Speaking noise, the compressor room mostly got its door door yesterday.
I spray foamed the gaps thinking every little bit helps with noise. Tonight I'll trim the foam an throw the molding on and the construction is finish....well....I need to paint the door I guess, and I know the even though Lana accepted the powder room she'll have towel racks and such for me to install but she's doing the final paint and agreed I was free.
The important thing is now I can pick up all the construction tools and be done with that mess.
The 3D printer can move upstairs now and I can start thinking about printing wheel molds. After looking at tire options.....the 315 I wanted mostly because it looks good seems to be mid grade or full race but 285/295 is made by everyone in every grade and a sticky 285 will almost certainly beat a not so stick 315 so I'm now thinking the change just doesn't make sense.....which changes priorities a bit as I no longer need the engine in the car for wheel fitting.....so after construction mess is picked up the engine can come out and a running engine has to be #1 on the to-do list.
Will the compressor be able to get fresh air to compress? Intake CFM >= compressor rated CFM? Any chance it will over-heat inside it's new room?
In reply to Sparkydog :
Right now there is about 1/2" air gap along the bottom of the door which I would think would be enough make-up air. The wall to the shop space is not insulated and its an interior door so not sealed.
The heat though is a concern....I'll have to watch it and see. This time of year there is no issue but come summer well......especially if I don't have a functioning AC system in the shop by summer which is likely since my comfort in the shop is rated way lower than Lana happy with the house driveway and doors meaning no money for my stuff until after her stuff is bought so my new noise door may spend summer opened and worthless.
I have a bit of unsolicited advice about making your own carbon wheels. Free advice and worth every penny. :)
In principle, once the models and molds are created, doing 6 wheels instead of 4 should not be a huge increment in time or effort - although it's obviously a 50% increase in material costs. If you make 3 fronts and 3 rears, you could do the following:
This would set lower bounds for the strength of the wheels that you have left.
In reply to Syscrush :
Methinks you mean the "Hoodraulic" Press Channel
In reply to Syscrush :
I'm going to start with fiberglass...its SOOOO much cheaper to play with..Play with layup in a few difficult areas, probably make a full wheel to look at and break/cut apart. Then make a call on whether I'm ready to go to. carbon..haven't really thought about the next CF rounds yet. i have the design about where I think I want it...just thicken the wall around the hub OD under the bolds and design thew way I want to do the inserts for the bolts. The ribs that make it look 308ish are bad...they are stress risers so my current though is that since I probably want to paint the wheels silver I can do the ribs in fiberglass so they are softer and don't see anywhere near the stress. The fillets where the spokes meet the hub and rim will be solid and used as an overlap zone to tie the layups together.
Then last is the I'm eying an epoxy from fiber glast that will room temp cure so it can then can be removed from the mold prior to a post treatment cycle the raise the glass transition temp up well over hot tire temps...so all the molding and vacuum bagging stuff don't need to be high temp which saves lots of money.
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/high-temp-epoxy-resin-3000/Epoxy_Resins
I currently work in the dental industry which has introduced me to "stone"...which is a kind of plaster for model making. It's a pretty cheap way to make parts. I'm thinking print 1/5th then make 5 stone casts to get a full wheel quick and cheap. I'm also thinking molds for the foam to fill the hollow sections...honestly hardware store spray foam would do fine but I may order the 2 part stuff, haven't gotten that far thinking wise yet.
.
Sounds like a great approach.
I think that you obviously have plenty of resources of your own, but I'm sharing this because I think it's a great tutorial about working with composites. Maybe you or some of the other avid readers of this thread would find it helpful.
mke said:In reply to Syscrush :
The ribs that make it look 308ish are bad...they are stress risers so my current though is that since I probably want to paint the wheels silver I can do the ribs in fiberglass so they are softer and don't see anywhere near the stress. The fillets where the spokes meet the hub and rim will be solid and used as an overlap zone to tie the layups together.
