I bought a Birkin

So, spool gun came in.  I would like to say that, I've never welded aluminum with a spool gun.   Ever....

I went and Hooked up the gun to the welder.  
can you see what's wrong?

In my haste to get it out in, I apparently crossed my eyes and put the welder lead onto the negative.  Funny enough, it will not weld like that.  I swapped it over and it did much better.

However, I didn't.  Again, I've never welded with a spool gun.  I have done some tig, but at a university with good hoods and all that.  
 

I need to play more, I did some testing prior to touching the bracket.  I think my helmet stays too dark *autodarkening* so it's tough to see the puddle.  Then, when it's warm enough it blows through.  I'll get it down, but need to practice some more. Prolly on Pete's transmission. ;)

oh yeah, it's ugly.  Solid, but ugly.

i went ahead and got to work filing.

thats the midpoint.  But, I kept at it.  Finally got it to somewhere that I'm not completely embarrassed to have right up front of the car.

Sorry for the excess posts, my phone seems to stop at a certain point.

Not too embarrassed with it.  I should have the electric pump in tomorrow or Thursday, so I can try to finalize the mounting for the tensioner.

I have to throw it out, the middle son follows me to the garage almost every time.  I've explicitly told him of how his eyes will burn out of his head if he watches welding.  So he takes one is the extra helmets and wears it.  He wanted to put the "head band" on the other mask that was without.  So I made him do all the work.

If we can continue with him remembering things and taking note of where things fall as he takes them apart.  Maybe we can get somewhere. :)

I have a spool gun at work, and in the limited use I've had with it, I don't like it.

Perhaps with more time on it, I'll grow to love it, but I'm not there yet.

For the sub-$200 I hit it for, I'll be good.  I still want a good tig. 

Alright, I have made more progress on the car. 

I have been working to finish the rear of the car up with how I need to have lights, and all of it there.  The last "through the rear" piece would be the license plate light.  I did not want to hard mount the light and plate, as I wasnt sure how it would play with the rest of the car.  Also, I didn't want to put more holes in the rear of the car.

So, I started the other night trying to drill through a bolt that I had to fit the "tow" area.  My bits were not up to going into a hardened bolt.  What do you do?

I don't have a mill, but the same crappy old bench top drill press.  I moved up the RPM to get it closer to 4k rpm and it cut through:

That made me happy.  Since I got the hole done, I needed to actually get a light/plate mount made.  What would work for that.......

I still had some aluminum laying around still, leftover from the splitter I built for my old ESP car.  I took some 1" square tubing and then some angle and welded it togheter.  The tubing would be wide enough hold the plate 8.25".  Then the 1.25" angle was cut to fit on the tubing and welded together.  I need practice remember?  Its much better  this go around.  Still, not wonderful by any means. 

I then took another 4.5" piece of tubing and put it on going up, cut down the top and doubled the end.  So the drill through for the bolt is now closer to 1/4" thick.  I grounded the light on the mount, then ran the power wire through the bolt.  Now I can quick connect the power to the light and can pull this when I'm not using it.

And here is the wire in the inside.

As I showed up top, I got a few milling bits.  The mount to hold the dry sump pump is not a flat mount area.  On that side of the engine, there is an exuded aluminum piece.  It makes the mount not able to be flat.  I measured it out to around .050 difference.  No, thats not a lot, but its something.  So, I took some time and did this:

I will admit, if I just used my bench belt sander, it would probably work faster and just about as good.  Thought I did it.  Yah!

I have some stuff I have been debating on doing.  One such, is pulling the dash.  This involves drilling out rivets and pulling all the electric controls out.  One reason that I wanted to do this, the steering wheel come out pointed at my upper stomach.  I am about 6'3" and 245 now, getting the steering wheel another inch up would see like it would sit much better.  I drilled out the rivets and pulled the dash.  Then I went ahead, added a metal blade to the sawzall, and cut the steering wheel out. 

I didn't get pics though.  It was time for supper, and as my MIL agreed to get a bed from a neighbor who is moving, I spent the rest of the evening moving that up to our garage apartment, and then up to my girls room.  It wouldnt all fit up the stairs.

Steering shaft is gone. Currently, it goes straight Into the reduction/overdrive/whatever box. This means, I can't just "push up" the shaft.  I need to install a u-joint.  Unfortunately, the ones I have are not this shaft size.  
 

