That thing is beautiful. Very fitting for the rest of the truck.
That thing is beautiful. Very fitting for the rest of the truck.
Sweet!
maschinenbau said:Metal version has arrived. 1/2" 6061 lasercut aluminum from sendcutsend. I added the counterbores and it all seems to fit nicely. Now I just have to grind clearance for the coolant neck and port match to the gaskets.
I took the vacuum and fuel rails off I can make a few modifications and clean the gunk out of the throttles.
What have you done? This is amazing!
All in, how much do you have in that plate (including prototypes)?
This IS AWESOME!
Absolutely gorgeous. Keep doing these things you do.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
About $250 between the two acrylic prototypes, rubber cork throttle body gaskets, aluminum final version, and McMaster special hardware. I compromised early on to make it from thin 1/2" do it could be laser cut cheaply vs going thicker and needing it to be machined.
The downside is a more rapid transition between the port shapes, which has a performance drawback that I probably won't notice. I port matched by hand along with clearancing the coolant neck.
Clearance is tight, even to the TPS, but it all fits!
Nicely done!
Machinenebau, Just chiming in to say that I really like the ITB. Nice work.
Also, just noticed your thread has broken into the top ten !
For any other readers who are enjoying this build, hit the "Vote Up" button (near the top of this page) and let's see if we can get it further up the list.
Woot! That's exciting. Glad everyone is enjoying this, almost as much as I am.
As an update, the engine is almost fully wired, except for MAP and IAC. I have to mod the vacuum tube to adapt those sensors. Well, I don't HAVE to, but it's necessary to execute my very specific vision for it.
Also a sneak peak of what's to come:
A few mechanical bits then on to wiring and megasquirt. I cut apart the stock Toyota throttle body to harvest its bushing and cable pulley. I was able to use a threaded hole on the engine mount directly below the ITB linkage to mount the cable pulley. I also incorporated a MAP sensor mount to this bracket. You can see the hose tee behind the throttle cable, which is also manifold pressure reference for the fuel regulator. It all hides nice and tidy below the ITBs, keeping the uncovered engine clean.
I'm not a big fan of this setup, because the cross-plane pivot axes mean as you approach WOT the pedal effort drastically increases. I have a few revised pivoting linkages in head, but this will get me running again.
I also adapted a Ford 2-wire idle air control valve to the BMW vacuum rail. Sendcutsend laser cut this piece from 1/4" 304SS and I welded it onto the tube. I also welded a 3/8 NPT bung into the original IACV port mainly so I can plug it, but also I can add a boost gauge later.
The u-turn tube is for the MAP and fuel regulator. I'm also experimenting with ITB intak trumpets.
The whole engine is wired up and ready to run on the Microsquirt. Recall I am using the relatively new Amp'd Microsquirt. This is basically the original DIYAutoTune Microsquirt but with some nice extra features. Injector drivers had their current limits increased and it repurposes 2 I/O's as configurable ignition outputs with pullup resistor included, bringing the total ignition output up to a whopping 4 lol. But this means for an inline 6 I can run wasted spark using 3 outputs. It still only has 2 injector outputs though, but you get what you pay for.
Since I'm using bootleg R35 GTR coilpacks (370Z), I was able to buy new connector and pin kits that fit basically every Nissan in the past 15 years.
I am kinda fumbling my way through this but it's going well.
One thing I learned right off the bat was the fuel pump relay was wired wrong. The Microsquirt grounds the relay, not provide the voltage. Oops. It also turns out I used the wrong configurable I/O as my 3rd ignition output. It comes standard with IGN1 and IGN2, which are Spark A and Spark B. The optional WLED and ALED channels can be switched to ignition. I wired up ALED as my Spark C, but MS firmware automatically assigned WLED as Spark C when set up for a 6 cylinder wasted spark. Oops. I also grouped my coils completely wrong based on firing order, with Cyl 1 and 2 on Spark A, 3 and 4 on Spark B, etc. Since this inline 6's firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, it should be Spark A 1-6, Spark B 2-5, Spark C 3-4. Another oops.
