EvanB said:In reply to MrChaos :
I got tired of using my own car for event registration photos so i tried something different.
there is something about a rwd car in a drift with a nice rooster tail that just looks right.
EvanB said:In reply to MrChaos :
I got tired of using my own car for event registration photos so i tried something different.
there is something about a rwd car in a drift with a nice rooster tail that just looks right.
MrChaos said:EvanB said:In reply to MrChaos :
I got tired of using my own car for event registration photos so i tried something different.
there is something about a rwd car in a drift with a nice rooster tail that just looks right.
But it's not a drift in either sense Max grip occurs at relatively high slip angles/ratios on loose surfaces, because while the "local" slip angle/ratio may be what we consider to be normal, the surface is also constantly rolling out from under the tires.. So what you are seeing there is me driving like a weenie and not pushing the car very hard.
Ahem.
What I find interesting is they are still using Miles' 2.5RS photo from the 2013 Nationals. (That is the car that our own Jerry bought and campaigned for a while)
While looking for a full size version of thaty iconic photo, I found a pic of me driving it.
And some Miata.
And some handbrake action.
Not pictured: Me working on my car today, because the power is out and I cannot get in.
So I went to Microcenter and bought a new tuning/diag laptop: HP ProBook 6440B
I like HP professional laptops. They are rugged and have a zillion USB ports and various other outputs.
I have mixed feelings about the HP probook line, but then again I work for the state and lowest bid and all that. the new Probook 450 G6's that we got in are decent.but as overkill as they are I think I would still have a Getac toughbook for tuning, they still come with a serial port.
In reply to MrChaos :
I've been using a refurb 8510p for tuning duties, and later full-time computer duties after my desktop croaked, since 2013-ish. Is what I am using now, actually.
But since it gets umbilicaled to a second monitor and an external hard drive and some other peripherals, it's a pain to use it for tuning anymore. The fact that the battery has a life of about 10 minutes seals the deal. I can get a new battery for $89... or another laptop for $160, and strictly use it for tuning and my Pico scope and laptop based scantools.
The choice was clear. This has actually been a long time coming, but given that I just received another rather significant raise (am now making twice what I was making this time last year...) and there's an event coming up and I have tuning to do... well... let's go ahead and take the plunge.
Replaced that left outer tie rod end that has been loose since 2017. Better late than never, I guess.
Tried to replace the brake pads. Got as far as locating my caliper compressor, removed the caliper from the hanger, compressing the caliper, looking for my spare pad hardware (no dice).... and then discovered that FB and FC calipers are not 100% interchangable. I have an FB caliper on the left and FC on the right. They physically bolt up if you use the appropriate lower slide pin. but as it turns out FC calipers are wider. FB calipers will not fit over FC rotors and new FC pads. D'oh. I was mainly replacing the pads because the caliper piston and outer fingers have worn deep grooves into the backing plate and I think this is causing a weird feel. I swapped the pads inner for outer and called it a day for the brakes.
Made some headway on... that project I was playing with at Evan's. And realized as I was putting things away, that I only have one more night to work on the car, and it is still in pieces and untuned. Cannot work on it Thursday because of a planning meeting that is exactly during the time I get to work in the garage.
As it is, my plan is to go in to work with it on Friday, align it, double check drivetrain angles, and then try to make it to the site by noon-1pmish. I can probably juuuust make it.
Good luck. Looks like MR is going to be pretty awesome. Current national champion, a few past national champions, and some cool cars are all signed up.
Car is back on all four wheels. Front wheel bearings are adjusted, steering column is back in place, trailer is loaded up with the six nominated tires for this event. New laptop is loaded with Tuner Studio, MegaLogViewer, and eight Sabaton albums. (I was ripping The Last Stand while on the conference call.)
Now to do all the laundry and maybe try to sleep.
...steering column is back in?
In reply to Knurled. :
Well at least now i know what to listen to on the trip down tomorrow. All 50 minutes of it.
You can listen to whatever you want. I'm going to be listening to 13B and 9" all the way down. The music in the laptop is for when i'm working tech.
Knurled. said:But it's not a drift in either sense Max grip occurs at relatively high slip angles/ratios on loose surfaces, because while the "local" slip angle/ratio may be what we consider to be normal, the surface is also constantly rolling out from under the tires.. So what you are seeing there is me driving like a weenie and not pushing the car very hard.
Since I'm a bit dim, can you elaborate on this, or point me in the direction of a good resource?
