I miss my R53 S as a daily driver. It was really a great car for the 50k miles I drove it. After doing all of this, you should have a really fun car to drive.
I miss my R53 S as a daily driver. It was really a great car for the 50k miles I drove it. After doing all of this, you should have a really fun car to drive.
In reply to JoeTR6:
I still need coilovers and to install the rear R56 Aluminum Control arms. But this will still be a night and day difference. (Hopefully)
Wife has a clubman S (2013)
I love driving that car. I've been avoiding the supercharged cars. SHould I be?
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
I prefer the later supercharged cars 05-06 over the early turbo cars. The later turbo cars are good but out of my price range.
I prefer the supercharged ones due to their rock solid engine construction and more connected feeling while driving. The R56's feel bigger and softer than the R53.
Not to mention the supercharger whine :p.
If you want power easily but in a fragile engine. Than the early R56's with the N14 engine fit the bill. I just don't want to deal with timing chain issues and carbon build up.
So the real question is this. Is the supercharger whine better than the blow off valve turbo goodness?
Also, i'm a beefy guy. The R53 is smaller. could I still fit kids behind me? I know that it just works in the clubman. (6'3" and 300 lbs)
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
You mean car seats? If so than I don't see why not. It's pretty cramped back there especially if someone is behind you. But a car sear should be okay. It's good up front, especially if you get one with no sunroof.
N7Prime wrote: In reply to Ian F: It takes like 15 minutes or less to get into front end service mode. I might aswell do it.
The MFE extenders is the service mode. Removing the whole panel is not. But I suppose it depends on if you are draining the coolant for some other reason - then removing the panel and radiator isn't a big deal.
I agree about the Tritec. It's an overbuilt tank compared to the turbo engines. RMW still manages stupid amounts of power out of the basic engine, although they have been using the turbos lately instead of the supercharger.
In reply to Ian F:
I wanted to get to the front bellhousing bolts easily and access the trans mount and throttlebody with nothing in my way. Plus easier access to move the trans around. I am replacing the expansion tank and hoses to it aswell.
Some guy on minitorque.com reached 640WHP with a built tritec turbo. The trans finally gave out after much abuse.
Having pulled a trans twice with the MFE in place, I can't argue with you there. Some of those bell housing bolts are mofo-tight and a PITA to get a wrench on.
In reply to Ian F: You have to remove the throttlebody to access one of them and remove the air duct so the trans doesn't get caught on it when pulling it out. At least that's what I did. The other upper bolt I needed a flex joint to get to it.
Oh yeah... I know. While I have all of the tools to do the job again, I have a friend who does these all the time and can practically do it with his eyes closed. Whether or not I ever replace a MINI clutch again will depend on how busy I am if/when the time comes.
Installed my reman starter and mounted up the subframe. Also installed the Sneed for Speed Axles and outer balljoints and Megan racing balljoint spacers.
First impressions: Err meh guurd
Traction is the key word today.
Yes, I'll be like everyone else who reviews an LSD after having an open diff. Gushing.
Now keep in mind that I replaced a lot of other stuff to go along with this, including the clutch, rebuild subframe, ect.
The diff: In the wet I have about as much traction with the LSD as I did in the dry with the open diff, keep in mind it's easy to break traction even with the LSD, but now I have to actually "make" it break traction, as with before it would just loose traction on it's own with little effort.
In the dry it's scary how much more traction I have. I have never driven a FWD car with an LSD. Never. So at first it was weird (and a Bit scary :p) because I used the throttle to steer the car under heavy acceleration and through understeer. Now the car rotates fiercely through the corner if you floor it. So now I have to ease up on the throttle and relearn how to drive this car again to get used to the new driving dynamics.
Overall I can clearly say that this Diff was 100% worth it and would recommend it. (What a surprise)
The ACT clutch is still breaking in. Overall I really like it. Direct response, High grab point on the pedal, more direct grab point...ect
The flywheel is noisy but whatever. It's MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH better than the Dual-mass POS with an inch of play in it. Quick shifts, very quick downshifts, easier to downshift to second gear now.
Can't wait to continue with the R56 Rear aluminum arms and some coilovers. I know about the heavy wheels but I want to finish my suspension first. I don't like putting aftermarket wheels on a stock suspension.
So my manifold blew wide open just past the precat. So when I floor it it becomes an open header. But it seals back up when driving calmly. Redneck exhaust valve lol.
I bought Sneed Speed's very last catless exhaust manifold. (No inspections in Florida. Yey.)
I'm going to get it Ceramic coated and get an M7 Header blanket to go with it. Plus some stainless ARP Hardware for the manifold to head.
I might just get a new JCW Backbox and leave the rest of the system unresonated.
This car with an open header is suprisingly quieter than I expected it to be lol.
I'll post pics after work.
These are some updates that took place over a couple of months.
The Header has been ceramic coated and bead blasted and is awaiting installation. Also found out the strap holding the left back box just detached. No rust or damage. Just let go. So now I may have to replace the whole exhaust which I didn't want to do so soon.
