Awesome build, can't wait to see this one get going!
Awesome build, can't wait to see this one get going!
A triangular engine mount crossmember should give all the stiffness you'd need. Sort of like this, just flipped over:
and run a internal brace from the bottom of each of the engine mount pads to the apex of the triangle.
Update coming 
Raze came over today and dug in to this wiring with me. I mostly just stood around as he zipped around the car splitting looms and tracking wires. Fast forward a few hours and a new battery later and the motor is spinning. Still no spark but it's close. And the best part is the starter is spinning because of the connector on the ignition harness not just running power straight there. SO, power is energizing the harness and doing what it needs to do. Whew a lot of the hard stuff is being accomplished slowly but surely.
Anybody have any ideas on what I should check with the wiring if I can get the starter to work but no spark? Immobilizer, clutch switch etc etc...Anybody do a Suby swap and run into something like that?
Also I have played with the tailshaft and tried to get this thing into neutral but everytime I hit the starter the axles move a little. So my other question is how to get this thing into neutral?
Thanks!
Ive done more then a few engine swaps (ls1 corvair, Northstar fiero). The problem always ends up being a ground.
That being said invest in a power probe. $100 and the best electrical tool you can have
project looks great
Crank:
What engine is it? I just did an EJ22 into a Beetle. No spark at all in the Subaru, got tired of trying to troubleshoot it in the car, so swapped it, stripped the harness for the Beetle. Lo and behold, spark on all 4 in the Beetle.
Grounds are a good bet. If your grounds are good to go, check the ignitor and coil, as they occasionally die.
Start tracing where the electrons stop working. So no spark at the cylinders - is there power to the coil pack? Is there power going into the ECU? If it's anything like a bmw, the ecu is synchronized to an immobilizer
If there's power to the ecu and no power signal out, there is some sort of immobilizer feature that needs to be jumped out...
I've had a clutch "freeze" onto the flywheel/pressure plate when it sat for a while assembled. I don't know if that's the case for you.
snayson1 wrote: I've had a clutch "freeze" onto the flywheel/pressure plate when it sat for a while assembled. I don't know if that's the case for you.
Hmm hope not. But I'll try to operate the slave by hand when starting and see what happens.
Grounds are always good to add. I have the larger ones grounded already but some little oddball ones are still straggled around.
What year is the engine/ecu from?
If the clutch slave cylinder works but the clutch is still 'stuck', put the trans in 4th gear, then push the clutch pedal to the floor and have some friends push the car. The clutch should pop loose.
Before going any further with the ECU connctions, I hope you have a wiring diagram. Doing that without a diagram is a sure route to madness and possible release of magic smoke.
Curmudgeon wrote: If the clutch slave cylinder works but the clutch is still 'stuck', put the trans in 4th gear, then push the clutch pedal to the floor and have some friends push the car. The clutch should pop loose. Before going any further with the ECU connctions, I hope you have a wiring diagram. Doing that without a diagram is a sure route to madness and possible release of magic smoke.
The clutch pedal isn't connected yet. I haven't run the line. Also I do have a wiring diagram somehow saved but it's too big to email. I'll need to host it somewhere.
The drivetrain is from a 1997 JDM Impreza STI (Ver 4 I believe)
JohnInKansas wrote: Grounds are a good bet. If your grounds are good to go, check the ignitor and coil, as they occasionally die.
I know the coil is good because I got it running in the Subaru clip in my garage. However after transferring harnesses some things inevitably may have been overlooked.
Even in neutral the wheels will move just a little or very slowly. That's the drag from the fluid in the gearbox. Just make sure you can move the wheels in neutral before you start, and you should be ok.
Curmudgeon wrote: or something with AN fittings. If you do go with a clampable hose fitting, Goodyear makes a high pressure hose with a blue liner that's the best I have ever used.
Where can I get this hose, and what is it called? How do you hook up AN fittings to it, or do I need to get some aeroquip type stuff?
Teh E36 M3 wrote: Even in neutral the wheels will move just a little or very slowly. That's the drag from the fluid in the gearbox. Just make sure you can move the wheels in neutral before you start, and you should be ok.
Now that makes sense because in one position it just creeps (probably neutral) and the other positions it's moving fast (obviously in gear)
In reply to Teh E36 M3:
That's a Goodyear SAE 30R9 fuel injection bulk hose which I have bought it at AutoZone before. Sorry, I don't know of a way to adapt it to AN fittings. I used it on the Jensenator at the engine end of things because the stock 13B FI stuff was all set up for beaded hose slip on fittings, converting it to AN would have meant a whole bunch of brazing fittings etc. I can't see this hose being compatible with the common brass barbed fittings.
Here's Goodyear's spec page on the stuff:
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144
It looks like they quit with the blue liner, it's now black but the same basic stuff. There are brass swivel fittings out there which can be used with clamp on hose, but they are 45 degree flare and AN is 37 degree flare, so they are not compatible.
On my 914-EJ20G swap I gave up on the stock ECU and installed a MS2 inside the factory ECU case. Just clip out the connector and run jumpers to the db37 position on the board.
I am running the stock coil pack, wasted spark from MS. runs well.
jpnovak wrote: On my 914-EJ20G swap I gave up on the stock ECU and installed a MS2 inside the factory ECU case. Just clip out the connector and run jumpers to the db37 position on the board. I am running the stock coil pack, wasted spark from MS. runs well.
Yeah I just REALLY want the stock computer to do that work if at all possible. I don't plan on making any more than stock power in this so I just want to keep it simple. Hopefully this is just is a situation that I have all the ingredients already but just need to do more legwork tracing things.
Look at JIC fittings instead of AN.
Love this build, just wondering if there's been any updates.
Rxbalt wrote: Love this build, just wondering if there's been any updates.
Hey there. Unfortunately not really. I've been doing this thing for over a year and a half straight so I've taken some time away from it to actually work a ton of overtime. That sounds weird but working a lot and getting more funds keeps me more motivated than just staring at it wondering "what next "?
I'm picking up an intact 73 240z in a few weeks and it will give me that old car boost again and I suspect ill be.back on the fubaru wagon in June or so maybe sooner if I can get the wiring figured out.
crankwalk wrote: fubaru wagon
I think you just committed yourself to the next project. ;-)
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