When looking for the battery drain, I'd start with the wiring to the switch panel and ignition box first. Those were added by a previous owner so the possibility of being incorrect is great.
When looking for the battery drain, I'd start with the wiring to the switch panel and ignition box first. Those were added by a previous owner so the possibility of being incorrect is great.
More sluggish hard fought non-progress over the holiday weekend.
I got a couple packages I'd been waiting on. The first contained a fiberglass ac delete box I ordered off Flea Bay. The price seemed too got to be true...
Here's the ad:
Needless to say it didn't look anything like that when it arrived.
Large terribly repaired flaws on the face of it
And the mounting flange was about as smooth as Trump's turkey neck.
That's supposed to be flat. I contacted the seller who told me to ship it back for a refund and I did. it should arrive there in the next few days. we'll see if I get refunded or not.
My second present to me was this:
A classic Grant Challenger wheel and a quick release wheel so that I can get in and out of the car without looking like a sea lion. Surely this will go much smoother than every other thing I've tried to do so far...
I asked the guys on thirdgen.org for tips and tricks on replacing the ignition switch and they happily told me "pull the wheel, remove the turn signal switch and the ignition switch is right there.
Just a quick tip for you guys. If somebody asks for tips about a job they've never done before and that job requires a specialty tool, that's probably something they'd like to know.
so I left the car torn apart over christmas day since the whole world grinds to a halt, then ran out this morning to get the lock plate removal tool. got the column all torn down to realize the ignition switch isn't in there.
yay! it sits on top of the column, under the dash. I have to drop the column.
slotted the intricate turn signal assembly back into place on the third try and shrugged. At least I can mount up my new wheel and have something to show for this weekend's work.
a quick test fit of the splined hub showed interference with the horn plate ground protrusion thing...
The horn will be relocated to a push button on the dash so I'm not worried about it. I'll just saw that off flush and no problem.
Got everything back together, and the hub bolted in place. wheel is bolted up, now to lock it into place. Victo... oh. berkeley.
the inner hub is too far down the shaft, and the wheel's hub won't lock into place over it.
OK... maybe I'm stupid and need to install the hub as one piece than bolt the wheel to it. I'm such a dunce.
now to get that splined adapter off the column without damaging it. I've actually got something for this:
ok, slap the hub back together bolt it in place, bolt the wheel on and victory!
Installed... wait. how am I supposed to get this off in race gloves? I can't even get my bare fingers back there.
So now the wheel is installed but it won't release quickly, or at all. the whole thing is wedged in place against the wheel lock plate. So now it's basically a standard wheel adapter except it costs 5 times as much and my horn doesn't work.
So much for a bolt on guaranteed fit. I email Grant and they tell me that I'll need to remove my turn signal switch assembly for a proper fit. berkeley that. CAM requires working turn signals so I'm pretty much hosed.
Tomorrow morning I'll be running up to my local oreallys to grab a standard adapter, but since I sawed of the horn ground thing... I still don't get a horn.
As a final berkeley you, while carrying my crap back up to the apartment I dropped the quick release hub, damaging the lip of it just enough that I can't return it.
Merry berkeleying christmas...
Sorry to hear about the run of bad luck.... I have those days but usually don't bat 0.
What is the special tool? I had an 84 chevy pickup non tilt non-column shift steering column I took apart a few times many years ago and never used a specialty tool. I do remember pushing the locking plate really really hard and painfully.
In reply to jfryjfry:
It's this
It pretty much does what you describe. You screw the shaft onto the steering column and turn the wing nut to push down the locking plate. As far as I know it's the only thing that tool does, good thing it's relatively cheap (around $10).
The luck continues. I made the run up to the auto parts store this morning bought an adapter, drove home and tried to install my wheel. turns out the package had been opened at the store and somebody had stolen the actual adapter out of it. It was just the horn parts.
fortunately the guys at the store know me and refunded it without much hassle, but I had to drive quite a ways the get one from another store. by the time I got back home it was pissing cold rain, so no more progress today,
We'll try again tomorrow.
In reply to AClockworkGarage:
I wish you were closer - we could commiserate in the wonders of our 80's GM vehicles. 
In reply to petegossett:
I don't know if that's a good idea man. Yours won't start, mine won't shut off. They'd probably just cancel each other out leaving us both 80's-GM-less.
What if you made the lip on the QR bigger? It looks like you have enough clearance to fit a piece of 1/8" Al plate on the back side of the lip.
My dad bought an IROC new when I was a kid, unfortunately he wrapped it around a tree before I was old enough to see over the dash. 
Would a quick release like this work for the wheel? It has a button on the side instead of the ring you pull from behind
I hate when simple stuff like this becomes a huge pain in the ass project.
