I'm in.
I'm in.
This is coming along nicely! I am following along in the background and learning. I will definitely have to come check this out in person sometime.
In reply to tedroach :
I'd suggest waiting until its held together with more than zip ties.....
But you'r welcome any time
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Michael, can you do me a favour and measure the distance from the Miata firewall to the forward most point on the engine, excluding throttle body. It looks pretty short and I'm looking for options for my Corolla build. Thanks
Which part of the firewall? The more or less recessed area? Also, my bellhousing flange is slightly in front of the plane of the firewall, so it wouldn't be a pure engine measurement.
Bellhousing flange (on block) to furthest forward (crank bolt) 20.5
Recess to crank bolt:22.5
Furthest point of firewall to crank bolt 21.5
GTXVette said:Alrighty Mikey,
18" wide/17"front to rear Seat bottom, 27" from bottom of Pan to Shoulder Harness Opening 37" to the Top Of Seat. there is about a 45 degree portion from the seat bottom to the Back Upright it may be 5"
Without doing major mods to the drivetrain to move it over another inch, theres not enough space in my car either. Thanks for the offer though!
Watching this closely. Getting more ideas for a future project.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Thank you , Sir. That's helpful info.
In reply to DeadSkunk :
You're welcome warren.
Let me know if you want more accurate/specific dimensions. Motor will be coming back out soon.
Challenge budget so far:
previous challenge budget: 1135.71
recoup: 800
money spent:
header flanges: I gave sonny $40
bought used stock c5 exhaust and some new in box header collectors from Charlie Tew for $20
bought dinner ($26.87) in exchange for 3x unknown brand nitrous nozzles, used fuel pressure regulator for carb, 2x mangled and used headers, 1 wire alternator, 3x autometer ultralight gauges covered in tar, some exhaust flex pipe, and a pair of 3 inch to 2.5 exhaust reducers
FMV $2 for a couple of pullies and a spare tensioner from my scrap bucket
bought used s10 2.2 flywheel and clutch on eBay $40 shipped
Current budget: 1286.58
recoup: 800
so, Friday night I went to see a jeep owned by an old corvette customer of mine. He got out of vettes a while back, and asked me to fix the jeep. While there, he tried to give me his leftover vette stuff. I made him take $20 for the 2.5 collectors and stock exhaust. Didn't seem right getting 4x collectors NIB for free.
Afterwards, I went to Dallas place to help sort trans issues with the AMC, and help him go through the barn and fill a dumpster. While doing this, we came across 3x unknown brand nitrous nozzles, used fuel pressure regulator for carb, 2x mangled and used headers, 1 wire alternator, 3x autometer ultralight gauges covered in tar, 2x 3-2.5 reducers, and some exhaust flex pipe. I asked him how much, and he said to buy dinner. I added in the cost of dinner at La Unica, his favorite Mexican restaurant.
20180127_111628 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
on the way back from dinner, I got t-boned by a 17 year old girl that was texting. I was turning left, she swerved into the oncoming lane to miss the people stopped behind me and slammed the drivers door of my 64 el camino into my ribs. Door is pushed in about 14 inches.....
20180126_214146 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
we both walked away. Dallas may have whiplash. I have bruised ribs, minor concussion, and somethings torn in both my left knee and shoulder. Trucks probably totaled.
Anyway, needless to say, I didn't get much progress after that. This weekend ive been moving pretty damned slow. So I took it easy.
I built a header.
I started with some presumably Chevy headers that I had bought a while back from pat. Theyre roughly 1.5 primaries. The other set I got from Dallas are 1 ¾, and ill use them when I build the turbo manifolds later.
20171202_103045 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I took the portaband to them to make sections. Kept a minimum of 1 inch of pipe around all the bends. Then dressed the ends on mt bench grinder and with a wire wheel.
20180128_153627 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
grabbed the flanges sonny and I had made
20180116_170759 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
to get the pipe into the flanges, I cut a series of relief notches through the end of the pipe. Bent them all in a little, worked the pipe into the flange, clocked it where I wanted it, tacked it, bent and beat the flaps outward to match the contours of the flange, and welded them up.
20180127_133551 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180127_133547 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I then played with pieces and angles and such until I had all the primary tubes pointed in the same direction, and into a direction that would allow me to bolt up exhaust.