I could redo this and setup a new shaft and all, or I could spend $20 wait a day and a half and get the right size one.  That's what I went with.  I should have this tomorrow.  Then, I'll cut the shaft, space it out, and move it up.  Worse case, I get another u joint if the wheel is now too much bus like.

To keep moving at something and since I have the dash out, I decided to work on the wheel controls.  For this, I ordered in a motorcycle/atv/utv blinker setup.  This came with horn, led lights, controls, all that.  Well, it was made to "bolt" to a handlebar.  A wheel does not make a handlebar.

To put this to work, I got a 7 pin through dash plug.  I figured that since I was to wrap the cord from the wheel to the dash I should telephone chord it.  So I wrapped the straight cord around a thin tube.  Applied heat via the heat gun to make this happen.

BOOM, a little trick for you all.

Anyways, I started to solder the connections to the plug.  After I remembered I needed to get all the pieces in, I unsoldered the few and then resoldered it all.  
 

I drilled a hole in the wheel adapter, and ran the wire through.  Then put the switch all on.  

and here is the wheel together

Got the ujoint in today.  So, after dinner and our evening workout I went out to the garage to get that done.  
 

I didn't notice that it was the d sided style that I ordered.  But being the cheapest one in 3/4" on Amazon, I'll deal with it.

Being as I had a new toy, I started using it first.  

it worked decent but stopped after a couple passes, I remembered I have other things that are probably a lot faster and easier.  So, I used some scrap wood to hold the shaft and clearance it on the bandsaw. 

Much easier, faster, and cleaner.  I could use a mill to make this a viable thing and some larger end mill bits, but alas.  Still too cheap to get one, so I'll wait. 
 

I got the shaft split, cut, drilled, and installed.

The measurement is the added length to the shaft.  I've thought I would like another couple of inches, so I won't complain.

i threw the seat back in to make sure I was in the right position.  I thought about adding 1" height, but I'm sticking with the, "let's go a couple inches more rule", I did that. 
 

Somehow on the first attempt I really got a good selfie shot showing the original "adding 2" length" location.   Though as you can clearly see, I am asleep....

Here is the anticipated location of the wheel

I'm thinking this will be a marked improvement.

I did measure and honestly this location is right at 2" higher.  I'll get some welding done, at least by the weekend.  
 

The dash will need a relief.  In doing so, I'll need to move the fan switch up.  That shouldn't be a big deal as there is room above the label to put it.

I've been debating on if I should or should not go ahead and swap out the current ECU.  It's not a matter of getting one, hell, I have a micro squirt in the box waiting.  More of a "dang it this is going to be a pain".

After doing the steering wheel controls, that helped me feel a little better about wiring. But I need to pull the wiring book and go through it to compare.  I'll still be missing cam timing as I haven't figured out the way to do that.  Trigger wheel on the front is probably the answer, but yea.  That would leave it batch fire, but still a boatload better tuning than the SDS.

I guess, can anyone talk me into or out of opening a whole other huge can of worms on this thing?  Suspension and aero are the two points I'll have not touched by the time it's up and running again possibly.

What problem do you have with the SDS currently? I want to understand what you want changing ECUs to do for you. 

No real issue.  The way that the tuning is done on the SDS is slightly limiting to it. 

SDS as I know it, will tune for an RPM band.  It will run and give 64 points of tuning for it.

All Parameters controlling fuel injection and timing are adjustable using the SDS programmer unit including:

• Fuel curve for RPM - 250 rpm increments from 500 to 9750 rpm
• Fuel Curve for Manifold Pressure - 64 points from 28" vacuum to +.8 lbs
• Fuel Curve for Boost - 64 points from 28" vacuum to +30lbs boost
• Fuel Curve for Air temp - 64 points from -58c to +392c
• Fuel Curve for Water temp - 32 points from -32c to +212c
• Fuel curve for Cold start - 32 points from -32c to +212c
• Accelerator pump function - 3 adjustments
• Closed loop operation on / off at RPM and MAP points
• Ignition curve for RPM - 250 rpm increments from 500 to 9750 rpm
• Ignition retard for Boost - 64 points from 28" vacuum to +30lbs boost
• Ignition advance under cruise for better mileage and drivability.
• Rev protection - 250 rpm increments from 500 to 9750 rpm
• Boost protection up to 30lbs boost
• Knock sensor sensitivity and timing retard
• Radiator electric fan on / off temperatures
• Fast idle on / off temperatures

The Squirts *generally all the mega and micro at least have this they can handle*
at least a 12X12 table for tuning, thats 144 points.  I think it will go to a 16X16 which is 256 points

Am I wrong?  The setup would still be EDIS, I think I can use the same sensors that are already there, just would have to setup for that.