Then I took a look my crank and cam logger. The light blue is my crank single. I set this up expecting a 12 tooth crank and a single tooth cam trigger off the distributor, since it's a non-VVTi non-turbo 2JZ-GE. Turns out my engine has a 36-2 crank sensor (36 teeth, missing 2 teeth), which is associated with later VVTi engines. Though the signal is super clean, and it means I can delete the distributor altogether, it actually worries me. If I have a VVTi block, that means I have the weak rods. The donor car was a 1997 SC300, which should have come with the non-VVTi bottom end, but it was clapt out, abused, manual swapped, and possibly on a swapped engine too. Could it be someone in the past put a non-VVTi head on a VVTi block just to get a beater SC300 on the road? So now I'm worried I have the "weak" 2JZ after all this effort. The best way to tell is looking at the valve reliefs on the pistons, so I'm going to boroscope as soon as possible. It's not a huge deal if it turns out to be a VVTi motor, especially since any turbo goals I have are very modest, but it would be somewhat disappointing.
Either way, after I fix all those "oops" above, I should be running soon with ITB's!
A lot of nice work done here!
All fixed, fired right up!
Video - 2JZ with ITB's running on Microsquirt
Also the doctor says it's a non-VVTi bottom end.
Still a lot to learn with megasquirt, but this is going quicker than I expected!
maschinenbau said:All fixed, fired right up!
Video - 2JZ with ITB's running on Microsquirt
Also the doctor says it's a non-VVTi bottom end.
Still a lot to learn with megasquirt, but this is going quicker than I expected!
Yeah, no joke! Nice work, kid!
Nice! Sounds great too!
Sounds nasty! Please doe some nasty polished trumpets on those beautiful ITB's!
In reply to 84FSP :
Best I can do for now is spray-painted 3D prints. I'm also looking into Uni foam filters.
maschinenbau said:In reply to 84FSP :
Best I can do for now is spray-painted 3D prints. I'm also looking into Uni foam filters.
Soooo hawt. I need some new pants. These ones got very tight and some spots on them.
They look great!
wvumtnbkr said:maschinenbau said:In reply to 84FSP :
Best I can do for now is spray-painted 3D prints. I'm also looking into Uni foam filters.
Soooo hawt. I need some new pants. These ones got very tight and some spots on them.
Ooooh Daddy likes
These have a nice lip, and I was able to knock some off a couple dozen using make-an-offer. Adjust stack length as desired...
How's the map signal?
Since you are doing 3d printed parts for now, do you want some shapes that are optimized for that intake configuration? I have shape defined that gives real my good flow for open trumpets. Basically a full return bell that converter and accelerates the flow all the way to the ITB interface. What diameter is the ID at the ITB?
In reply to stafford1500 :
Could you share?
In reply to ralleah :
MAP seems pretty stable! I've gotten it to start, warm up, and idle very nicely using speed density. At idle I had it breathing almost 100% through the IACV filter. I could put my hand over the trumpets and not feel any vacuum. I'm experimenting with a tiny bit of throttle opening at rest using the adjustable stops, but I need to print a flowmeter adapter to balance them correctly, just like carb. I have an STE SK type flowmeter from messing with 4-carb Honda bikes.
Here's some details on the trumpets. ID is 50mm to match the throttles and rubber couper, OD at base is 60mm, and spacing is 91mm. Length was picked arbitrarily.
I also ordered a Uni foam filter just to test-fit. The flow will likely not be as good, but would be much safer for longer trips given the open-wheel hood-less nature of the car. Left turns aim the front left tire directly at the intakes...
Here's what they look like all completed. I spec'd the wire mesh for a % open area of the half-sphere surface area to be the same as the open intake area.
Cleeeeean!!!
Fantastic!
Yupididit, I will post an image of the profile that can be scaled/stretched/modeled for your application. With more info I can update my model and send you a file for slicing/printing.
You'll need to log in to post.
