Rad and fan installed and wired:
Rad and fan installed and wired:
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Trick of the lens, or is rad inlet at top center pretty much gonna crash the hose into the intake?
Looking so good, can't wait till you be driving this bad mother jammer
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Trick of the lens, or is rad inlet at top center pretty much gonna crash the hose into the intake?
It will mostly clear.
I'm going to use hose couplers, and work my tube-fitting magic to make it clear.
Wideband is threaded in and wires into the cab. Boost gauge is plumbed and hose run into the cab. Harness is tidied and wrapped.
I can't wait for first start!
Trial fit to feel good.
Wow, you really nailed the size - you can see everything quite well. I don't recall seeing the instrument cluster before. Is this custom?
Long time lurker, love your truck and the color. Quick question though, what did you do for the intercooler? Sorry if i missed it. I have a 55.2 I finished up recently and can't seem to fit one up front at all. Just blew my headgaskets too because of the tiny radiator I had to run. Not much room in the bay of trucks of this vintage
Eastpark: I was trial fitting the cluster and the wheel. It's a Classic Instruments cluster. By the time I found ways to restore the original cluster, add the gauges I wanted, convert to electric speedo, it was easier to just order this. I like the more "original" look of the Classic Instruments vs the Dakota Digital.
eplas92: The intercooler is a VS Racing 31x12x3, it came in the "Denmah" kit, I didn't really plan the size, figured I'd make it fit. I cut and boxed a lot of the rad support to fit it, but it does fit without cutting the grill. The transmission oil cooler is mounted behind it (that's what the 1/4" bar is for), and I spaced the rad back 1" to fit the A/C condenser.
Finally decided on where the battery is going to go. For that, we need a mount!
First, in Fusion360:
This will be mounted to the frame rail. My intention with it is simply unbolt the whole bracket, drop it, and remove the battery.
Now cut it out of steel:
I am confident enough that I have the in-cab wiring done, that I wrapped the wiring.
A while back I bought one of these trinkets - freaking awesome for troubleshooting, but ALSO for initial testing of circuits:
My truck came with a later 2-speed wiper/washer switch in the glovebox. I still have the 1-speed motor, but chucked the single-speed knob in the lathe and drilled a 3/16" hole through the center, and I machined a wee 3/16" "button" with a 1/4" shoulder, back drilled to fit the switch pin. Now I have a washer button!
The wipers do work - do they always operate a little "disconnected" from each other? I mean, they do their thing, I was just hoping for more symmetry.
I installed pin-switches for the courtesy lights (and alarm). That was tricky fishing the wire out through the hole. Works, anyway.
Also added a toggle switch for the air ride compressors. I mounted the switch inside the "ashtray" which I altered to house the air ride pressure gauges.
Ran alternator power and fuse panel power lines. Also bought a wack of 1ga wire to go to the battery, now that I've decided where to mount it.
Now I need it back in the air to run the wires underneath.
So much work; so much to do.
i have learned so much from reading this thread and watching your videos.
I meant to powder coat this, but then there was this extra epoxy primer in the gun....
The truck came with a later windshield washer equipped wiper switch in the glove box. Good luck finding the 60-63 knob with a button. So I made one out of the existing knob:
sent you a pm yesterday regarding the circuit tester
Ah. Yes, yes you did. I didn't connect your signed name to your user name.
I picked it up off Amazon ( << link), probably the the cheapest one I could find. I liked it so much I bought another one for work.
It can source voltage, it can sink voltage, and it can measure voltage. Also has a light which can be handy. I find it handy for testing individual circuits before hooking up full battery to everything and letting all the smoke out somewhere.
Taillights are wired, as is a trailer light plug.
Battery mount is set in place near the back of the frame under the bed. Positive cable is done. Need more #2 wire for a decent ground.
Air ride compressors are now hooked up, run through a relay and a pressure switch. Looks like the pressure switch is 200PSI. That should be fun.
Stereo amp wiring is run up to the cab.
Air lines, and stereo amp wire plumbed into cab. Need more DOT hose to plumb the air ride gauges.
Air ride works. Two Viair 400's drain the battery fast. One air leak that I'll need to fix.
I ran -8 from the tank through a bulkhead fitting into the cab, into a log that splits into four 1/4" lines to manual valves, T'd to a gauge and run to each bag. It actually lifts quite satisfactorily. At 200psi in the tank.
Just finished re-reading through this build, truck looks fantastic and your work is stellar!
Manual paddle valves for reliability and simplicity. Modified an -8AN bulkhead fitting to be a bit shallower. The gray is etching primer over the drilled holes. Air is distributed from a 4-into-1 manifold.
Wiring is done.
Stereo is in and working
Cooling system holds water.
I've been over-thinking the engine oil cooler for three years. Today I bent up two little mounting brackets, and once they come out of the powder coating, the cooler will be ready to hang.
I -think- all I need to do is throw in a new battery, pressure test the fuel system, pressurize the oil system, and it should run.
I'm scared spitless.
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