Been doing a little bit here and there, but no real time to sit down and report in.  Doing an improptu Family Vacation over Memorial Day, Traveling up to OK for work the week after, and then just getting stuff back together.  

Anyways, I left last with the steering.  In the midst of the vaca and work trip, I got the steering wheel welded up.  I layed back in the lower part of the tubing that was cut out, and then used some of the 1/2" angle for the side supports and a extra piece to fill in the middle.  I then used a couple of more pieces of the angle to make a triangular support for the piece. 

The most astute of you will notice the hole in the middle.  That is there to mount the plugin for the steering controls.  I need a spot to put that, and it seemed to fit there wonderfully!

The aluminum dash would no longer fit, so, I fixed that.

I relocated the fan switch and all should be good.  I have 2 more changes that this needs.

1) I have a rivnut tool, which I think I will use to make this a "bolt in" piece.  That should allow for easier access for future repairs, updates, etc.

2) Need to install the headlight switches.  This should be the last of the switches needed.  Actually, as I write this, I realize I may need to put in something for the electric water pump...... bugger.

Ok, so 3 things. Kinda.

I talked with some people and my friend/co-driver.  Ill leave the SDS for now.  It was working, just need to see if the tuner can tune it all up.

Ill leave in a bit to run by my friends shop and go over the oil pan again.  Also, the pump drive.  The current/old crank pulley has a magnet setup in it.  So, I cannot just throw on the solid one I have.  Which means I need to figure that out to convert the new one or so.  Hopefully we can discuss and figure that out in a bit.

If the SDS is working and you have (or can get) a decent tune, then let sleeping dogs lie. If you aren't able to get the tune you need, then swap away. Doing the swap shouldn't be hard at all: you're already all wired in, you could just make a jumper from the SDS terminal end of your wiring to the Micro/Megasquirt port. 

Dash is looking good. 

Let's see if I can get a little update put in.

I finally got to working on the car a bit more.  At least, with some time associated not just a few minutes here and there.

I figured it was about time to go ahead and get the oil tank finshed up.  I have the location picked out, just need to make it stay in there.  The tank already has a wrap-around holder, I just needed to space it out to the current rear support structure. 

Getting this in, I needed to go ahead and get a vent can in there.  The car was running one off the egr on the engine prior in the front. So, easy solution = best solution, moved that to the rear. 

It's hard to tell from here, but the vent is about even with the top of the tank.  I have it moved as high as I can get with the current supports.  I think it will be fine, but if I see anything that looks "off" on this, I can raise it up higher.

Also, another issue going on is the oil lines to the rear.  I had previously built a plate for the front port.  I just went in and added a couple riv-nuts to bolt it on.

This is the front, now to look into the rear one. 

I have the bushing for the flex line to put onto the lower through hole.  So its all there, and then the backside...Looking at that pic, I may need to clean up those drill holes....Yikes!

I went ahead and mounted up the battery too.  I have had the battery box made up for awhile.  Yes, its real Carbon Fiber, I still have a lot of scraps I brought in and used the old ESP Spoiler for the sides.

If you notice the overflow fuel tank there, it makes you unable to pull the battery out.  Yes, I did check this before I initially mounted it.  Thank you very much.

So, I planned for this. 

Those are hinges which in conjunction with the screws holding the top keep it in, and still be able to pull the battery.

I threw on some of the clamps for the tubing too.  I plan to make these bolt to the floor and then add a cover to sheild these from passengers.  Something about heat, melted flesh....Ionknow, only sort of makes sense but Ill do it!

Seems like a handful of "do not touch" stickers should accomplish the same thing with less weight, right? 

Good point... 

Wanna help with testing to make sure I get the proper amount of stickers?

OR.... Should I plan to make some carbon fiber covers....

In reply to Thinkkker :

Pain is a powerful teacher. Someone has to suffer. Your call. 

mazdeuce - Seth said:

In reply to Thinkkker :

Pain is a powerful teacher. Someone has to suffer. Your call. 