Also, see you at tech! I'll be heading down there this evening with my e30
So, after I got back to the 'cave, I yanked the pumpkin out to see what was going on in there, since the fill plug was full of aluminum shavings. (Non magnetic, at least) The noise from the rear was horrendous!
It's difficult to take a digital photo of something shiny in low light conditions. Anyway, you can make out the old drive side pattern, and see also a new, blued pattern that is running off the inside of the gear. (Technically running in from the inside, since the pinion gear swipes from the inside out)
And for good measure, the coast pattern. As you can see (or not), the pattern now runs deep to the root, and there's that weird scratchy bit in the middle that I'd wanted to try to lap out.
Not going to take it apart until I have a dial indicator to check backlash. It does feel like the pinion bearings are smoked again.
Enable subtitles for this one. Also: This is the first and probably last time I will do subtitles with YouTube's app.
In reply to EvanB :
One of the best photos from the event! Is that the very first corner? I can see us all standing around in grid.
In reply to artur1808 :
I think that is coming out of the sweeper in front of the timing trailer before heading back down hill.
EvanB said:In reply to artur1808 :
I think that is coming out of the sweeper in front of the timing trailer before heading back down hill.
Yes, it is. I think I know which run that was, too.
Think I found my MAF code.
Not sure if I want to replace with another, correct plastic part, or the '04 metal tube.
"Leakage air through throttle plate" is the critical one that determines state of health of the PCV system. It USED to be 4 on this car. It's a unitless figure that the PCM uses as a false air correction. Sure enough, when I smoke tested the system, I saw wisps of smoke from the FU hose that goes to the banjo bolt. May try to repair it instead of replace.
"Air Mass Correction Factor" is, to the best of my inference, a global MAF trim, as opposed to merely being a fuel trim. Ingenious when you are using MAF to control ignition too. I assume it is high because of the turbo outlet pipe leak, since it always sees pressure so it constantly blows air out. Vacuum leaks make this number go low.
Hmm. Shopping list time. Condensor, wiring connectors for the coils, intercooler pipe, timing belt kit, wheel bearing (not noisy, but causes a low pedal after hard rights)... what else?
In reply to EvanB :
seemed like a great event! Too many things were going on that weekend - not fair. couldnt be in 10 places at once :(
After clearing adaptives and a 10 mile loop of a road test, correction factor looks much better. Leakage number is still suboptimal but within tolerance. I'll see what happens after a few more drive cycles.
Also. Could hit 2100hpa pressure in the charge pipe at 2500rpm. That is roughly 18psi of boost in the pre throttle ducting. (Volvo doesn't measure pressure in the manifold)
I have no idea.
Backlash is .011". Coast:
That is what it looked like before, with that ugly "Nike Swoop" pattern.
Drive:
It didn't hang off the inside like that before.
Incidentally you can see the pattern in the unpainted gears too.
Pinion assembly felt smooth as silk. Bearings are not healthy looking, but not particularly worse than when I reset the spacer depth either. And they felt smooth. If anything the carrier bearings feel a little noisy.
Still working on video. Keep falling asleep during the editing process.
Giving up on editing video. Here's my last run in all of its gory. Err, glory. Commentary after the run.
More editing give-up. I wanted to add video from the 2017 event where I first really noticed this weird "binding" feeling in the brakes or something in hard compressions while turning.
The problem didn't really exist after my over-winter front suspension tweaks (new struts, stiffer springs, raised roll center) butit came back.... after I adjusted my struts to full soft after my second run. I made that adjustment trying to soak up some of the rough stuff better. Before second heat, I re-adjusted the struts to their baseline setting and the problem went back to mostly non-existent.
I wish I could figure out how to copy/paste photos. In the process of buying photos from one of the on-site photographers but I don't feel like waiting until that is done before I posted this video. What I could see from those photos is that the suspension is going to full compression and then just sort of staying there. The binding is probably the tire grinding on the inner fender structure - at max compression there is room for a 195/60 street tire, not a chunky 185/65 gravel tire.
So my current plan is to try to acquire another subframe and modify it for an even more radical roll center change, which will require alteration beyond merely redrilling holes. I'd also like to try some 250lb springs if I find any for sale cheap. Really, it'd probably be easiest to yank out the FC subframe and re-install FB parts, but then I'd need to find a steering box that I could splice a quickener into and frankly I don't feel like doing that right now. Finding another subframe to modify is easier.
You'll need to log in to post.