I glanced over that forum- there's some decent traffic there. I'll post and see if anyone has an undamaged hub casting.
I glanced over that forum- there's some decent traffic there. I'll post and see if anyone has an undamaged hub casting.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I know someone who does now.. Contact Jack Ingold.... he's the one who had the Toyota-powered 2500M for sale . He just happened to mention that he had one, should anyone need it.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
That sounds very good.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:I glanced over that forum- there's some decent traffic there. I'll post and see if anyone has an undamaged hub casting.
Do you mean the steel bearing carrier, or the rear upright?
In reply to Slow_M :
The cast aluminum upright. One of mine is cracked.
I trust you were able to go to the TVRCCNA classifieds and get Jack's phone #. If not, let me know.
As to your request for steering rack dimensions, a picture is worth a thousand words...
Overall length, 43"
Outer ball "nut" face to outer face 28.5"
Total housing length 18.5"
The photos don't align the tape measure with the rack as well as I'd hoped, but you get the idea of where I was measuring from... the lengths I quoted are accurate to within a couple of tenths.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Slow_M :
The cast aluminum upright. One of mine is cracked.
Try John Wadman, in Toronto, and/or Adrian Venn or Neil Russell, in the UK.
Why not weld it?
Slow_M said:Why not weld it?
Because I'm working really hard to fret and over-think it.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I guess fabricating one out of steel is out of the question, then.
With good detailed fab threads I like to let a few pages run then catch up. Seems I get more of the big picture that way. Sorry that diff frame didn't work like you hoped. Do you still think it was worth buying or could you have made your own easy enough?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
The frame that I modified is the original TVR part. So I used all the Good Parts stuff as sent. Except hardware needed some changes.
Slow_M said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I guess fabricating one out of steel is out of the question, then.
That's always an option. I was actually thinking about that on my morning dog walk.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Yup, your steering rack is definitely the original part. The ones I have are significantly shorter.
I figured out how to fix my bearing carrier casting.
We discussed welding and the ups and downs of that. Would it need heat treatment? Would I miss some of the crack and leave it weak?
We'd discussed bonding in a new bushing a little while back, but that left me worried about how thin the remaining cast is in that area. Still big advantages in no heating issues.
I excruciated for a really long time. Today the answer (like a solution, not a Miata) fell into my head.
I'm going to bond a long thin bushing of aluminum - end to end.
Here's a 3d model I made of the casting, with the bushing installed:
The outside diameter is 7/8", which just so happens to match the internal radius of the casting in that area. Seen in a cutaway here:
With this method I'll get a HUGE bond line and the new bushing will distribute way more load to the casting.
Here it is with a horizontal cut line from below:
I'm happy with this. This will work well.
Time to order some adhesive and pick up some aluminum stock in the right size.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Seems pretty robust
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
That ought to work nicely. There looks to be a ton of surface area to bond to...
Will drilling for the tube completely remove the crack? If it doesn't, I'd still worry about the crack spreading. How good are adhesives at preventing that? Can you get the adhesive to penetrate into the crack? Maybe just drilling a relief hole in the end of the crack and filling with adhesive would do the trick. This does look like a good fix.
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Most of that area will be removed by boring out the casting for the sleeve.
My expectation is the crack won't grow because the load will be distributed over a larger area. Though your question is valid and will probably throw me into another three-week funk of worry and hand-wringing. So thanks for that!
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Most of that area will be removed by boring out the casting for the sleeve.
My expectation is the crack won't grow because the load will be distributed over a larger area. Though your question is valid and will probably throw me into another three-week funk of worry and hand-wringing. So thanks for that!
Sorry about that. I'm mostly asking questions out of ignorance, and you certainly know more about this sort of stuff than I. If you grind away most of the crack, I would think the adhesive will stabilize it, especially when you consider the amount of load transferred to other areas.
I bought a Trek mountain bike back in the 90s with a bonded aluminum frame. It's still holding together after 25 years in spite of my 200 lb. brother riding it for several years. Then there's all the Lotus Elise bonded chassis still in service. So I don't doubt the effectiveness of modern adhesives on aluminum.
The crack is u-shape on one side of the boss. It'll probably crumble away when I machine the new pocket. I'll probably just smooth down that whole area really well so that cracks won't want to propagate out of any sharp edges.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Slow_M :
BTW, when you removed your heater box for the dry-sump, did you keep it? Wanna get rid of it?
Found it!
In reply to Slow_M : You've got to fill it with heat before you can use it?!? Terrible design...
Finally got some inspiration to get the differential in and buttoned up. Fit perfectly.
Just need to torque all the bolts and fill it with oil.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
That looks *nice!*
You'll need to log in to post.
