https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/376398686698705
Stampie (FS) said:Is anyone nearby cause I can't think of anything better than a SBC bugeye.
I'm nearby..
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
Think you could check it out? Angry might be closer but I'd like to know if it's a rust bucket and if the missing parts are included.
I'll be back tonight and could maybe make it out there tomorrow or one night this week. I'm running it by my wife too to see how she responds. You may be more serious than I am.
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
Ok in the meantime I'll see if Angry will pull the peg out long enough to respond to me. If you want it I'll defer to you being all local and you saw it before me.
Somebody please buy it and let me take a set of molds off it. I'll make a slightly thicker splash mold so future Vintage racers and autocrossers can have a small cheap body.
Sounds good. That way even if the tub itself is rust history with the new challenge rules allowing tube frames. You would have a potent challenge car.
In reply to frenchyd :
If the tub is rusty then I'll probably pass. Life is too short to work on rusty british cars.
Rusty is just another word for messy. And if that's all it was I agree with you.
a Bugeye is a bit of an exception. That and a series 1 Jaguar XKE Roadster.
Even a rusty one can be smoothed out, given a skim coat of bondo. Then turned into a pattern. A chopper gun will make a splash mold in an hour or less. Feel the fiberglass as it cures and as soon as it starts getting leathery use a new blade on a utility knife to trim it. Trimming is done so fast with no dust and as it's slightly pliable, stuffs into a garbage bag easily for disposal.
Let it cure overnight and wax the heck out of it with furniture wax. Spray a release agent My favorite is PVA because it is water soliable. Now using fiberglass cloth or Carbon fiber cloth cut out the pieces and lay them out so your gloves hands can pick one up without getting all of them. Roll resin with a paint roller into the mold and lay out the pieces just as you cut and stacked them. Decide how many layers you need and have them ready to go. While the resin is still wet take a bondo squeegee and squeegee out the excess resin. Resin just holds things together. The strength is in the fiberglass or carbon fiber.
Fibberglass should be half the weight of steel and carbon fiber will be 1/2 the weight of fiberglass while being stronger.
Yes an auto clave and vacuum bagging will save a few more ounces. But cost the earth. Then there are tricks like using a layer of foam to add depth without adding weight the deeper the piece the more ridged it is and the more resilient
In reply to frenchyd :
Thin wall square tubing can be used to build a light frame. The Jaguar XKE used a paper thin square tube frame to hold that 730 pound cast iron block engine plus accessories and transmission etc. and when crash tested for the government exceeded requirements. ( there is a video of them doing it on line). proven since 1954 until production stopped in 1974.
The whole front subframe weighed only 22 pounds!
A whole frame and rollcage for a Bug eye Sprite might weigh under 100 pounds. The body in fiberglass less than that. Add suspension. And your V8 ? You're down near the weight of a lotus 7.
In reply to frenchyd :
So you want me to pay $1500 for a plug and a SBC? I ain't all rich Jaguar fancy pants.
Why haven't one of you bought this yet.. I don't need more cars and this is speaking to me.
I have a fair amount of stock MG midget suspension parts that someone could wrestle* from me if needed to make this make a challenge appearance.
*Wrestling involves beer. The cheap kind. None of that $20/4pk stuff other challengers drink.
Does not look rusty from here. Also it has been used since completion, so there is hope that it is usable if running. I do not see a bonnet, so that could be a thing if the budget only allows for like $500 to spend, not like you get any recoup on this one
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