Here's the filter showing about what the oil looks like. If I had to guess I'd say an extra 2-4 quarts in the crank case. So now I pop in a new filter and fill with oil and run it for a minute (which it's actually doing very well) and drain again? How many times? I only have one extra filter right now. I'm assuming any cheap oil will work for this particular task. 
tuna55 wrote:mazdeuce wrote: If the block is anything other than scrap it should stay with the car somehow. This morning after I drop the kids off I'm headed to the dealer to chat and give back the loaner. I'm very impressed with it and am going to see if I can have a salesman call me if they get an AMG version in. Double the power, double the drive wheels and better seats and it might be perfect. I'm going to collect the names and cards of my service rep and the tech that did the diagnosis and talk to the tech if they'll let me. Get any contact info they'll give me at MB USA to talk to about it. Be nice because quite frankly they've been great to me so far. Then call the tow truck and get a ride back home. So that's the plan for today.Wait, so you bought an expensive rare version of a Mercedes van which failed spectacularly and has proven to be rather expensive to fix. Your solution is to purchase another expensive rare version of a Mercedes? Sorry to be cynical, but your venturing into "more money than brains" territory.
It's easy to sit on the sidelines and judge when you're not in a similar position. Incredible cars can be worth incredible drama. It's not like he's actually going to drop 60k on the engine. I dropped 11k because of an oil leak one time, yes it was a bummer, but it was well worth it once I got back behind the wheel.
I would use some ATF.
The V8 in my W126 used 9 qts of oil, I cant imagine that one having any less. With that being said, a couple of quarts of coolant is like a drop in a bucket.
I've been quietly following this thread since the beginning, mainly to see what it's like to live with an exotic hand-built V8 German vehicle. That's crazy that the engine failed like that!
When you look at the big picture, it's just a car, and most cars can be fixed. You can fix that thing one way or another, especially if MB USA really wipes their hands clean of it. I vote the get another used engine, toss it in there, and keep the other one bagged on a stand in the Grosh.
Any metal particulate that you can see?
Personally I'd keep changing until the oil resumes some semblance of normal appearance and smell, and then a couple times more than that.
The stuff that came out looked clean (except for the coolant) but I'll cut the filter apart in a bit. It takes 10 quarts to fill it. No filters locally so I'll do two flushes on that filter and order more.
I feel a million times better now that I'm actually doing something, even something as small as this.
Is there any concern about putting coolant back into the oil with each short run? I know you've gotta get the coolant out of the crankcase ASAP but that would drive me nuts turning it on again and again knowing there is a HG leak or whatever.
In reply to RedGT:
Im hoping the coolant was drained....
D'oh
SilverFleet wrote: When you look at the big picture, it's just a car, and most cars can be fixed. You can fix that thing one way or another, especially if MB USA really wipes their hands clean of it. I vote the get another used engine, toss it in there, and keep the other one bagged on a stand in the Grosh.
I agree with this. It is just an engine. There's only so many ways it can work hand built from the finest German parts or not.
If you're really interested in saving it flush it and start a rebuild. Parts are parts and your other threads have shown you have enough ingenuity to make it happen.
Good luck mazdeuce. Seeing the work you've done on The Grosh, I'm sure you'll be able to get it running!
*grabs popcorn for the show*
13 quarts of the original oil/coolant mixture out. Filled, run, draining. Looks much better. Probably should have thought to drain the coolant. Dammit. My assumption is that since I only ran it for 30 seconds or so the coolant can't build pressure and won't force it's way in. In fact, should I be worried about oil entering the coolant passages?
Ah well. I've got dad stuff and husband stuff for the next couple of hours so the engine can drain until it's heart is content. I should have a chance to head outside again after bedtime tonight.
Edit: I want to add that the CEL is off now. I'm pretty sure this is the automotive equivalent of your six year old telling you they feel better when you decide it's time to take them to the doctor. "I'm fine! Not broken! Let's go for a drive!"
I hate to profit from anyones misfortune, but I have to admit that (like others) I am looking forward to reading about how you fix this. I might add that I have total confidence that you can and will fix it - the only unknown is how.
If you decide to go down the swap route then might I humbly suggest that you fit a Daimler-Benz DB 605?