Something to consider for the ribs would be to machine them from carbon bar stock and bond them on. I'm just a software guy, but to me it seems like doing so should mitigate issues with dissimilar materials, avoid adding stress risers, and add strength with minimal weight penalty.
Syscrush said:Something to consider for the ribs would be to machine them from carbon bar stock and bond them on. I'm just a software guy, but to me it seems like doing so should mitigate issues with dissimilar materials, avoid adding stress risers, and add strength with minimal weight penalty.
The problem is that they are the tallest part of the section so in bending they are in the highest stress, but too narrow to really be much help so then the flat section below needs to be much thicker to make it stiff enough to limit the strain in the ribs....just wasted weight. Making the ribs glass or even kevlar either of which in much less stiff means the ribs can flex with the rest of the section and not be over stressed and can basically be considered decorative.....I'll see if I can find an FEA program and make some pretty stress pictures
Syscrush said:Sounds like a great approach.
I think that you obviously have plenty of resources of your own, but I'm sharing this because I think it's a great tutorial about working with composites. Maybe you or some of the other avid readers of this thread would find it helpful.
So I read through the whole thread and saw a lot of nice work. He talks a bit about my biggest concern with a wet layup vs prepreg which is layers moving around and he abandoned the 2x2 weave saying it was stiffer and worse....I'm planing to do use a .025" thick 2x2 to get the required build thickness at reasonable cost, but that stuff is stiff...that scares me a bit. Prepreg is sticky and stays where you put it for the most part from everything I've seen and read, I've never actually worked with it but I'm pretty sure there is a good reason EVERYONE making fancy parts uses it. If I do the tooling in "stone" as I'm semi-planning to do then high temp curing is not an issue and I could fal,l back to the more expensive prepreg stuff.
Then I was a little concerned that it appeared the he did 5 layers by making 5 copies of the pattern he made which means all the seams/cuts line up or nearly line up, a big no-no structurally and something I've been spending quite a lto off time thinking about how best to avoid, particularly at direction changes like where spokes meet the rim and hub. I'm kind of planning to use the lager fillets and the hollow spaces in the spokes as places to hid overlap.....but until I get molds made and start playing with stuff I'm really not sure how successful any of this will be.
I've been slumbering for the winter and only saw this in the magazine. I'm on page 6 and I still don't understand at all what is going on or how this is happening, but I'll just leave this here.
mke said:i do not love driving loud cars. I do not love when others drive loud cars. So I TRY not to build them.
I HATE fart can sounding exhausts so I TRY not to build those.
This needs a lot of flow.....with big pipes....I decided this was going to be a make the bst of it solution. I bough a pair of 2" mufflers that should be reasonably quite but are only good for about 250hp. Then I bough a set of borla 3" multicore mufflers that won't be quite but flow about 750-800hp and should stop the big pip drone. Then I bought a pair of vacuum operated cut-out valves for the 3" mufflers that I wil connect to the ECU and let it decide when the valve need to be open so normal driving will be quiteish, shift acceleration probably not so much.
Not sure if there is a way to do this DIY like some OEM exhaust solutions where you have two outlets from the big muffler and one of them has a valve on it that is closed at low throttle and open at high throttle. That's how the C6 Z06 exhaust works. Keeps it quiet when cruising, but makes noise when you get on it.
Harvey said:Not sure if there is a way to do this DIY like some OEM exhaust solutions where you have two outlets from the big muffler and one of them has a valve on it that is closed at low throttle and open at high throttle. That's how the C6 Z06 exhaust works. Keeps it quiet when cruising, but makes noise when you get on it.
That's basically what I built. I know its a bit cleaner looking and probably lighter with everything in 1 case but parts is parts and it fits in the space I have so I think its about as good as it can get....or maybe needs to get is more accurate......at least until my new wheels and deck lids are finished and I'm still looking to cut weight, then I might make a new muffler :)
In reply to mke :
What I’ve done is use the chassis to provide muffling. Instead of dumping the exhaust behind the engine, run it forward aimed at the ground towards the center of the car. (But behind the drivers compartment )Thus air flowing underneath the car does the muffling.
