I know you have this solved already, but there is a fairly easy way to get outer bearing races put of their bores.
If you have a welder...
Just run a bead of weld on the inside diameter of the race. It will shrink when it cools and usually falls right out with a couple of taps of a soft hammer.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
that's brilliant! I'll have to remember that next time. I have a big ol stick welder
we should w2w this thing...
In reply to apexanimal :
eventually. I'd like to cage it and go nuts..... but that part will be a while. The closest this will get for a few years will be HPDE's and One Lap. Hoping it holds together long enough, I'm no Seth.
So... this weekends journey: Cleaning. Like, serious, get down and dirty no longer need a tetanus shot just looking at it cleaning. Hatch area cleaned up nice. Rear seats... lets just say that the first few coats of the leather protectant soaked in before I could even get a rag on it. No lie. Those things were so dry they made the Mohave look like Atlantis. 4 hours spent just on the interior and it STILL needs a few more coats. The outside got washed and a coat or two of cleaner wax to help some of the roughness. No livery for me this year, running out of time. Car not takes gas like a normal car. The EPA may hate me but my hands love me for not making 20+ minute fill ups. Checked the alignment, it has 1/8" toe in, far from ideal but the tie rods are as rusty as the old brakes, so that stays until post challenge when it'll get all new tie rods (inner and outer). Wife sewed the drivers seat closed. You cant even tell there was a tear. Posters getting made currently for presentation. I have a special sticker coming for the bumper. This one is special.
3 days! I am so excited I don't know if I'll even sleep for the next 3 days.This car is full on 'Pod. Daily driver, road trip machine. I'm really looking forward to the 12 hour drive Weds night.... yes I'm a little messed up.
In reply to bobzilla :
I'm eager to see you and this car in Gainesville!
In reply to John Welsh :
You made me feel all warm and fuzzy... unlike todays weather.
All I have time for right now is 1868 miles, no failures, didn't DFL. Phase 2 coming soon.
bobzilla said:All I have time for right now is 1868 miles, no failures, didn't DFL. Phase 2 coming soon.
well, at 1/2 a OneLap distance, I'd say that's an excellent shakedown test
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
there is an oil seep somewhere. After 3 hours on the road at 80mph you can smell it but I can't see it. It used 1/2 quart of oil roundtrip and at lunch I'm filling up to see total MPG.
Overall I'm pleased. NOT pleased with our cell service right now...
Filled up yesterday. 1891 miles, total of 77.5 gallons of fuel and a half quart of oil. Seats are comfy, to a point. For 12 hour stints there isn't enough padding on the bottom but the upper and lower bolsters make napping in the passenger seat quite easy as they actually hold you in place.
The silencers with steel wool packing did the trick (even if they do sound like poo outside). There is a lot more room inside than I initially thought. Should have plenty of room for One Lap. Small oil leak right onto the rear header. ITs stinky but not a huge problem yet.... will get fixed as the vents suck that straight into the cabin. But the AC worked great in the humid 85* days last week.
As far as competing, its about what I expected. Tires were terrible, but they were round and black and didn't blow up. Suspension is hosed because 215k miles. So to finish not DFL and respectably in the Gastropods was good in my book.
Now... Phase II begins. This phase doesn't care (so much) about the budget and is about making it reliable and durable for 4k miles, 8 tracks and keeping us sane. So with that said... onto the next phase.
Heres's the list of "to do" before May:
XG350 calipers, rotors, pads
braided brake hoses to replace the 17 year old 215k mile versions and fresh fluid (again)
Get the exhaust hangers tight so it doesn't keep coming loose and banging into things.
Replace the remaining wheel bearings. (both rear and the right front)
Brake ducting from the fog light housings.
Reinstall the coilovers and wheels/tires.
Those are must do's. This is the "Might do" list:
Possibly longer studs and different nuts that don't require a special socket.
Fix the rust on the left rear wheel well.
remove headliner and sunroof for extra clearance for helmeted tall persons.
repaint the rear bumper or something vinyl
ok, Got to add front and rear engine mounts. I believe the drag strip killed what was left of these.
bobzilla said:ok, Got to add front and rear engine mounts. I believe the drag strip killed what was left of these.
Window Weld? Or going with new OE rubber?