The weather has not been co-operating my knees cry every time I have to work on this thing... I've got the new ignition module "installed" there's one screw I just can't get in place and it's really irritating, but she's almost back together.
one screw.
In there... at the back.
I'll trade you sexual favours if you can get that screw in because I sure can't.
A craigslist search scored me a weird thermostat housing and an aluminum water pump for $60
I'll need to lose the fill cap and replace it with a block off plate to clear the future strut tower bar.
the reason I need this weird hunk of aluminum, the sensor port for the electric fan controller.
Keep fighting the good fight, it'll be worth it when you're done!
I really think you should shut off your car off when you're working on the electricals. Or at least consider letting it warm up a bit more before you rev it to 7-grand...
I've got to keep the oil pressure up somehow...
Now that you mention it, it looks like the oil pressure needle is holding the RPM needle up 
This car reminds me of a time I was working start at an autocross. A guy in a super rumbly third gen pulls up to the line for his third run and I yell, "That's such a cool car!" He says "really? I hate it."
mazdeuce wrote: I yell, "That's such a cool car!" He says "really? I hate it."
Isn't that all of us though?
I've injured my neck at work so I've been out for a few weeks. I'm going to try going in tomorrow, but I'm not 100%. The car has just been sitting this whole time. I have been gathering parts though. Here's the goodies:
the shifter handle has a 12v switch I plan to use to activate the 2 step. I'd like to wire it into a line lock as well to create a poor man's launch control, but that is for another time. The "fighter jet" covered toggle switch will be wired in line to keep me from activating it by accident, and also because every car needs a mystery button.
I'm also considering a hidden toggle switch to activate just the 2-step as a theft deterrent. Nobody is going to want to joyride a car that won't rev past 2500...
Hidden switch to ignition so they never get a chance to try to rev it past 2500
The neck is still hurting but I made another attempt to get that screw in again. Spent an hour on it. A literal hour. 60 minutes. didn't get it.
I needed a victory so I popped under the hood to move some stuff around. Focused on the plug wires.
Before:
After:
Small victories...
Not much to report today. Fought with that screw again...
Might have to pull the whole column out and drop it on my bench to get everything set. I just can't seem to get it lined up.
But I've got 6 weeks left until the first race. I need to be making progress. Today I got the cage padded up.
I've also picked up a piece of PVC pipe to mock up a spacer for the quick release steering wheel hub. If I can space it enough to clear the turn signal assembly, but little enough to still have threads to bolt it on, I'll have have a steel spacer made.
Don't worry. I won't drive the car with a plastic wheel spacer...
If you ever decide to use a different aircleaner, hold on to that dual snorkel unit. Its worth some money to the third gen crowd.
In reply to Gearheadotaku:
I wish I still had the rest of it. P.O. removed the diaphrams and hoses, and the ducting that goes to the cowl.
I did find a repro-decal for it, so it might get a bath in some evaporust and a fresh coat of paint.
Finally some 'good' news.
I got home from work today and noticed my neighbor wasn't home. That means she wasn't parked next to me and I could open my door all the way. Nice...
I had pre cut a few spacers out of the PVC and quickly test fit a few. the 1/4 inch one fit well enough that I could install and remove the wheel and I still had about 75% spline engagement. the nut also had thread showing on the top of it. I think It'll work.
I also crawled under the dash for the thousandth time. I pulled the other two screws out and dropped the ignition switch down to where I could see it. The hole on the new switch that I have literally spent hours trying to get s screw into is slightly too small and isn't threaded.
I'm not sure wether to be angry that I wasted a month fighting with this or thrilled that I now know how to fix it.
Stopping by the hardware store tomorrow after work to get a small self tapping screw.
Oh... I also got the license for the Camaro in the mail today.
In reply to AClockworkGarage:
That's awesome news! The stickers rock too. 
If it wasn't for bad luck...
Back in December I ordered a single 17x9 wheel to test fit. I wanted to be certain I could fit 275 under each corner before buying a full set. The internet told me both "yes absolutely" and "not a chance" I figured the best way to be sure is to just buy one and try it.
Then I got a notice. That wheel is back ordered until 01/07. until 02/15, until 03/05, until 03/30...
I get it. I don't get the wheels I want. I settled for a different less attractive wheel, the Cragar soft 8, called Jegs and canceled my original order and set up the new one.
That was Friday last. "you'll have it by Tuesday" they said.
Tuesday came and went.
I called them this morning to figure out what was going on, as I did not receive a tracking number. I was told it was delivered already.
They shipped it to my old address in FL.
For those of you playing at home I moved to Washington State 2 years ago. I've ordered over a dozen time at this address since then. I'm not sure if I'm more confused or angry at this point.
This is what it's like to be me. and people wonder why I'm a pessimist.
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