Just my parenting style.  I'm sold!

new sticker for the dash,

"if it's too hot, Blame Seth"

I felt as though I needed to share this.  It is kinda soothing in a way.

https://media.giphy.com/media/MdSZrPYbP7G4eQe0wL/giphy.gif

I am making some slow progress in learning the spool gun.  Much better than when I first started up.

What is this you ask?  I needed to make a plan for quick batter access.  If you saw the last mounting location, thats the "trunk".  I would rather not pull all the rear apart to access it.  I could have gone for some remote jump start buttons.

I would need to still grab cables and such for these also.  I looked around and found these....



These look cool and gave me an idea.  So, brought these in and drilled a few more holes in the back wall.

Then, the holes....

Keen eyed viewers will notice that the wires are reverse from earlier.  I did figure out prior to final hookup, I would need to fit these in this manner to make sure the wiring in the car would fit. 

Also, notice the LOVELY wiring lugs.  I knew this was coming and I needed some so I picked them up and also spent a little extra to get this.

Im a fan, for a cheap hydraulic crimper, its pretty sweet.

So, that means the battery relocation and wiring are complete.  I did some movement on the dry sump pump to bring it closer to the engine.  I need to check on the other parts for that system and get them back in.

Your cables are looking great! Thanks for the review on the hydraulic crimper. I have one of the DIN sized hand crimpers that doesn't quite fit standard fittings, but is close enough. Maybe someday I'll upgrade. 

Regarding your welds, are you confident the machine is set up right? Those welds don't look right, and I'd guess that the polarity is wrong. What are you shielding with? Because it doesn't look to be shielding too well. 

Settings are better, I BLEW through when I first ran it.  That, honestly scared me a bit.  I also figured out, DO NOT stay in one spot very long at all.  If welding steel is going for a walk in the park and enjoying yourself.  Welding aluminum is more akin to getting ready for that walk and a whole pack of Arctic wolves are behind slobbering with an eye on using you for dinner.    I.E. you need to move quick.

The welder is setup, as it should be from the inner panel telling you what to do.  I have actually gotten a bit more comfortable and have it set a little higher, but it does seem like it works better like that?   I am also using a mix of gas.  Which is not best from what I know. 

Also, I am using only the highest tier wire you can find.  Plus, the gun is a sub $200 piece to stick metal together....

I have done limited welding with it, so not too unhappy.  I have cut in and checked so I know the welds are solid and not going anywhere.  Sure look like hell though.

I do have some decent files that I keep which have come in handy too.

This is the one I got too on the crimper:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RSJZJRV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I may never use it again, but it works well.  with the size range on the pieces, I figure it would allow me to get some more use.  If you had an extra person it would be easier.  One person can handle it though.

I started working on the AN hoses.  Apparently, my cutter, or lack of, is not going to work. So, Ill get that coming.

I did get the lines setup with the AN adapters installed. 

This means, I just need to get the hoses made. 

While I was stuck not cutting hose, well, I went ahead and pulled the top on the oil tank.  I had not yet opened it, but saw pics when I bought it.  Good news, all I thought was there was.  I spun the top about 180* and then sealed it up and bolted it back together.  I rotated the top to get the vent tube facing the proper direction towards the breather.

I went ahead and modded the trickle charger I picked up.  Now, I have a quick connect for plug in on the car.

Oh yea, I also was looking and decided I would go ahead and lift the breather tank.  Its set more level and lifted to the max elevation it can get too.

Enjoying the project.

Take this for what it's worth as I am far, far, far from being a welding expert but that looks like Mezzanine said and it's either not being shielded or the parts are not clean enough. Definitely look to be contaminated welds. 

Although I've only brazed aluminum (somewhat successfully), I was told that if aluminum is old/contaminated enough it becomes extremely difficult to weld no matter how clean you get the surface. 

AxeHealey said:

Although I've only brazed aluminum (somewhat successfully), I was told that if aluminum is old/contaminated enough it becomes extremely difficult to weld no matter how clean you get the surface. 

Thanks, and this is probably true. My prep work is lackluster.  I won't lie. Haha for what I've done, I'm ok.  I have something upcoming, I'll prep it very good first before hand.  I'll leave it at that and try to make sure to get pics as I do it.

This is not in my hand yet, but.....

I just needed to share that.

In reply to Thinkkker :

That looks legit!!