I hear the power of a snail can be magical.....
In reply to TurboFource :
I would make excuses about packaging difficulties but then I see builds like BadBug's Bugeye
I keep coming back to this placement:
Intake side points through this convenient hole for the RHD car. I really like the idea of putting the intake in the some of the existing dash / firewall structure where the heater used to blow for maximum intake noises. If I did this I would call it a honk box and I'm sure I would love it.
Turbine outlet could dump through the inner fender (through a similar hole to what I've already cut on the driver side, and charge pipes could be routed pretty simply at the top of the fender.
Different CAD:
Using the existing fresh air vents (or a bigger hole I cut in the same place) to draw in outside (instead of cabin air):
I think the trick will be executing this in such a way that the air filter is actually easily servicable...
Welded in the top link / tunnel reinforcement and the shifter tower finally, while the turbo / airbox ideas ferment a bit:
The first time I ever drove a FactoryFive Cobra was when I rented one for a track day. The rental guy set them all up with the intake running through a hole behind the passenger side dash and ending in a cone filter at the top of the foot well. I have to say, the sound of the engine sucking air right there added quite a bit to the experience.
A little design iteration:
And in metal:
My plan is to use these little latches (or similar) to hold the two halves of the filter box (grey vs. orange in the CAD) together and seal the filter element. The orange part of the air box can bolt to the the firewall and seal with the help of some rubber bulb seal strip.
Looking forward to seeing how you do it. I'll be working on filtering soon as well. I like what you've started here.
I think I should steal from blue oval and call this thing the MG MGB GTD.
Might need a big wing to make that name work though.
Some work on the serpentine routing (alternator only):
Any thoughts on swapping the alternator and idler positions? I'm thinking If I put them both on the same side I can make one complicated bracket and one simple bracket instead of two complicated brackets...
Looking at one of these denso style units: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Denso-Style-1-Wire-Mini-Race-Alternator-90-Amp,403208.html
Bonus, large gauge wiring (starter to alternator) can be shorter if I put the alternator on the passenger side.
Why not eliminate the tensioner and use alternator to set tension? One less bracket and pulley.
Or put the tensioner where the idler is.
In reply to TurboFource :
I've gone back and forth on using the alternator to set tension. might be simpler, but I already bought this tensioner...
I'm going to stew on this a bit.
Would it be weird to run the tensioner that way (with a ribbed pulley pushing on the inside of the belt vs. a flat pulley pushing on the outside?
In reply to TurboFource :
I have one that fits. It should technically work, but I'm not sure it's Kosher.
In reply to TurboFource :
I feel foolish to have thought otherwise.
Unfortunately the idler pulley I have is too small in diameter to clear the body of the tensioner, so that idea is a no-go with the parts I've currently got.
The Speedway motors alternator is out of stock, but I did some more digging around the web and came back here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/swap-science-how-hang-alternator/
The Geo Metro alternator looks like a good option, and I think actually the same Nippondenso style alternator case as that Speedway unit (with some differences in mounting tabs), so I ordered a reman one on Rockauto.
In reply to TurboFource :
Yeah specifically this:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000047&cc=1430185&pt=2412
I believe it is a one wire deal.
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