In reply to Slow_M :
Before I bought a bubble flare tool, I used the same tool as I would to do a double flare, I just skipped the second step.
In reply to Slow_M :
Before I bought a bubble flare tool, I used the same tool as I would to do a double flare, I just skipped the second step.
In reply to Slow_M :
Given the amount of trouble I had seating some of the stainless steel lines on my TR6, I wish I had used the CuNiFe material. Once seated, they seem to hold up well based upon my 25 y.o. restoration, but not worth the initial frustration.
Those AN single flares with a ferrule look very secure to me.
JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Slow_M :
Those AN single flares with a ferrule look very secure to me.
Pretty sure they spent several decades on that DC-3 or DC-4.
Another thing about AN fittings, is that there are soft Copper intermediate “gaskets” available, that can help seal a galled mating surface.
A bit of forward movement today. The rear disc kit came with bigger 3/8" studs for the upright/bearing connection. Got the uprights all drilled out and tapped.
I printed out this little fixture to better align the drill-bit/tap. Worked fine, though it was pretty well destroyed by the time I finished.
First one just about finished:
And the other side I did in-place:
Progress!
More this afternoon. I'm at a point right now where I just turned on the radio and started putting things together.
Left back corner:
From the other side too:
Putting in the rear brakes is still going to take a little work. The parking brake calipers need a little material ground off a corner.
The rear discs don't have any retention method beyond the wheel and lug nuts. And the caliper, of course. I'm debating drilling the calipers for flat-head retention screws. The hubs have the threaded hole for it. Thoughts pro/con?
The newly repaired right-side casting in place:
I did a lot of torquing 1/2" bolts to 90 ft-lb. You can see my torque-stripe - if I didn't do that I would 100% forget what I'd done and what wasn't tight yet.
Hard to see, but the fancy CV axles are in. I can, as if by magic, rotate both wheel hubs by rotating the diff input shaft. OOOOOOH!
Still need to do the axle bolts. I didn't have the torque rating handy, so I'll have to look that up and get it later. For reference, the easy way to get the axle in is by removing the big upper pivot bolt from the casting and rotating the assembly down.
Another right-side pic:
Pretty...
I also torqued and striped a bunch of the front end suspension bolts, and installed the front brake flex lines.
If only I could find where I left the rear flex lines. Argh...
Probably won't for a little while still, but this thing is almost a roller again!
Time for a shower and a spiked egg-nog!
That suddenly looks so much more like most of a car! Awesome!
Spot-On!
Disc retention screws are just extra stuff you don't need. It is not like the hub and disc are balanced assemblies that need to remain indexed.
TurnerX19 said:Disc retention screws are just extra stuff you don't need. It is not like the hub and disc are balanced assemblies that need to remain indexed.
Perfect. Exactly what I wanted to know.
Did a little bit of messing and figuring this morning between conference calls. Sort of one-step-back here, but really just figuring exactly how everything needs to go together.
The brake kit - since it's designed for the TR6 - isn't really made to go together seamlessly on the TVR. I wanted to have the brake caliper and parking brake mounted like this:
Turns out the shoulder bolts that mount the parking brake just don't clear the casting at all. I could grind on the casting and maybe make it fit, but I don't want to grind on the casting.
A close-up here. You can see the brake mounting plate isn't even flush to the casting, so I would really need even more clearance:
Option 2: Parking brake at 12'o'clock, and caliper to the front:
Sort of the right idea, but would again need clearancing for the parking brake bolts. Thumbs-down here too.
Third option - the caliper moves to the 12'o'clock spot:
This is looking like the hot ticket. Parking brake access is wide open now. Only real downside is that I'll have to swing the caliper up on one bolt when I go to bleed it. And I'll need to machine myself a brake-disc-thickness special-tool to use in the bleeding process. Not a major problem, just a consideration.
So I think that'll be the way to go.
Back side shot here:
In other news, the blue-loctite didn't do a thing to hold the 3/8" studs in the casting. All of them twisted right out when I went to remove the nylock nuts. I picked up some red-loctite instead.
Instead of doing the brake caliper funny dance to get the bleeder up, could you create some sort of bleeder extension that goes out and up from the caliper with a secondary bleed screw at the end of that? A consideration I suppose would be wheel clearance.
No idea if that makes any sense...
