MG MGB GT

In reply to 759NRNG :

Yeah, another thing on the to-do list. I've already cut out the outer-inner-fenders, which is a separate pressing spot welded to the inner-inner-fender.

Would be really great if I had a roller to make them. I'm just thinking a single curvature piece that comes straight out to meet the fiberglass fenders.

I'll probably end up forming them with a big piece of pipe.

I know you've moded the rear end but with mini tubs you could keep the rim offset, but you would have to touch the diff again.....yes? 

In reply to 759NRNG :

The current wheels would fit without further body modification if the rear end were ~6" narrower (total) but then I wouldn't be able to use off the shelf axles (which in my case are cheap junkyard pulls).

Buying the wheels in 6.5" will be cheaper than getting custom axles.

Got it carry on maestro......the RV roof rack beckons

In reply to 759NRNG :

Appreciate the gut check.

Maybe I'll get it up this weekend. There's some stuff for the solar panels I've got to weld up, but maybe I'll do that once it's on 

I'm out of town on vacation for the next week, and I didn't get the roof rack buttoned up in time. It'll be waiting for me when I get back.

I dropped the C4 trans pan to replace the gasket, which wasn't doing its job.

Somehow it turned Ford Dark blue before going back on:

I'm going to do AN fittings and new hard lines while I'm here with the trans drained.

I'm weighing whether I should add an additional heat exchanger for the trans while I'm here, or just running the radiator integrated one. Being that this is a house on wheels, maybe it needs a proper trans cooler. I'd be happy to hear some opinions on this.

I say add one.

Nukem said:

In reply to 759NRNG :

Yeah, another thing on the to-do list. I've already cut out the outer-inner-fenders, which is a separate pressing spot welded to the inner-inner-fender.

Would be really great if I had a roller to make them. I'm just thinking a single curvature piece that comes straight out to meet the fiberglass fenders.

I'll probably end up forming them with a big piece of pipe.

Never built one like this or used one built like such, but came across this a while ago. Book marked it as was a fairly neat no buck / low buck tool.

Seems appropriate to post. Could easily rig one up for a larger width for doing some 18g wheel tubs. 

https://hackaday.com/2019/03/12/a-diy-slip-roll-on-the-cheap/

I would probably do it by throwing a 90 degree flange on some flat stock and using a shrinker / stretcher to bring things around and use that flange as a mount flange to bond / plug weld / whatever to, depending on how you plan on doing it. Theres 100 ways to do it, after all. 

Anyway, cool project. Always liked MGB-GT'S. 

In reply to TurboFource :

Scope creeeeep. I think I'm averaging about 1 Summit racing order per week at this point.

In reply to GaryC83 :

Neat. I'll have to give that a hard look. I love a good excuse to build (or buy,) a new tool.

Your flange suggestion sounds about like what I had in my head. The Retropower guys had a good video on doing that for one of their builds (I think their Chevette). Might need to add a shrinker / stretcher to the Christmas list...

In reply to Nukem :

Honestly the HF shrinker Stretcher stuff works great for the money. I have had a set for years (well over a decade now) and these days they don't get used much, but I used to use the snot out of them every day. Either buy or build a kicker stand for it and if / when the jaws wear (Lancaster style jaws do wear) you can replace with Kent White or the like (hell I think even the Eastwood ones will work).  Well worth the money and something everybody should have in their arsenal, even if not on a kicker stand. They make stuff like tubs SO much easier. I use them all the time. We have permanent deep throat kicker shrinker and stretcher and a few hand heads as well as mounted on a stand to still be used with a handle. All depends on what you are doing. 

In reply to GaryC83 :

Thanks for the scoop on the HF tool. Sounds like it will do the job just fine.

Building a kicker stand sounds like a fun little project.

It's always a yes on an external ATF cooler.  I think I burned up every C4 I had back in my days of Mustang.  The thing in the radiator is usually literally just a tube running water-adjacent.

In reply to rustomatic :

Thanks. 2/2 is enough to convince me, and now is the time to do it. 

Anyone have experience with running an thermostat for trans oil? I'm eyeing a Derale unit.

3 link parts for the MG are ordered:

Any Skoda stuff here on GRM? I'm just getting back from a week in Prague and I have returned with a lust for Czech metal.

The 8.8 casting features for the VSS are huge lumps that touch the body before I get to full bump.

I cut them off.

This little panel is coming out

in order to adjust this diff hump feature to give the 8.8 some more room (which still hits the floor before full bump).

I made some tubes for the transmission cooler / trans oil thermostat on the van.

Those tubes look really nice, mine usually end up connecting the dots but not that aesthetically. I really like those skoda pictures, whats the first car?

Nice!!

In reply to Shavarsh :

The rally looking Skoda is a 130RS:

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/lifestyle/motorsport/the-130-rs-turns-40/

I've got a cheap tubing bender that does a pretty good job. I usually clamp it down in a vise. 

In reply to Shavarsh :

The second one is a Jawa, which later became a mostly motorcycle manufacturer.

In reply to TurboFource :

Thanks. Main hope with the thermostat placement and line routing was to keep the feed / return lines from the trans close together (both on the pax side), and accessible, and to keep the radiator / trans cooler sandwich easily removable (hence why the thermostat is mounted on the radiator).

Hopefully it all actually fits behind the grill.