In reply to kevinatfms :
oe rubber, with a poly insert for the rear. These were.... umm... iffy before drag launches with enough wheel hop to not only turn on the wipers (two clicks down, not one) but pop the positive cable loose. Rubber wise I think the only other thing I need to change are the rear sway bar mounts. Those 19mm bushings are also toast. They rattle now. I mean, its only 17 years old (next week) with 215k miles. Geesh... they don't make them like they used to.
Also found the oil leak. Well... seep. It's weeping out the center bolt on the rear cam cover.... directly onto the center header pipe. That explains why it doesn't always smell but when it does its strong! It's getting sucked straight into the hvac.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
oe rubber, with a poly insert for the rear. These were.... umm... iffy before drag launches with enough wheel hop to not only turn on the wipers (two clicks down, not one) but pop the positive cable loose. Rubber wise I think the only other thing I need to change are the rear sway bar mounts. Those 19mm bushings are also toast. They rattle now. I mean, its only 17 years old (next week) with 215k miles. Geesh... they don't make them like they used to.
Also found the oil leak. Well... seep. It's weeping out the center bolt on the rear cam cover.... directly onto the center header pipe. That explains why it doesn't always smell but when it does its strong! It's getting sucked straight into the hvac.
PM me. I have 2 of the Tiburon motor mount inserts from Energy Suspension. I already poly welded our mounts so these will just get thrown away. I also have the 19mm energy suspension sway bushings if you want them. Another item that will get trashed or go on a shelf for years. Let me know.
In reply to kevinatfms :
message inbound.
Back to current... it does not like the cold. She's a little rough on start up below 30*F. Occasionally she'll actually not start and will require a foot to floor on the accelerator to turn off the injectors because it flooded. So obviously the fuel trim is a little rich for cold starting.
Oil leak is still there. I think I need another new gasket. I may have pinched this one. Got to pull the intake back off again to pull the cam cover to see.
New tie rods on the drivers side and finally got toe set up front. Only took too long. Adjuster nut seized, had to sawzall the inner to use the tool, then had to put the tool in the bench grinder to open it up enough to fit my inners. At least I now have another custom tool! Drives much better but I do feel the tug of the diff on the slicker pavement. IT's.... different.
Just cried a little again... XG calipers/pads/rotors and Tib braided brake lines ordered. Saved $100 overlast week's price, still spent almost $300.
Finally fixed the busted positive terminal. This car is weird with three tabs bolted to a plate that is on the terminal. Just odd. While I was there I changed out the negative side for a real sized cable. And while I was at that I finally shortened the intake to make it fit better. No longer touches the master cylinder cap.
down side to today's work was seeing just how bad the front and rear mounts are and that I can move the engine a lot by hand. So time to order some more stuff!
All hail the parts canon! May it's aim be true, even if most of the damage is [inflicted on] our wallets.
and I caved.... hood support struts are on their way too. I am tired of forgetting to grab the vise grips every time I open the hood.
CRAP. it's 20* outside and the heat decides to work when it wants to. No heat, radiator filled, cold air. Hit large pothole and instant heat! Next large pothole it goes away. I don't like old cars anymore.
looky! Parts cannon hit the mark
bobzilla said:CRAP. it's 20* outside and the heat decides to work when it wants to. No heat, radiator filled, cold air. Hit large pothole and instant heat! Next large pothole it goes away. I don't like old cars anymore.
Apparently one should open the cap and not look at the overflow when checking coolant level. Overflow at the "hot" mark, but there's no hose in the cap to actually pull it back INTO the radiator. Radiator was about 2-3 qts low. So there's a leak, got to find and fix that and the little oil leaks. The good news is it took several months and over 4k miles to lose 2-3 qts of coolant so it's not a massive leak, but its getting worse as I can now smell it when I pull into the garage
In reply to bobzilla :
Somewhere in the heater circuit maybe, since it’s worse now that it’s cold out?
Last night it showed itself. Started overheating on hte way home with heat last 3 miles. Got home, popped the hood and coolant everywhere. I can see a piece of gasket pushed out on the top of hte crossover/t-stat housing, upper/lower hoses. Looks like that may be the spot. I'm going to pull off the original on the old motor to see what I need for the engine in the car.
Good news: Found the leak. Bad news: I got to fix it.
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