I Installed the Header with all new OEM gaskets and ARP Stainless Hardware on the manifold side and two new OEM Nuts on the Exhaust side. Fit seems to be just fine. No notable exhaust leaks noises. BUT I am noticing a loud hissing under acceleration. Keep in mind I'm still running the crappy stock exhaust system from the cat back which I will replace when funds allow. Also notice the stock exhaust strap that just let go in the last pic.
Bump: So I took my car to it's first set of autocross events back to back. I had a blast and won a trophy..........for being the only one in my run group lol. I sucked but had a blast. That's all that mattered. The second day it rained and got to test out that LSD. My driving skills, tires and suspension were the limiting factors. All will be replaced in due time.
However there was a couple of casualties. My WMW (Not a Vibratechnics which I mentioned earlier) Motor mount sheared off causing the flex pipe to rip. My new OEM intercooler boot on the left side also tore open. And my radiator was leaking.....again.
Here are some pics.
So a new Double wall'd flex pipe was welded in. (This fixed the hissing noise)
A new CSF Radiator was sent under warranty. But if this one leaks again then i'll be getting a Mishimoto.
But I'm really happy about the motor mount. Since WMW never saw one of their motor mounts fail, they sent me another one 6 months out of the warranty period if I sent the old one back. They didn't have to do that but I'm shocked that they did. WMW is awesome for doing that.
I also got some DDM Works silicone Intercooler boots since the price was MUCH better than the OEM boots.
I had some idling issues and lack of mid throttle power so I took out both of the MAP sensors and sprayed them with MAF cleaner. MUCH better. The car feels more noticeably alive after doing so.
I went to another AutoX at the BB&T Center in Sunrise. I won first in my class (DSP). I was up against a 2013 FRS. I also went faster than a 2jz Swapped E46 M3. But his rear tires were shot and mine were new.
I had installed Continental ExtremeContact sport tires. They performed great, made all the difference.
I also had purchased an Ultra Racing Front lower bar that attaches under the front crash bar just below the oil pan. So far no issues with pan clearance or ground clearance. I'm not complaining for the price and the good build quality. Some say it might not be worth it to reinforce that area. Oh well. I'll be the guinea pig.
Last but not least.......
Since my old exhaust was falling off I got a new one to replace it. I chose Invidia because it was more affordable than an equivalent Milltek (I found a good deal on one) and because it was the only R53 exhaust to be a 2.36 inch diameter to match my header.
It sounds fine. Quiet when at low rpm but is LOUD when you floor it. Especially since I'm decatted. As I said....it sounds fine. Not really my style but I can't complain for the price. I do love the Pops and Bangs though. :p
Next project is do replace the timing chain, guides, tensioner, and sprockets. My timing chain cover is leaking so I might as well do everything while I'm in there. I'll be installing the Detroit Tuned Cryo treated Chain kit in.
Sounds like fun. I look forward to getting my JCW out of winter storage in a month or so. By then I should have new tires for it and be ready for some autocross in STX.
Great to see this build. I loved mine and put 80K miles on it. I traded it in when the 6 speed broke (under warranty) at 95K miles as I had a 100K warranty on it and figured my luck had run out. Agree with you that the supercharger whine is indeed one of the best features and I am sure the later turbo models do not have the same feel or sound as the S models did in the first generation.
Great car and build, following closely!
I did a trans fluid change With Redline MTF again. Old fluid came out Grey due to the new LSD breaking in. Shifting smoother now. Also added a goldplug Filler plug to help trap any metal deposits and to share the load with the magnet in the Trans.
The car been reliable and fun. Can't complain. Especially since I'm still paying it off lol. I love the ease of driving a Good FWD car with lots of grip and feedback. I installed a Bluetooth Retrofit kit, replaced my front tweeters and speakers with Original Updated Harmon/Kardon units. I took out my leather seats, cleaned and conditioned them. Ect.
I might put a pulley on it while I'm doing my timing chain. But I'm okay with the power currently.
I bought mine with 15K on it and it had the pulley and a Borla exhaust as well as was chipped. Not quite JCW levels of power but quite entertaining. If you are doing the timing chain, why stop there.....
I'm just paranoid on fueling issues if I decide to take it on the track for an extended period of time. If I had NO plans on doing that then I would have gotten it earlier.
In reply to N7Prime :
How many miles did you have on the Wavetrac before you did the fluid change? Mine's got about 5k on it and I'm wondering if it's about time to change the gearbox oil.
BTW, for those who want Big Powaaar, there are turbo conversion kits available for R53s. Apparently there are a few around the UK that make between 300-400bhp.
Redline MTF is an acceptable trans oil for the MINI but you have to change it more frequently. Still... compared to the eye-watering cost of the OE fluid, you could change it yearly and it'll still be cheaper.
If I ever blow the engine in my car and have money to spare, I'll probably go the RMW route. After following MINI's for as long as I have, I trust Jan more than anyone.
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