The wheels are 18x11 front and 18x13 rear. Tires are 315 and 335. They are shockingly wide :)
i just realized that I’ve had this car nearly 6 months and have not put a tank of gas through it.
But that day is coming! I initially took the car off the road to have the heads done as they have a reputation for dropping valves I was talked into doing a Cam at the same time.
to do that, I needed to remove the steering rack (that sits right in front of the balancer) or drop the cradle I decided to drop the front cradle because it would let me possibly access the clutch slave bleeder and add a remote bleeder because the stock bleeder is virtually if not literally impossible to access.
so what I’d read people doing is lowering the motor and torque tube once the front cradle is lowered to get some room between the bellhousing and the body and, with a lot of work and custom tools somehow threading the remote bleeder in.
well, then my friend got me connected with Centerforce clutches and they became a sponsor. So, in anticipation of the clutch, I just pulled the motor. Most guys pull the rear cradle with the gearbox trans and torque tube to do a clutch. But since the heads were off, I could reach the bellhousing bolts pretty easily Plus it would make the cam change easier.
Nothing super exotic here which makes these things so much easier to work on. This is before I replaced the cam. And of course the guide. And the lifters. And the.... well, I did buy a new cam chain which was supposed to be the bee’s knees. At $150 it had better be. But it wasn’t. It was considerably looser than my 90k mike chain. So I decided to just run the old one which was a pretty snug fit. Will I regret it? Probably :)
The old balancer was pretty nasty looking - peeling paint and rusty. Which doesn’t bother me but I read about these things wobbling and otherwise failing so I figured it is a perfect time to replace. I opted for a powerbond unit that is sfi rated and was considerably cheaper than the super nice ATI unit.
To install, I took the old balancer bolt (which is a one-time use tty bolt) and cut the head off. I cut the head off of another high strength bolt and welded the two together to make a long stud that I threaded into the crank and used a nut and washers to push the balancer on.
On the ls7’s there is no keyway on the crank; it is a tight friction fit that keeps it located but they're known to slip. So you can pin them by drilling a hole between the crank and balancer and putting a metal pin in there. I got a kit from an online seller in exchange for letting him know if his ls3 kit would work on the ls7. It would but the supplies bolt was too short. So I used the balancer install stud I made to hold the jig in place and drilled the hole through the keyway slot that the balancer had.
You have to seal up the keyway so oil doesn’t get out but it seemed like a good place to put it. I second guessed myself after I wondered if the balancer was balanced assuming the keyway was empty and by putting the pin in maybe I threw off the balance. But we shall see.
Here it is before pinning
One big issue is the oil starvation these motors can have with high-g turns. I hope to generate enough loads to run the risk so I have had the oil tank enlarged to hold appx 3 more quarts and added a baffle to the tank to help with aeration and starvation. This was the extent of my plans for oil control. Until I realized I was pulling the motor.
And up popped yet another “while I’m in there.” This involved dropping the oil pan and fitting a very nice Improved Racing baffle. I was advised that their crank scraper and windage tray were also good ideas for oil control although after I got it all in I must say that the factory windage tray would likely plenty suffice for me. I don’t care about the small power gain from the crank scraper and can’t see it making much of a difference with the starvation issue.
But their parts are beautiful works of art. I had to take a pic of them while cleaning them prior to install
Of course, I did these before I did the balancer so this is a little out of order
I put a little bend on the end to help oil coming down the front wall get into the pickup area less encumbered.
About this time, I had a 6-week break while waiting for the clutch. I decided to buy a cheap zr1 replica splitter and side skirt kit. I must say that this inexpensive piece makes it look so much better. Soon I hope to make a properly supported splitter/undertray. Likely out of plywood but we shall see.
Finally, after tracking down the guy who this was mistakingly sent to and just paying fed ex myself to go get it, I was elated to get not only a beautiful new clutch but an even more beautiful aluminum flywheel from centerforce!
I was finally able to get the motor in and it only took 45 minutes to get the input shaft to find it’s home. Complicating things is the fact that the vette has such a long nose that my hoist is about 3” too short on reach so the motor is slightly pulled away from the bellhousing instead of being pushed in.
but contrasting that is the best $30 I’ve spent in a long time and that was the engine leveler I got from homedepot. It is so easy to adjust the angle of the motor....
This thing is so tough to work on compared to my wife’s 72 bronco that we just stripped down for paint..... but now that stuff is starting to go on, the motivation is returning. And it had better! I’m signed up for the first event in it on June 3 and we have no shortage of family plans before then.....