What we've done with carb race cars (been a while!) is run a 10 psi pump and then kick it down with the regulator. We ran about 6 psi if I remember right. But that was dual mikuni's so I'd probably start by looking at your current pressure readings before you touch anything.
In reply to jh36 :
I was thinking along those lines. My main purpose for bringing all of this up is to ensure I know what part to buy if it does fail. Also, Bill suggested that some of these after market pumps might be rebuildable. So knowing what I have is key. It could mean the difference between buying a $160+ pump or $25 rebuild kit.
Thanks for the input, Jack!
These are some of the other items on the list of stuff to do.
Inspect the clutch and the transmission. Need to know what clutch and flywheel I have. Also want to take a closer look at the shift linkages. When I had that issue at Summit Point where it jammed between gears it makes me think it needs some tightening up somewhere. Honestly, I don't even know how to remove the driveshaft. Last and only time I messed with one was 30+ years ago. (the e36 driveshaft doesn't count. No u-joints.)
The battery cuttoff and fire extinguisher pull need to be moved so they're more easily accessible to a safety crew.
Build a dash box to mount the gauges and switches. Leaning toward carbon fiber for the top and aluminum for the gauge pod. Right now, the gauges are mounted to the firewall and I can't easily read them.
Droop limiters for the rear suspension.
Driveshaft is easy. Four nuts hold 2 U bolts to the rear diff, then the input shaft slides out of the transmission.
Might be worth having the trans gone through. My guy charged $500 labor plus parts. Made a world of difference in how easy it shifted when he did mine.
In reply to HalfFast :
Yeah, I just crawled out from under there and saw how easy the rear joint is to unbolt. Like you said. As for having the trans looked at, you like spending my money, don't you?! 
If you pull the shaft, mark the orientation before. (Front and rear) You know you're in balance now.
In reply to jh36 :
Thanks! I definitely wouldn't have known to do that.
jh36 said:If you pull the shaft, mark the orientation before. (Front and rear) You know you're in balance now.
Splain this one to me.
In reply to HalfFas
i don't know if that shaft was balanced, but I would mark the orientation as cheap insurance.
In reply to HalfFast :
I think Jack means to mark the rear to its orientation with the diff and mark the front to its orientation with the trans.
That is what I mean...thanks for translating Jim. Maybe it's not necessary but I've always done it...somewhere along the line, somebody I respected told me that was a good idea I guess.
ok, I get it now.
The front yoke stays attached to the shaft, it's orientation won't change. The rear can only go in two ways. Either would work.
The situation where you need to worry is in a 2 piece shaft. The middle joint needs to go back where it was if you change the u-joint or disassemble it.
Don't forget to tape the u-joint cups to the joint. Them little bearings are a pita to put back in
Driveshaft is out and, yeah, it was easy.
I marked the diff end because it is getting separated from the yoke but I'm not doing anything to the front yoke so I didn't mark it. I measured the shaft at 44 1/2" (center to center of the u-joint caps). The tube is 41 3/4". It's a steel driveshaft but very light.
When I measure the u-joints I'm getting 3.2295" between the ends of the caps. The caps are about 1.063 in diameter. They're Spicer joints but they don't have any markings other than what looks like D P M. All of the references I found online show slightly different measurements so either I'm not doing it right or my calipers are off. But based on what's closest, it looks to be a 1310 series u-joint. I ordered a couple of new u-joints and u-bolts to keep on hand.
That dark band near the close end of the shaft looks like something got wrapped around the shaft at some point. It's down to bare metal but only the paint is missing. It doesn't look or feel gouged. There isn't anything near the shaft that could have done that.
Continuing with transmission removal...I didn't really have any reason to remove the it except to inspect the clutch and figure out what size it is. Plus, it's probably good experience.
Exhaust center section out.
All of the joints are slip joints and are held together loosely with these. At least whoever built the exhaust was kind enough to position all of them where they were fairly easy to access. I do wish it was stainless steel.
The transmission is not quite as friendly. The two bolts on the driver side that mount the trans to the bell housing cannot be removed with a socket or even a box end wrench. Open end wrench only. Fortunately, once they're loose, they come out pretty easily with fingers. Bolts on the passenger side are accessible with a socket.
I tried to remove the trans with the shift linkage installed but it was a no-go. I removed the linkage the easiest way I could see which was to remove the three indicated nuts for the linkage and then remove the three bolts that hold the mount at the back of the trans. There was still barely enough room to slide the trans back far enough for the input shaft to clear the clutch. Took a little finagling. Going in isn't going to be as easy in the confined space. But I have to say, this was still much easier than the R&R of the trans in my e36!
Finally, I now know what size my clutch is.
I guess it's a 3-disc clutch? This is looking into the front opening of the bell housing. I'm not really sure how to tell how much clutch wear there is. I'm considering just buying new clutch discs and seeing if there's any difference in the spacing between the plates. I was concerned about it because, when I bought the car, the previous owner drove it onto the trailer and slipped the clutch quite a bit trying not to run me over as I was guiding him in.
The bell housing is sandwiched between the engine mount plate and the engine. So in order to remove it, I'll have to support the rear of the engine.
The starter was another PITA. It would be impossible to R&R without removing the transmission. The bottom bolt is inaccessible with anything unless the trans is out of the way. I found one little oddity with the starter. There was a small wire attached to the main power terminal. Just a short wire with a female space connector. No idea what it might have been for.