AxeHealey said:Instead of doing the brake caliper funny dance to get the bleeder up, could you create some sort of bleeder extension that goes out and up from the caliper with a secondary bleed screw at the end of that? A consideration I suppose would be wheel clearance.
No idea if that makes any sense...
Does make sense. Interesting idea.
30 seconds of searching shows remote bleeders are a thing with Jag rear brakes.
My worry here would be air getting trapped at the top of the caliper and not bleeding, even with the extended bleed hose.
I did a little more digging on the Wilwood site and found this in their FAQ section:
This would imply that you should unbolt any non-vertical caliper for bleeding - not just horizontally-mounted parts.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Seems like your solution is what the experts suggest so I guess that's the way to go!
Yeah, I don't see any way to avoid swinging the caliper up to bleed it. I have Wilwood front calipers and they bled fine in a nearly vertical position. Don't get discouraged, this is great progress
Did some measuring for a custom driveshaft. Dherr pointed me towards The Driveshaft Shop.
I just sent them an RFQ. Here are the pics I sent them.
Front measurement:
Back end:
And a wide-view showing both ends:
My crazy idea is cutting down an RX-8 carbon driveshaft. Chop it to size, and remove and rebond the end fitting. Pay for balancing.
Pray it doesn't explode and embed 6" long carbon fiber splinters into my scrotum.
...
...
I'll probably go with the custom-made unit.
In other news, here's my progress on rear brake lines:
More this afternoon on the back-end. The levers on the parking brakes didn't line up very well with the cables. You can see the levers are bent to the back, and the twist isn't desirable either.
Here's what they look like on the bench:
Time to apply force:
The milling vise really is way more powerful than my bench vise. Night and day.
Straighter now:
Back in place, and everything works fine:
I torqued down the axle bolts - almost got all the way to 200 ft-lb using the parking brake. Couldn't quite make it, so I put a c-clamp on the disc. Worked fine then.
Test fit of the caliper:
Side-to-side spacing isn't quite right - I'll have to play with that a little.
Looks like tilting the caliper up for bleeding will work out just fine.
That's all for now!
I just realized why I don't like the caliper at the top. Any debris that falls into the pad track area stays there until you remove it. Small stones etc. I wish I had that thought before you committed to this. Given access to a milling machine I would make a new adapter bracket with the calipers located in the ideal spots. I doesn't look that complex.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
What about caliper on the bottom? I could do that.
Or a sheet metal cover over the caliper opening?
I have given a lot of thought to making my own caliper mounts. That remains a strong possibility.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I think the bottom is far superior to the top, but a little more thought is in order. I do not see a way to reliably mount an effective cover.
Looking from above, the max width between the rods of the pad retainer is about 3/8". The gaps on the sides is less than 1/4". So that's the biggest any intruding object could be.
I think I can fashion a little screen that'll mount to the pad retainer and prevent any fod damage.
Seems like it's worth a try. Worst case, reclock the calipers to the bottom later if it doesn't work out.
I was looking at my spare TR6 trailing arms today and thinking they are quite a lot less robust than the TVR hub carriers near the hub.
In reply to JoeTR6 :
Appearances can be deceiving, and casting flaws are a reality for both units. I have seen the Triumph pieces bend in crash mode thus saving the chassis. With luck the TVR will bend the bottom arm in the same scenario. I have not seen such an incident with a TVR to confirm.
Sorry for late arrival to party, but (1) would you gain anything and (2) is it physically possible to swap the caliper mounting plates side to side? So service brake caliper would be behind axle and park brake caliper would be on top?
i'd prefer to see service brake caliper at 3 or 9 and park brake caliper at 12 or 6.
then again, F1 cars have service brake calipers at 6 o'clock
Put it together, take it apart, repeat ad-nauseum...
I took the back end brakes apart to mess with brake location some more.
First, bottom-mount location for the "service brake caliper" (to use Angry's technical term) ain't gonna work:
Pretty much clashes with the casting at every possible location below 90 deg. So that is right out!
Here's a different look at a top-mounted service brake:
This tilts the brakes forward 30 deg from where I had it before:
This would be an easy change - just redrill the hole pattern 30 deg from where it is now. Might require pulling the parking brake cable to get the parking caliper off, but that's not a show-stopper.
I will probably explore a bit further what a custom bracket might look like. That service brake caliper could maybe go down and forward to 60 deg from horizontal. I think full vertical would end up getting the fitting and flex-line tangled in the coil-over.
Getting there...
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