805623358888_8223341196333646299_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  90.2 KBName:  193546724_10159819976953888_1277603238129110949_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  64.3 KBName:  201401102_10159841901633888_5257983081064919424_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  91.7 KB


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5BuMDXosFE


 

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa UberDork
6/17/21 11:04 a.m.
loudandproud said:

Cranking along on the Dry Sump piping. Got a lot of Suuppppper nice BMRS hoses and im really digging em. Got all the Turbo feeds and drains finished up in stainless hard line and made up a little scavenging manifold for the turbos since they are low mount.

BMRS are good people and seriously know their stuff.  Worked with them a lot in FSAE.  Quality products for sure.

1 ... 6 7 8 9

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
OvPyhun1ezF2bKvEXxuQIaqzeKcaPSxmKNF8pXTslEN8cYjgnaPr8ISdwzJkQuUA