20180128_134000 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
the tubes wound up moving a bit when I fully welded everything. So I bolted all 3 sections to one of the factory cast iron manifolds, and then hose clamped the tubes together.
20180128_135159 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180128_135204 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
proceeded to use one of the 3-2.5 adapters as a collector. Beat tubes with a ball peen and bent the walls of the reducer until everything fit. Then tacked in place, heated the reducer up, beat it to shape with a bigger ball peen, and wended it up solid. Then I made a mistake. Well actually 2, but at the same time.
20180128_152706 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180128_152723 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
did you see the mistake yet? I hadn't at this point.
So I bolted the header up, all impressed with myself and feeling pretty awesome.
20180128_160822 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180128_160831 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180128_160842 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
if the problem isnt obvious yet, lets look at it from underneath.
20180128_161248 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
if you still havent figured out where I went wrong, ill tell you: there's no way to get the midpipe out of this side with the engine in. which means I couldn't remove the transmission. Which makes the car all but un-serviceable in the pits. The other mistake was not cutting down the collector before welding it in. it really chokes off the exhaust path on that side. So what ill need to do is carefully cut behind the weld, remove the collector, attach some strategically bent pipe, re-weld the collector flange on that strategically bent pipe, and then connect the midpipe. Should be fun.....
.
Dusterbd13, really sorry about your accident... that STINKS. Bummer about your injuries, and the Elky..... I love that truck. Take care, you and Dallas both!
Damn dude! I am sorry about the accident. Hope insurance covers it and everybody heals up!
I know you explained it, but i still don't understand the problem with the header as is.....
The 3 bolt flang will not fit any way i can think of through the gap in between the bellhousing and k frame. No way to fish it though with the motor and trans in place.
And thank for the well wishes y'al.
Cut the k member. It is just a small flange where you would need to cut, right? Cut it and weld it.
We did that for the rx7 too.
wvumtnbkr said:Cut the k member. It is just a small flange where you would need to cut, right? Cut it and weld it.
We did that for the rx7 too.
Good call! Ill look at that
I'd be equally concerned about the ability to get a wrench on the fasteners, or getting the fasteners in in the first place.
If that's not an issue you could make split flanges.
Split flanges? Care to educate me?
I can easily get bolts in there. Nuts on the other hand....
Damn! Sucks about you and the Elco- hate to see something like that get hit.
Headers look nice, clever choice using the other manifolds to keep everything aligned. Those 3 bolt flanges can be a bit cumbersome, would it help you to leave the flange on the midpipe 'loose' so it can float around some? Instead of welding it to the tube itself?
Both of the flanges are loose.
Im definitely going to look at notching, as i realized this morning that if i put the flanged section further into the trans tunnel i then cant install or remove the header with the drivetrain in.
Maybe its time to avoid the 3 bolt flanges altogether and go back to the original idea of using band clamps.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
I've actually been thinking about this since I initially recommended this, and I've revised the idea in my head about 5 times. And this isn't even my car LOL. (I was making the flanges/gussets for my rocker panels and needed something to think about to break up the tedium.)
What I came up with might actually be easier to cut a prototype with my plasma cutter (since I have it set up) than to try to explain.
Gimme a minute.
I'd cut up a couple donor flanges and weld it together to make this.
Weld the hinge stud to the manifold side of the flange and put a nut on the pipe side, then tack it on.
With both sides of the flange going over a manifold stud/bolt it won't be too difficult to manage.
I know that v-bands aren't generally challenge budget friendly, but they might solve your problem if you can find some.
Sucks about the elky, hope you're feeling better soon.
Crackers said:
I'd cut up a couple donor flanges and weld it together to make this.
Weld the hinge stud to the manifold side of the flange and put a nut on the pipe side, then tack it on.
With both sides of the flange going over a manifold stud/bolt it won't be too difficult to manage.
That is berkeleyING brilliant.
Make that work and I will buy 3 sets from you.
Well done sir.
Also, Dusterbd, I think you need more heat, or less wire feed when welding.
The welds on those headers look like the bead is "on top" of the metal instead of penetrating in. If you have good penetration (can see the weld from the inside), I would slow down that wire feed.
The closest weld in this picture has okay penetration. You can see the weld on the inside, but not the entire way around. If you look at this weld on the outside, it is pretty "raised up". I am thinking slow your wire down and your welds will be looking better.
T
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