Obviously not an eggspurt on rims/offsets .....but considering your HP's @ TQ's, thinking out loud, does one look for a wheel center kinda more or less centered in the rim width? which in turn dictates(somewhat) rear end flange to flange, suspension mounting locations eh?
Oh, what pumpkin are you running in this(has a name yet
).....12bolt .....9inch strange triple throwdown custom whodathoutit????
In reply to 759NRNG :
I purchased a Wheel Fitment Kit from Summit so I should be able to get my wheel offset perfect. The suspension kit I am purchasing comes with a Ford 9" housing and I just happen to have a couple of extra gear sets and Eaton TruTrac LSD kicking around to put in it. The diff will be 58" from mounting surface to mounting surface and with some math, I could figure out offset but I'm just going to wait until I have it bolted in.
The passenger side quarter panel is welded in now. It was a lot more tricky than the other side because the two quarter panels I used were different brands and had slight differences. My wife insisted I install a ventilation system for the welding gasses so that went in today. Also, I had a pretty serious sound system in storage and that is now pumping the classic rock while I work on my classic car.
What temperature am I looking at here?
In reply to 759NRNG :
About 66 degrees. I have large electric heater that does a decent job of keeping the garage warm and I have a propane heater that can get it up to temp really quickly. It's been -4 or colder for weeks and weeks but we have some warm weather coming
Warm weather = 10? I noticed that pie cut on the quarter at the door jamb, part of flairing the panel eh? The same on the passenger side too? Oh and did the dog leg portion have to be "rolled out" to get the desired flair ?
In reply to 759NRNG :
Watch this video for answers: How to widen a 1967 Camaro
Worked 10 hours this weekend on the Camaro, all of it spent fitting the tail light panel and lower rear valance. I'm almost ready to weld the panel on. I also made my own filler panel that fills gap between the trunk floor pan and the quarter panel
I installed a new tail light panel on the car. There was a lot of putting it on, taking it off, putting it on again to check fitment. I was finally able to weld it on today. Here is the video link Episode 271 New Taillight Panel
The latest video has just been released, here is the link Episode 272 Trunk Braces
I am learning a new skill: Lead body soldering. I learned from the Suburban project that modern body fillers suck so I went old school on the Camaro and am learning how to manipulate lead to smooth things out. It's coming along nicely but it's a whole new skillset. Video here: Episode 273 Using Lead Filler
In reply to loosecannon :
Very cool. Before Bondo and other fillers, lead was the only way. My dad did a little bit of lead work but that was before my time, so I never got to see it happen. I like the path you're taking with this car.
I enjoyed that. Thanks for posting the link
loosecannon said:I am learning a new skill: Lead body soldering. I learned from the Suburban project that modern body fillers suck so I went old school on the Camaro and am learning how to manipulate lead to smooth things out. It's coming along nicely but it's a whole new skillset. Video here: Episode 273 Using Lead Filler
As a heads up make sure you neutralize your leaded areas. Tinning butter is still just a lead powder suspended in a flux base. That means it *will* cause a hell of a lot of issues if you do not neutralize it. It will creep up through your paint and bite you in the ass. Baking soda and water. Wash the ever living heck out of it. I like to wash the surface after it's tinned, and then again after it's leaded. And ONCE more once it's all filed backed and finished out. And no, I'm not joking. I can't even begin to tell you how many I have fixed due to people not completely neutralizing their panels. It's not an if it will bite you in the ass, but a when.
What also works good is using some 0000 steel wool to work in the tinning butter. Personally I prefer to flux then tin the surface myself, but the tinning butter stuff is easier. From there I will get the panel prepped, however you are doing it, then when you go to apply the lead make sure to heat *the panel*, not just the lead. Don't over heat the panel but you definitely want to get the panel warm and keep heat into the panel. It's like brazing. There's no fusion, but it sure as E36 M3 needs heat to work it's way into the pores of the steel. Otherwise you'll wind up running into all sorts of issues come metal finishing time. I've seen guys have issues with edges lifting, not being able to feather out the different layers of molten lead they applied and it "peeling" off, etc. All sorts of fun stuff. Again, not to discourage you. Lead work is a great skill. But it also has a LOT of areas where it very easily can come back to bite you in the ass. Just like plastic work, but worse. At least you'll catch issues with plastic relatively early on if you are using the E36 M3 properly. Lead work can bite you in the ass a week or 2 after you applied paint, or even months down the road when it all starts to puff up and swell.... and you're left wondering where you went wrong.