Granted I did it to a turbo charged JagV12 and the turbos provide some muffling. But with no other mufflers at all I was able to drive it on the road and then at the racetrack which normally requires mufflers to not trip the DB meter I could race without any muffler.
Granted if I was all by myself and the level was 92 db I’d feather it just slightly when I was just passing the meter. ( and I stayed on the far side of the track) If there was anyone around me I didn’t bother feathering, kept my foot flat on the floor.
Since even muffled cars were black flagged I clearly must have had things about right.
The one thing I didn’t like about that setup was the inability to hear a really clean exhaust note
In reply to frenchyd :
I've been black flagged at the track on my H-D running an OEM muffler I pulled from a GSXR figuring it was a factory street muffler, it'll be fine!....nope!
I love the frame rail exhaust idea but I'd have to measure to be certain but I'm pretty sure the exhaust pips is a lager cross section than the frame rail...which I guess just means I need a bigger stronger frame :)
In reply to mke :
If you think about how a muffler works you’ll realize that the underbody of a car acts much the same way, even more so. Tailpipes concentrate the sound energy and spit it out over a relatively small area. Sort of the way a musical and instrument does.
But if you scatter that energy across the whole underbelly of the car and add extra air to it, the sound gets muffled.
Look at the tailpipes of school buses. School busses used to have a notable “rap” to them but modern buses have a standard pipe leading into a much bigger pipe with an open end towards the front of the bus. Even though modern buses make much more power they are quieter due to the addition of air to disperse the sound.
I can't find the post now but some pages back someone asked why I don't just build a dyno and I explained all the reasons.....but just agreed to put one in the shop because yes I am that foolish.
I got a txt from a buddy asking if the new shop was finished yet?......
just doing a little finish up, hopefully this weekend wraps it up, why?
I still need a home for my dyno and I know you need a dyno sheet for your engine.
.....10 or 12 txt later I agreed to let him setup his 1600hp engine dyno in my shop. Its more a collection of parts than a working dyno so nothing may come of it but it will be awfully hard to not get it working and try it just once with it sitting right there. Here we go........
In reply to mke :
Congratulations!!
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Well see if its congrats on a great victory or a quagmire
Just made an offer on 4 or these thinking what goes better with a buddy's engine dyno than a chassis adapter for it....hopefully I get them.
mke said:Well see if its congrats on a great victory or a quagmire
Just made an offer on 4 or these thinking what goes better with a buddy's engine dyno than a chassis adapter for it....hopefully I get them.
Picking them up Saturday.
I don't know if it is getting old yet but HOLY CRAP. Thank you for sharing.
In reply to Aaron_King :
Thanks.
So the "dyno" has no controller or software or any of that really expensive stuff...but I'm pretty sure I can use that ecu and interface software to run the engine, do the data collection and logging and also control the dyno. I emailed enginelab Jim today to confirm and he thinks that I could do 1 better and create virtual channels which run in the pc not the ecu so the ecu hardware is just passing the signals dyno yo pc and back. I frikin love this ecu, best money I ever spent.
You all might be starting to get a sense of just how easily I get distracted and why this is at 11 years and counting :)
From a hand welded together Ferrari V12, to handmade carbon fiber wheels, to now an in house cobbled together engine dyno... where will he go next everyone?
Side question.. what have you been driving on the weekdays/weekends for the 11 years this thing has been in pieces?
Sometimes parts break. Sometimes a car loses a wheel, I've lost a couple over the years....., wait, 3 as I lost the front wheel off a motorcycle once too, that kind of sucked but the car wheels?...eh, annoying at most.
mke said:Sometimes parts break. Sometimes a car loses a wheel, I've lost a couple over the years....., wait, 3 as I lost the front wheel off a motorcycle once too, that kind of sucked but the car wheels?...eh, annoying at most.
WHAT
It's like I want to hear the story, but seeing as that's pretty much my biggest fear and all, I don't know if I need that rattling around in my helmet every time I fire up the yamaha from now on..
You'll need to log in to post.
