Datsun Roadster: 2020 Challenge Build

I really like the looks of that tank sitting there. 

Great news today! First test no leaks. I'm very happy.

I'm working on final cleaning up of the fuel tank (the top is filthy and the mounting tabs have all kinds of sharp edges) so I can reinstall the cap and call it done. Woo. hoo.

Next up, the engine mount plates get real.

179 hours. 

I think the gas tank is just about done. 

I started to put the top back on only to wonder why there was 3 gaskets. I quickly realized that the hole in the tank was slightly too small. Joy. So I busted out the Dremel and opened it up more. But that means I filled the tank with metal shavings again. So I need to clean it again. Also, the gaskets were shot so I used the same piece of rubber to make a new one.

Tank also had all sharp edges removed, so it is much less likely to bite me later.

Just need to clean the fresh shavings out of the tank, reinstall the pump, and I can call this tank done, finally.

Wait, not quite. I have one AN fitting that I need to convert from a hose attachment into a cap. But there are a lot of ways to do that.

Shorten the bolts a bit - stainless acorn nuts = happy fuel tank.

Lookin' good. keep 'em going.

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

There's even a better one on pg 14. (That's over 100 hours of work ago, wow!)

I still think you need to channel and section this thing until the tires touch the tops of the fenders and the airbox looks like it's sitting on a luggage rack.  Most of the sheet metal you remove should be good recoup as patch panels if sold to somebody whose Datsun is returning to the earth from the bottom up.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

There's even a better one on pg 14. (That's over 100 hours of work ago, wow!)

I still think you need to channel and section this thing until the tires touch the tops of the fenders and the airbox looks like it's sitting on a luggage rack.

I approve of this message 

They're right, you know.

At the very least, channel until the lower edge of the front bumper makes a perfect place to attach the splitter. 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

At the very least, channel until the lower edge of the grille opening makes a perfect place to attach the splitter. 

FTFY

Dusterbd13-michael said:

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

There's even a better one on pg 14. (That's over 100 hours of work ago, wow!)

I still think you need to channel and section this thing until the tires touch the tops of the fenders and the airbox looks like it's sitting on a luggage rack.

I approve of this message 

Put me down as another vote for this plan. ;)

A while back I mentioned my friend's roadster with the 3.0 from a 300zx in it. California wanted this crushed so he bought it for $50 and built it. Here is some inspiration:

Sorry for the brief hyjacking. Keep up the great work!

In reply to preach :

If you're going to post stuff like that, feel free to hijack anytime!

For everyone else, don't worry about low! It will be low. I'll give you an idea in some of the pics in this post.

Today was a huge step forward. Since it was rainy, I couldn't do any yardwork, so I guess I just had to hang out in the garage instead. Hahaha. 6 hours today puts me to 185.

I decided I should probably mount a few more things before I take this back apart to do the final engine mounts. I started laying out the wiring harness, and labeling connectors using the wiring diagram in my manual.

Nexti looked at the plastic underseat moulding that holds much of the electronics on the bike. This one that came with my pile of gsxr stuff was broken in a few spots and "modified" in others.

But, most of the good stuff was still in good shape. This will work well to hold my battery, ecu, fusebox, main relay, and various other relays and stuff.

Comes with metal bracket and odd modification as well.

So I started cutting (sheet metal shears work great, and the Dremel can clean up any sharp edges easy). I also raided the scrap metal from the old frame and found a bracket with a hole. I drilled a hole in the plastic and held them together with this push clip.

I used the screws that were holding that license plate bracket to mount this square tube underneath the battery.

Held in it place and tacked them on. Then took it all apart and welded both.

Put it all back together and it looks pretty nice. And I left the tube under the battery a little long incase I need to put a battery tie down out there.

I was very happy with how that came out, and how well it packages together. Here it is with the radiator and fuel tank all together. For those curious about low, the top of the fuel tank should be about even with the top of the trunk lid via rough measurements.

​​​​​​

And from the side.

Then I finished labeling the wiring harness and found everything necessary. Except this sweet previous owner mod:

I looked in the big box that had this harness in it, and I found the connector, luckily whoever did the mod really felt like leaving the long enough wires on the harness end, not the connector end. I do think this is one of the sensors I need to extend anyway, but I hope there is enough to crimp to.

I will also have to extend the 3 front harnesses. The headstock harness is the gauge cluster and the front lights, then each handlebar harness needs extended as well so I can have the control switches up front.

Finally I mounted the rectifier (diode pack?).

And the remote idle control screw!

like I said, big day!

