When I was fitting the shock absorbers to the car, I noticed that extending the lower fork changed the path significantly. As a result, the drive shaft joint brushed against the fork when it rebounded. It's a chain reaction. My actual mistake was with the shock absorber bracket on the wishbone. I've now got to the point where I have to change the upper bracket as well to correct it. Changing the existing bracket isn't enough, it weakens the structure too much. So I'll draw it up and make a new one.
Small correction, because when fully compressed the 1 inch diameter tie rod touches the shock absorber.
In reply to SRPe_Matze :
The detail is just so far past comprehension. So we'll done man. I'm speechless.
Fluorescent thin red adhesive strip. A little highlight for everyone who unfortunately runs into trouble sometimes. I hope that this will be a little less.
finished in 5 days. Another wish/dream fulfilled.
The negatives were with the painter for 7 months. He was only supposed to fill, sand and paint the negatives. If you don't do everything yourself, you've lost.
now just finish sanding and painting
Completely manufactured in-house, unique worldwide and only similarly available on the factory Corvette GT1.
SRPe_Matze said:
many little things
Looking amazing, but I don't understand.
Based on any actual NACA submerged ramp designs I've looked up, the intake on the ones in the trunk lid look more like the ones available from a lot of speed shops. I imagine the difference in aerodynamic efficiency is substantial. Is that why you added the scoop? That seems to negate the point of using a submerged ramp intake in the first place (reduced drag compared to a scoop that's exposed to the air flow).
Of course, these should be placed in high pressure areas which I'm guessing your trunk lid isn't.
That's right, they are the usual air intakes that you can buy. Unfortunately, when you put them on from below, the step in the front area was created. The upper attachment is supposed to help. The air flow runs past the roof and should be in the optimal direction. The factory racing cars drove like that too. I also need the transition to the hose. I'll try to explain it better with pictures. I'm convinced that I've found my optimal solution in terms of appearance, function and history of the C5-R. Basically, the fans on the coolers of the gearbox and diff still help.
Basically, I pursue a personal middle path between personal ästhetic, functionality, my own ideas, financial possibilities and historical GM original factory racing car Corvette C5-R
A Corvette C5 Z06 R only existed as a prototype in 1999 and is in a museum in the USA. So I'm taking the liberty of creating my own car, which combines many great things and will still never be perfect, like a factory racing car.
gearbox has 2 coolers on top of each other and fan with thermal switch
The car is completely monitored and recorded. This means I can check, stop in time and make improvements. All fluids are monitored for pressure and temperature. A lot of things run autonomously with thermal switches. So I only have to pay attention to self-set limits/warnings on the display and evaluate and analyze data recordings. I have a few experts in the background who help me at the beginning until I have learned it.
and once again I can fulfill a dream. I had pushed this wish into the background because it is too expensive. You just have to wait until the right opportunity presents itself: get a brand new Bosch Race ABS Block M5 Kit 1 at a reasonable price. I'll start with that. A few sensors and the wiring harness are still missing. I have already managed to organize some things.
It's crazy how quickly you can get the missing parts to the kit together once you start. And all new and below market price. Contacts help.
I also drew a holder for the block and had it CNC machined, as well as designed a sensor holder for both circuits with pressure sensors for the ABS and the engine control unit/display. This will also be manufactured soon.
Another look at the big picture before the summer break.
then we continue. Finish sanding and painting the hood; sanding and painting the gills; making the engine wiring harness and completing all other wiring; installing and wiring the ABS; and lots of other small and large things to finally be finished sometime next year
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