Poor life choices - C4 content

Don't forget to take the gears and relief spring out of the pump before welding/brazing the tube on.

In reply to BrokenYugo:

I'll go further than that. I'm planning to pull the bottom of the pump off & braze it in my vice.

Be sure that heater hose is rated for oil. Not all are.

Pete can you get me a pic of the orignal remote oil cooler, I have several in a box and do not remember which came from the vette,may have some correct hose here and can put it in the Box. will be home 'bout 1:00 pm

Ian F wrote: Be sure that heater hose is rated for oil. Not all are.

I thought the same thing till I looked closer. It uses coolant so his heater hose should be fine.

In reply to GTXVette:

Thanks! I'll email you a couple pics and the p/n.

In reply to Cousin_Eddie:

Correct, the hoses are coolant lines. Chatter on the Vette forums refer to it as an "oil warmer" as much as an oil cooler, though it's stated it can lower oil temps about 5-degrees under hard acceleration, so I'll keep it in the system.

An Oil Warmer.....Verwy Interesting.....Because I use an Oil Cooler w/fan on my tranny I've considerd using that part of the radiator for the engine Oil,But never thought of heating the oil as it is normaly about 100 deg. warmer than water and Im Old and I do Have time for things to Heat up before driving.

In reply to GTXVette:

I just sent you pics of the oil cooler & hoses.

Thank you but good quality water hose is good for water. the carb is a 3310-3 1000. going to look at your pics then off to work, I have the dash out of a 69 Fury Convertable and want to reassemble it today.

Day-47(1-hour):

I only had an hour tonight, mostly spent cleaning & arranging, but I did manage to get ahead a bit.

I actually got both #1 valves removed after this. I took a bit for me to figure out how to use the compressor, after figuring it was severely in need of some oil, but hopefully the remaining ones come out fairly easily.

Cleaning the heads will be a bitch though, as I don't have a container large enough to soak them(and even if I did it would probably take $50 in solvent). So I'll just scrub them down like I did the block.

5 gallon bucket with 2-3 gallons of diesel in it.

Do one end of the head at a time.

Cheap and effective. It takes maybe a day per soak. I did that method for years.

In reply to Cousin_Eddie:

Thanks for the tip!

Holley renew kit 37-754...............Trick kit 37-921..so you will have it monday, clean the T.blades with a piece of Scotch brite and W D 40 and Should be no reason to go Past the Bowls New needles and seats Likely dosn't need Floats but throw them away and use new ones, Buy 2 cans of GOOD carb cleaner not the calf.sissy stuff, spray Every Hole you can find through the tube for pressure follow with air then More W D then more air. Let me know how puttin the Vacuum secondary Diaphram in goes, Lol!!!!!!!! Enjoy.

Now I would also add whats called a whistle to the metering block,and before you get the urge to play with Jets and stuff, I would go DOWN 1 number in front and as much as 2 in the rear for your power level the vacuum seconds make that a good carb for you

In reply to GTXVette:

Just so I understand - I should order both the renew kit and trick kit?

I want to confess that I'm taking notes as I have two Hollys sitting in my living room.

Again Sorry, No just 1, they both have the same basic parts the trick has blue bowel gaskets (not as prone to stick to surface) and other Performance parts and for the life of me I can't remember but its on the holley site. I forgot to look at the rear bowl to see if its a plate or metering block, no need to remove but if you go to smaller size (or bigger) Jets if a plate you need a screwdriver they have that the head looks like something you see in a public toilet to remove the screws. all said other than a cleaning and Blue gaskets the renew kit is fine. this is kinda a don't take it completly apart the first time(it does not need it) look and learn A bit at a time. I will assume you still have a good ear (RPM Rise and Fall)or Tach and a good Vacuum gauge that you can see Idle adjustment. and a timing Light!!!!!!

In reply to GTXVette:

Thanks! I do have a timing light, and I'll be buying or borrowing a vacuum gauge.

Day-48(3.5-hours):

I made a bit of headway today. I finished disassembling the left head this morning.

I noticed there are different seals used for the intake vs. exhaust valves. I ordered the type used on the exhaust only, do I also need the other type for the intake?

Then I installed the front crank seal, and bolted up the timing cover.

I picked up a tub to use as a cleaning tank this afternoon, as well as another gallon of mineral spirits.

And after about 1.5-hours of scrubbing. I'd say it's about 90% clean of grease & grime.

I sprayed it with WD-40 afterward to stop the flash rust.

Tomorrow I'll work on cleaning the valves, and take a wire brush on my drill to the head.

Yes, get those intake seals. They are the best.

What's the casting number on those heads? (should be in the rocker arm area somewhere).

In reply to SkinnyG:

They're 624, which apparently suck and are prone to cracking, though I didn't find any on this head I could see.

I have a set of 426624 heads that I got from a friend who spent h-o-u-r-s bowl-porting them. He wasn't using them any more, so I had them on a small block that my students could rebuild in class.

One kid knurled a guide, but did not ream it afterwards. The valve didn't fit, so he just got a big hammer and pounded it about three-quarters of the way home before it wouldn't move any more.

It took a 15-ton press to remove the now bent valve, and the end of the guide is broken off too. Good times.

Pretty much all Chevy heads are prone to cracking. If there are no cracks (between the valves, or into a spark plug hole) you're probably good to go.

Day-49(3-hours):

I spent an hour in the workshop cleaning all the valves, then started going over the head again - this time with a wire brush on my dremel - while alternately soaking and cleaning valvetrain parts.

So far I'm 1/2-way done with the parts.

And the head is ready for a final wipedown before masking and paint.

I still need to lap the valves, and I'll get the other valve seals ordered tonight, then I can start the reassembly on this head.

In reply to SkinnyG:

Ouch, that sounds like a mess. I've not found any visible cracks on this head. Keeping my fingers crossed on the next one!

Pete can we talk about a set of springs,didn't catch if they came w/new Cam.... and some lighter retainers, nothin' fancy,just , well just because.