Also, you want less wax / tallow / whatever your choice of lube is for your paddle, on your paddle. That too can cause issues. Seen it many times. I heat up the paddle, toss the flame onto the top of the tallow / beeswax / whatever you are using, rub it in, build up a decent film, then actually take some scrap denim (seriously, it's a great use for a pair of jeans that are no longer servicable) and rub the excess off of the padle's surface. You want a *LIGHT* barely there film. You'll know you need to reapply when it starts to grab the lead and drag it, rather than smearing it. Then you know it's time to heat the surface of the paddle, drag it across the jeans to clean it up quick and reapply another light film, whilst removing the excess again.
Again, keep it up. It's a fun thing to do, and a great thing to learn. But..those are tips I've amassed over 20 years of doing it, shoulder to shoulder with some of the best in the industry...
Do yourself a favor too and get yourself a half round vixen file, flat vixen and an adjustable file holder as well as a few rounds & straights. Makes doing lead work SO much easier... First purchase, would be an adjustable holder and a few files for them. Trust me. It'll save you a TON of f'n around.
In reply to GaryC83 :
Thanks for all the great advice, I will definitely be following your guidelines. I can't find the vixen files you are talking about. Got pictures or an Amazon link?
In reply to loosecannon :
If this works...
Flexible holder and under it they show a commonly bought together "kit" with a flat and half round.
If this works... there's nicer stuff out there, obviously. I cant vouch for these specifically, but I use the E36 M3 out of my adjustable holders, half round and flat inserts. Even for metal finishing a panel without lead, they're great. And not everybody calls them vixens, some call them dreadnought. They have curved teeth vs straight cut teeth, and some other differences from typical files - making them perfect for sheet metal, alumnium, brass, lead, etc.
GaryC83 said:In reply to loosecannon :
If this works...
Flexible holder and under it they show a commonly bought together "kit" with a flat and half round.
If this works... there's nicer stuff out there, obviously. I cant vouch for these specifically, but I use the E36 M3 out of my adjustable holders, half round and flat inserts. Even for metal finishing a panel without lead, they're great. And not everybody calls them vixens, some call them dreadnought. They have curved teeth vs straight cut teeth, and some other differences from typical files - making them perfect for sheet metal, alumnium, brass, lead, etc.
Nope.... Not again.... Not again....
Well maybe one day again.
Growing up with my father doing body work on his own cars, he used one of these just before the filler would harden to get the shape almost right, the use a speed file and production paper.
And remembering how it would pull in your shoulders as the filler got harder and harder.
I must also say, he used it for the filler as some one told him it works best on it. Bet he didn't know it was meant for lead finishing (you can correct me if I am wrong)
loosecannon said:
OOOH, Beefy!
Loose, what method/procedure will you be using to seal the gap between the floor and the quarter panel?
In reply to 759NRNG :
Seem sealer because it's flexible. I think if I welded it, there would be a visible line when the temperature got hot because the whole trunk floor would expand sideways and push the quarters out
There were too many damaged and useless holes in the stock parcel shelf so I set about making a new one. The problem is, I also have a roll cage and some tubes go through the parcel shelf. I have not nailed down exactly what I am going to do yet (parts have been ordered) but rest assured, it's going to look good. Video link here Episode 274 Parcel Shelf
How did you get any work done???
Everyone else was shoveling this weekend, LOL. Looks good!
In reply to egoman :
I did a considerable amount of snow removal as well and it really cut into my Camaro time. I have a snowblower that I stuck a big motor on and it makes quick work out of what would be an all day ordeal if I just had a shovel.
Video is not ready but here is a pic of parcel shelf 
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