Here is the video from the dyno, check it out here
Here is the video from the dyno, check it out here
I ordered a carbon center dash panel back in July and it finally arrived, can't wait to install it. I have now driven the car 3500 kms (2174 miles) and it's been mostly smiles all the time. I am chasing down little noises here and there and small leaks, too. The initial biggest noise was a weird frequency coming from the area of the transmission, which I figured was a pinion angle issue. Changing the pinion angle would change the speed that the noise would be at its worst but didn't eliminate the noise. I finally figured out that the engine was angled down towards the back too much (5 degrees) and lifting that up has cured THAT noise. Now there's a different noise because the headers are now right up against the floor as a result of lifting the back of the motor up (GRRR). I can fix this with a little welding and will wait for the winter to tackle that. The McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing has been disappointing, it leaks already so the trans is going to have to come out to fix it, another item that will wait for winter. The axle seals leak and they have been replaced 3 times now so there is a design flaw going on there. It's manageable, though, I just have to wash off the dribble of fluid every time I wash the car. Otherwise I am enjoying owning it and driving it and feel like big man on campus when I drive it around. The car breaks necks and is fun to drive.
In reply to loosecannon :
Oof
Pulled the exhaust off and removed the transmission so I can replace the throwout bearing. Took only 1.5 hours, helped by the stands I made to raise my Quick-Jack up another foot.
In a classic case of project creep or maybe it's "while you're in there" I have decided to build 180 degree headers for the Camaro. Attached is a picture of the current underside of the car and after correcting the angle of the engine for proper u-joint angles, the headers are right up against the floor. I had plans to alter the collectors to clear the floor and I also realized that I can incorporate the trans mount into the torque arm crossmember. Then I realized that with a few extra tubes and some welding, I can built 180 degree headers that will make the car sound even better. I'll try to get the tubes equal in length but it will be a challenge. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I just need to take the two center cylinders from each side and cross them over to the other side?
In reply to loosecannon :
They're called 180-degree headers because the exhaust pulses are grouped such that they are 180 crank degrees apart. I don't have a more clear way to put it in words, so I'll make up a visual.
lets say your firing order is A B C D E F G H
Write it like this:
A C E G
B D F H
those are the groupings you want
so on a classic SBC with firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, the groupings are 1-4-6-7 and 8-3-5-2
Depending on your EFI system flexibility, closed loop fuel control might be jacked because the LH o2 sensor is seeing exhaust from 1-4-6-7 instead of 1-3-5-7, and RH o2 is seeing 8-3-5-2 instead of 8-4-6-2
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to loosecannon :
They're called 180-degree headers because the exhaust pulses are grouped such that they are 180 crank degrees apart. I don't have a more clear way to put it in words, so I'll make up a visual.
lets say your firing order is A B C D E F G H
Write it like this:
A C E G
B D F H
those are the groupings you want
so on a classic SBC with firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, the groupings are 1-4-6-7 and 8-3-5-2
Depending on your EFI system flexibility, closed loop fuel control might be jacked because the LH o2 sensor is seeing exhaust from 1-4-6-7 instead of 1-3-5-7, and RH o2 is seeing 8-3-5-2 instead of 8-4-6-2
Thanks for sharing that. I think i jumped head first into what I thought was a great idea but now I think I made a mistake. My friend owns a very good speed shop and he tells me that what I want to do has the primary tubes too long and too unequal in length, so I will not get the sound I am looking for and will actually lose top end power. He suggests I do a 4 into 2 into 1 on each side but I did not order the right parts for that from Stainless Headers. Now I have to try and cancel all the parts I ordered
In reply to loosecannon :
Yep, 4-2-1 aka tri-Y work well. The cylinder pairing should be chosen to make the exhaust pulses as close to 360 crank degrees apart as possible (for most uniform scavenging). Again using Gen1 SBC as example 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 we need to split up the 8-4 and the 5-7.
For 8, we could pair with 2 or 6. Pairing 8 with 2 gives pulses 540 and 180 apart. This leaves us with 4 and 6 together, which are also 180 and 540 apart. Pairing 8 with 6 gives pulses 270 and 450 apart, and leaves us with 2 and 4 together which are also 270 and 450 apart.
For 5, we could pair with 1 or 3. Following the same logic as before, we'd pair 5 with 1 to get 270 and 450 separation, vs pairing 5 and 3, which would give separation of 180 and 540.
I cancelled my order for the 180 degree header supplies but my new seats and seat belts arrived so I installed those. I am quite pleased with how nice these seats are
I just released a video about the seats and belts a few other things. Here it is
What hydraulic TOB are you moving to next? I've heard good things about Tilton according to a shop owner who's installed a number of them.
loosecannon said:I had my second autocross with the "finished" Camaro. This time I started with lower tire pressures and the shocks set where I had them last time. My first run went great and I set a competitive time immediately, and it was clean! My next run was quicker but I clipped a cone in a narrow chute (picture attached). The chute was in theory wide enough to go straight through, however, approaching it in a straight line was very difficult for bigger cars like mine. Anyways, I got a temp warning buzzer and looked to see my engine temp at 215 F. I have two big fans on the rad and only 1 of them has ever been needed to keep the car cool. The second one only comes on when engine temp exceeds 207 F or when the AC is on. Well, it didn't come on today and I don't have the tools at the track to diagnose but it seems like a short somewhere so I disconnected it and carried on, spraying the rad between runs. The car felt great on the track, I was able to throw it around and it never did anything weird and didn't even lock up a tire once. I finished 2nd in class (by only .2 seconds) and was only 4 seconds off the top raw time for the whole event (an SSP Porsche Cayman GTS) 75 seconds vs my 79 seconds. I was quite disctracted by the fan issue so I couldn't get my head in the game but I still think I did pretty good and I love the car even more now
From 7/4/23 post, I see u have 2 fans in one shroud. There's no point in having fans come on at different temps.
Reason being that the first fan to come on draws approx 80% of it's air thru the rad and 20% of it's air BACKWARDS thru the inop fan then across to the op fan.
There's high pressure behind the op fan and lo pressure inside the shroud, that 20% (which is obviously hot) goes around in a circle in and out of the shroud.
That's why those rubber flaps are used ... to stop recycling in traffic/low speeds thru the high speed slots that are under the flaps. Obviously impractical to install flaps on the inop fan.
Jim in Oz.
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