You should be able to depin the connector and pry the pins off the wire and crimp them onto longer wires.  I had to do a bunch of that with the hacked off pcm connectors for my datsun.  If not challenge budget i wouldn't have figured that out

Not much 'work' on the car this morning, but I DID sell the carbs from the vf750 motor that was on this frame when I got it (wow - thanks ebay!). I also have some interest in a few other parts and spent some time grabbing better photos this morning. $86.70 in recoup from those carbs after ebay and paypal fees isn't bad at all. 

Patrick - good call. I might have to try that. I never seem to have much luck depinning connectors, but maybe now is the time to learn. 

You are gonna hafta peel this car like an onion when you need to work on things!

In reply to gumby :

I'm pretty sure this is the plan, maybe in reverse:

In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :

Making it tilt to the side might be more practical, given how small it is. 

Front tilt is the plan 100%. But I'm trying to keep everything mounted pretty centrally and as a unit. Lots of reasons, but mostly because the bike was like that stock, and it all fits together pretty well. 

I am trying to keep difficulty of working on this in mind while I build, which is why I'm focused on removing all sharp edges and using fasteners that have captured nuts, or welded nuts, or threaded holes so one tool can be used to remove a fastener instead of needing two.

Also, I removed 4 bolts this morning and disconnected some electrical connectors and did this:

It all came off as one big unit, so that's cool. But even then, it's only 10 fasteners to take this whole thing apart too (3 rad, 4 tank, 3 electronics tray).

I also depinned that radiator temp connector today. It was super easy, I've never had that much luck depinning anything before. Score! There might be enough wire left to crimp on some new wire and heat shrink them as well.

619th post (my birthday is 6/19), and 187 hours (1987), interesting!

I started attacking the old vf750 engine to get the mounts off. Nothing like some physical labor in the morning!

Might be able to sell that exhaust, and I'll definitely keep the nice hardware! Cutting starts tomorrow.

I've been bad about updates because I'm kinda stuck.

I'm taking the rear axle apart because I need to flip the sprocket around. And taking this thing apart is proving very difficult for me. I did cut the old Honda frame apart a bit before I realized the mounts are too short for me. Doh!

Here's the rear axle progress. It's slow going. Everything has to slide off the axle, and it's clearly been like this for a long time. The set screws are all coming out fine, but it's getting the stuff to slide that is difficult. I've got both hubs off, and the brake disk is loose, and one of the 4 bearings is loose. Still have 4 bearings and the sprocket to go.

Ended this morning like this:

I also got fed up with my giant mess this weekend and spent a few hours cleaning up. So I'm not counting the cleaning hours in the build.

I'm at 189 hours now.

What diameter is that axle?

I had some fun with that on my Fmod recently.  Here are the tips on what got me through.

Slide hammer, PB blaster, really fine grit sandpaper (clean up rough areas you need to move something over).

For a few things I wound up using C-clamps as a puller.  I have some that use threaded pipe sections to lengthen, so I can make the length of the axle. 

similar to below, but mine came from my grandfathers tools.

https://www.amazon.com/PONY-55-Clamp-Fixture-4-Inch/dp/B00C1YXCUS

2 of these, some pipe, and some metal pieces to go between, perhaps with a C notch cut in to go around the axle. 

I dont think these would ding your challenge budget, they are useful for tons of things. 

It's a 1 inch diameter axle, with a standard keyway. 1/4 inch I think? And that is not a bad idea on the clamps, thanks!

I did use my sand and strip disk on the angle grinder to clean off all the old paint and such on the axle that I could get to. 2 of 4 bearings are completely off now (both outers) and 1 of the other two is at least moving on the shaft when I give it a whack. The problem is the more I take it apart the less effective each hammer blow becomes, because the assembly just moves. Doh. 

The sprocket and the last bearing are still stuck. Unfortunately I need to not damage this stuff taking it apart, so I'm trying to be "gentle".  Tomorrow I get after the sprocket with some heat. 

190 hours. 

Edit adding photo

Deburr and wire wheel your keyway. You have some damage there that's going to cause clearance issues. 

Then use some wood blocks against the chassis points for the hubs to rest on and go to town with a soft face hammer on the axle end to drive it through. Alternatively can protect the end with a block of wood and the heaviest hammer you can comfortably and accurately swing. A bigger hammer you can't get your weight behind will do less work than a lighter hammer you can get angry with. 

I'm assuming this has a spring clip retainer on the end of the axle, if so be careful not to deform it. 

Of course, the "proper" way to do this is with a bearing separator and some long all thread. 

If it's really being a bitch... Cut the flanges so the axle lifts out and break it all down in a shop press. It will take less time to weld it back together than berkeleying with stuck hubs.