Found this, dunno if it helps
Every high performance car comes with its little problems and the C63 AMG did not escape. Before the new models were released a head bolt issue was discovered in between the 2008 and 2011 models. The design of the head bolts is faulty causing them to fail. The tops corrode off. This leads to a head gasket failure which caught in time can be fixed. If you're under warranty it’s covered. Even if you’re out of warranty there have been cases were Mercedes will pick up a major portion of the cost. Indications of head bolt failure is repetitive low coolant levels, high oil level, from coolant getting into the oil, CEL and finally white exhaust smoke.
Mercedes will refuse to retrofit an engine until the failure occurs. They can check for it by pressurizing the coolant system and letting it sit over night to see if the coolant level has dropped and coolant is present in the oil. If you're out of warranty it's about $5,000. If you don't catch it in time, the engine will hydro lock usually resulting in bent or broken rod(s).
In reply to carknut:
That's pretty much the accepted state of things. Added to that, failure rates don't seem to be very high. This is the second motor that the service manager has seen go like this since the 63 motors came out. The AMG tech said this was his first complete failure though he has seen a few oozing coolant and getting fixed.
I'd second checking the tdc on each piston. Easy, quick, and it'll tell you pretty damn quick if you have a bent rod.
mazdeuce wrote: So now I pop in a new filter and fill with oil and run it for a minute (which it's actually doing very well) and drain again? How many times? I only have one extra filter right now. I'm assuming any cheap oil will work for this particular task.
Damn, I can't believe I didn't suggest draining the coolant, but if you run it with the cap off it shouldn't build pressure.
Am I understanding you correctly that the engine is running well during the re-lining process and you don't have a CEL at the moment? I take those as good signs.
Do you know yet if you can R&R the head bolts/studs without removing the heads? Because that would be cool.
I probably have to pull the heads because the head gaskets are compromised. At least one of them.
The plan right now is to flush the oil one more time and let it sit while I talk to MB and think about things. If I still need to deal with the motor myself after that I'll start by checking for bent rods with the heads on if I can find a good way to do that. The heads will have to come off anyway, but as soon as I pull them the car is immobile. If I need a new motor I'll source one and fix the trouble spots before I pull the current one. If the current one can be fixed I think I still have to pull it to get the heads off to do everything, but I do need to confirm that. I've got a pretty decent flow chart forming in my head, although it's going to read more like a choose your own adventure book.
Choose your own adventure book sounds fun.
In all seriousness though, I think if anyone can fix a blow up AMG it's Mr. Mazduce
AngryCorvair wrote: Do you know yet if you can R&R the head bolts/studs without removing the heads? Because that would be cool.
Seems pretty common for other AMG PRODUCTS for people to R&R head bolts see http://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w204/607759-amg3-2-s-diy-headbolt-adventure.html
They've done it in the C63's without pulling the heads, but this is before catastrophic coolant leakage. I suspect the head gasket currently lacks some degree of integrity, at least on that one side. The R class also has a bit less room to work so it's hard to say before I start pulling pieces off what can or can't be done in place. It's not like there is a huge community of DIY R63 owners.
The AMG tech said if it were him he'd replace the bolts, head gaskets, lifters (another known issue) and the cam chain tensioners. Those are really the three potential failure points on the engine and if those are put right it should last a very long time indeed. And then of course the intake manifold gasket and the doohickey at the back of the intake manifold that cracks and causes vacuum leaks and if the engine comes out then certainly motor mounts. Lots of stuff to think about.
Trade you for a good running E36 ///M
;-)
In reply to Pbw:
If you get to page five, looks like the bolt heads are very poorly designed.
After reading that the AMG doctor suggests a lift I thought, "Get a note to show the wife" like a prescription!
Sounds like yours is already open to whatever will make the job happen though. The other plus to the lift is you can stack cars or lift one out of the way to get floor space back. Heck, I got one years ago and I'm almost to the point I'd lift a car to check tire pressures.
I'm sorry if this has been suggested, but what about sending some of the original oil out to one of the oil analysis companies? I love the car, I tried to get the wife on board with me selling Ridgeline and nabbing one of these. No dice, I'll have to live vicariously through this thread. 
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