Here's the unit:
On the clutch, you can't tell by looking at it if it's worn. The new discs are 0.534″ thick, worn out is 0.528″. They are typically sintered brass.
Pay close attention when you take loose the clutch stack. There are 2 identical discs, with raised shoulders, one without the raised shoulders. When you reassemble, the raised shoulders point away from each other on the outside ends.
On the transmission, I don't see any cooler lines. Does it have a cooler?
I got nothing on the wire on the starter. Perhaps there is a need for some ignition device or fuel injection system to know when the starter is cranking. <shrug>
Wow. Only 6 thou 'til worn. Thanks for the tips.
No cooler on the trans. I'm going to pretend I don't need one.
You're probably right on the wire on the starter. I'm betting this car had EFI at some point. I think I'll just remove that to offset some of the weight I added with the battery hold-down. 
Found an amateur video that half-ass covers a rebuild on a T101. It's not very thorough but it did help me understand this box a little better. Enough that I wouldn't be afraid to remove the side plate to inspect the gears and dog plates. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ie3OPLqT-y4
EDIT: The above video is not that good but it is about T101 transmission. This one is better but it covers the T10, which is similar to the T101 but is synchronized. https://youtu.be/zhUJD2PBmE0 Thanks to BK05 for finding that.
Heres a video of a Super T10, not a straight cut gear box but I believe its what all the Tex Racing, Jerico's etc. are based off of. Hope this helps. https://youtu.be/zhUJD2PBmE0
In reply to BKO5 :
Thanks! I saw one of his other videos but was concerned it would be too different because of the synchronizers. I watched that one and it's certainly better than the one I linked. Might be worth investing in his books.
One of the several reasons for removing my transmission was so I could figure out my gear ratios. I looked all over the transmission but they were not written or stamped anywhere. Then I decided to reattach the shifter assembly so I could see how it worked. So I dragged the shifter out from under the car and bolted it back on. As I was futzing around making vroom noises there it was! Right there on the shifter mounting plate! Another mystery solved.
In reply to jimgood :
While it's out, center the shift levers and make sure the rods are adjusted correctly. If they are misadjusted, that could lead to your lockup issue.
In reply to HalfFast :
I know nothing about these adjustments so I went to the YT channel for the same transmission builder and found that he has a video on installing and adjusting a Hurst shifter on a Muncie. While it's specific to that combo, it's got a lot of very good general information and the shifter mechanism is similar enough to mine that I might be able to do this.
In reply to jimgood :
That's it!
At about 32 minutes in, where the transmission linkages are all in neutral, and the shifter is locked in neutral make sure the rods aren't too long or too short to connect the two. On yours the rods are just a turn buckle to it should be really simple to adjust if necessary
Yes, sir!
At 20:19, where he describes the shifter body and how it has a pin to lock it in the ideal neutral position, my shifter is slightly different. Mine doesn't have any holes in the levers even though it does have the notch (white arrow). So I just had to align them by eye and keep them aligned as I was making my adjustments (black arrow). I also decided to leave my shifter bolted on but had to use a wedge to keep it from flopping backwards (red arrow).
Once the rods were adjusted for length in the neutral position and connected, I removed the wedge and adjusted the stops. To do that, I moved the shifter in to 1st and snugged up the stop bolt on the rear of the shifter body. Then checked that it also works the same for 3rd. Shift into 2nd and snug up the front stop bolt and check 4th. Then make sure it goes through all the gears smoothly.
There's one thing that I'm a little concerned about. Even with the rods disconnected, if I move the arms on the side of the trans in to either 2nd or 4th, they pop out with just fingertip force. Whereas in 1st or 3rd I need to use the heel of my hand and quite a bit of force. I should probably look at the internal shift levers to see if they're bent.
In reply to jimgood :
While you have it open, check the main wear points.
This isn't a Tex, but it's similar. The shift collars wear in the valleys and the forks (arrow) causing extra slop.
the dogs on both sides should be sharp, and one side should be slightly back cut (most circled below)
Definitely different than mine.
I drained it first. The magnetic drain plug had some chips on it and the o-rings on both plugs (fill and drain) are shredded. By some miracle, I have o-rings that fit.
Once drained, I opened the side cover. First thing I noticed is that they used silicone sealant and sealant on the bolt threads. A few small pieces fell into the case because of course they did. The shift forks look straight and the detents feel very good and tight. When I put the cover back on and tested again, I found that my earlier testing was probably flawed. I don't think I was getting the full movement for 2nd and 4th gear so that's why they were popping out so easily. So I need to readjust my stops because I clearly did that wrong. The grooves in the shift forks have some evidence of heat discoloration.
Looking inside, everything looks mostly good. There is only one dog engagement with some chips on the edges and they're tiny. I watched all those videos and I'm still not sure which gear this is. In the picture above, it's the gear that is center/right (2nd?).
Here's a close up of the damaged dogs. This pretty much accounts for the metal chips on the drain plug. I'm going to have to run it because I don't have the budget for a new gear, dog ring and the labor to install it.
Make sure to rotate the input shaft so it actually drops fully into gear.
Mine cost about $1500 parts and labor. There's little magic with these transmissions. Maybe a DIY?
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